Dru

not much burnination happening on a glacier

a hacksaw will saw through the bolt much more easily than messing around with a crowbar - if you dont mind leaving a shiny metal spot flush with the rock.

there is also the casde of long standing rivalries like between a local prominent guidebook author and a local talented climber where the talented climbers routes are consistently misrepresented by the guidebook author due to some 20 year old feud about if one "stole" a free ascent of a project the other one was working on.

Man its really raining right now! Comin down in bucketfuls. I guess that makes it officially fall now even if the equinox is still a week away.

if you don't like the rock you don't have to climb there you could always place 12 equalized RP's and two hand placed (non scarring) pitons and equalize it all with a couple of Screamers like they do on gritstone. i have used the headpointing ethic in the past as a way to avoid placing bolts and i found it was fun, more so than redpointing.

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modern small camslike Zerocams will fit in a minimal scar where a pin has been placed only once or twice. i would argue this is less unsightly than bolting a piton crack

brrrr

what part of "American tourist" did you misunderstand

they printed the picture of you toking in the article, eh

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rollins since he left black flag has declined significantly. also the dude isscared of vancouver cause nardwuar might try to interview him or something. also he was in johnny mnemnonic but couldnt act. but the title "see a grown man cry -now watch him die" is OK i guess.

i think mts. Heakamie and Jewakwa are visible and you can see the top of Apple River Spire way way off in the distance. its a view SW over lower Homathko river valley towards head of loughborough inlet 100km + away.

slushiez

due to quantum mechanical effects i have a non-local correlation with many climbing areas

because the guidebook writer is disrespectful of Eriks style of ascent and proclaims it to be invalid by recording later ascents as the first, thus declaring the earlier ascent to have never occurred - much the way the death squads "disappear" enemies of the state. it is historical revisionism.

i heard the Mountaineers are going to start an Introductory Sprayers class this winter. The class will cover what to wear, safety techniques and history of spray. After completing the course graduates will be allowed to post to cascadeclimbers.com. An intermediate course will cover writing trip reports and posting photos. The advanced course, taught only to the most qualified and talented students by experienced guides, will cover trolling, drinking beer and creating avatars. Beginning students will practice on a keyboard that is not connected to the Internet, for safety reasons. All students must affix a piece of tape with their cascadeclimbers.com user name to their monitor and leave it there at all times in case they need to be rescued.

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Ground up style is totally valid. I know a Quebec dude who makes a point of never reporting first ascents just leaving a sling somewhere on a line so that 20 years from now when the climb is repeated someone will know that it has already been climbed. That said I do believe in reporting of new routes no matter what style they are ascended in, otherwise it can be hard to tell if a dirty crack has been climbed but not cleaned, or not. I have made my share of 2nd ascents believing them to be firsts and only later found out the truth

the long break in for the freneys was due to the rubber rand i think. once i got em good and stinking wet ice climbing in the winter, the leather softened up and they broke in faster

a lot of my cheep score pins have MEC $1.95 price tags still affixed

for stacking pins against

then I would actualy have to WEAR my helmet and color coordinate helmet, shorts and polypro

by the way, if you ever wondered what a snaffle is,

you could write it on a piece of tape and put it on your helmet