Dru

DDog why go all the way to Norway when the fjords in BC are just as deep if not deeper, and have loads of 3000+ foot walls. Here is a hint, the SW face of Mt Albert has 4500 feet of vertical face above 3000 feet of slabs. This is maybe the steepest face anywhere in Bc Coast, the topo map shows 4 500 foot contour lines with every single line in between hidden, in the middle of the wall.... NTS map 92 J/4 you can buy it at MEC... thats bigger than that face of Great Trango Tower that was claimed as biggest cliff in the world or whatever Oh yeah Rob Richards and Colin Dionne tried to climb theface on Albert a few years back but claimed the rock was bad but that doesnt matter to a base jumper right.... And closer to home East Face Of Slesse, and Navigator Wall on the South peak of Slesse, are over 2000 foot and damn near vertical.

The Dyke was freed in 1993 by Dean Hart (11d) via Movin To Montana start, but the second pulled off the crux hold. Kevin McLane and Dean have a hate going on so the ascent was never in McLanes guidebooks. Local word is that Matt Maddaloni has freed all of the Dyke but hasnt linked it single push yet.

Mike King kicks ass, here he comes to pull us out just ahead of a nasty storm. Go Whitesaddle!!!

You are smoking crack Peters. The moderate line has always been in the vicinity of Echelon, and Warriors of the Wasteland is 12a not 12d.

I memorized it while Fred was sleeping after we hiked out of the Bugaboos. The only problem is, most of that black book is just either photocopies of old articles out of the CAJ and AAJ, or it is maps of obscure parts of the world with peaks circled and GRANITE written in the circle.

Local Squamish guide Kris Wild has finished this years scrubbing project. A new 10 pitch route from above the Apron up to Second Summit of the Chief. All 5.9 and easier* except as noted below. This is basically a clean version of Echelon which you can look up in your guidebook. A topo can be found at Valhalla Pure in Squamish (same mall as the Starbucks). Basically: climb any route on the Apron. Then climb up Boomstick Crack or Memorial Crack as for Squamish Buttress. Hike to the base of Kashmir wall/Squamish buttress, then go left along trail into gully. Downclimb gully about 150m to large obvious clean corner (visible from approach). Climb obvious cleaned line trending up through forested ledges. 10 pitches of 5.9, except last pitch is 11a or 5.9 and 3 A0 moves pulling on bolts. A ramp pitch to the left of this will allow a true 5.easy finish but hasnt been cleaned yet. So basically this together with the Apron route of your choice will be an all free, clean, ~16 pitch 5.9 route topping out on the summit of the Chief - a good option for those for whom Squamish Buttress and Angels Crest are too hard or if you have already done them multiple times.

quote: Originally posted by IceIceBaby: Yeah, I know the ANTZ (I own one) But I was wondering since the TRE can do it on double-rope like Gri-Gri for signal rope Or you could just duct tape two gri Gri together, if only they made them with left-and right- handed versions. Otherwise you would tape one of the levers over

There are 5000 foot walls near the head of Princess Louisa Inlet... 2000 foot, bah! Then again this little unclimbed wall is 'only' 600m....

The Diamond on Bear Mountain is the overhanging 2000 foot headwall above the ice couloir and east of the North Buttress, not some silly 1000 foot wall on some Colorado rubble heap

whatever bro, from your route description it is obvious you were climbing Gibsons Crack.....

2 black plastic garbage bags? South Col is south col, right. Integ Designs makes em for MEC?? look on the catalogue. www.mec.ca. I wonder if that website address mec.ca is confusing for Muslims or what?

quote: Originally posted by dberdinka: What good is a juggy dyke?! If you are one you might appreciate another one. You might object to a guide drilling you though.

quote: Originally posted by chucK: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Just clip the quickdraws to the members of parties as you pass on by. Just as good as bolts since they are so numerous ...and they move slower than bolts! sometimes the bolts at Vantage move pretty fast....

I always take one 8 inch piece along just in case

Isnt a North Norwegian really a Lapp?

Rubberbox just missed hir chance news story

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: The steep face on Bear is not 2,000 ft. While steep and impressive the only way to get 2,000 feet out of it is to add the slabs on the bottom. It is these slabs which make the face not very attractive. If it was truly a 2,000 overhanging face it would be world famous despite the gruesome approach. The buttress is btw a much better route than Slesse. Not 2000 feet.... rrrrrreally, you mean Beckey is lying or something

There are lots o bolts not only on the 11a as a lot of it follows juggy dykes. (Trask?) You also need a standard rack to 3 inches.

quote: Originally posted by chucK: I still wanna know who that John/Jon from Redmond is? Was it on Mt. Index as Dru suggested? Another thought, perhaps it was Serpentine Arete on Dragontail. I could definitely see that necessitating a rescue for a broken ankle. Hey Lambone! Did you get rescued up there this weekend? Jon from Redmond is a gaper whoever he is. Or is that Jon from cascadeclimbers.com? Doesnt Twight suggest, if you break an ankle while EXTREME ALPINE CLIMBING, sawing off the leg below the knee and rappelling off the frozen foot jammed in a crack?

quote: Originally posted by Jedi: My first time on AT skis in the mountains. They rule for glacier travel. I don't think I'll ever go back to shoes if I can help it. Now If I can only learn how to go down hill. Having now AT skiied 2 x in my life I can help with that... point skis down hill. Pick up speed. wipe out. repeat as necessary until at bottom of hill, or until binding breaks and you carry skis back to camp

Trees ARE fixed anchors. That damn Mt Index is gridded with em.

No, the Salewa ANTZ is a double-rope, auto-locking belay/rappel device which has been available since 1993/1994 if not earlier.

Get a Salewa ANTZ.

Bear North Face, The Diamond, overhanging.... Chief was BASEd jumping off the Prow wall above S gully.... you glide out over the Apron when your chute opens... Whatabout the Crooked River bridge near Smith Rocks?

Escape From Kyrgyzstan Rock Opera ALSO STARRING: Billy Corgan as Singer Smith and Trey Anastasio as John Dickey.... David Lee Roth cameo as German climber...Ed Veisturs as Ed Veisturs...