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Dru

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Everything posted by Dru

  1. free the snaffles! at my parents summer place the baby ducks would always be paddling around behind mama duck. at one point every summer the number of babies would drop from 5 or 6 to 1. the rest would have become mink dinner.
  2. its a crack climb but sometimes you dont get good rests for gear but give'r to the next stance
  3. i am only posting when sending 30 foot long M9's with no ice. i got a spray-enabled Blackberry in my helmet.
  4. news story Let's designate wilderness areas to protect this critically endangered species!
  5. three years of time wasting addiction and sometimes good beta
  6. are spurs gonna be much use for a vertical face anyhow????? the best use is for heel hooking your tool for a hands off rest on a roof dont forget to hook your leashless tools together by the handle and sit on the pick for the "no hands dildo rest" as invented by Dave Dornian
  7. i don't see any bolts YET
  8. is that a ski basket he has there...or a branding iron
  9. yup i guess old news is good news!
  10. Dru

    Beta Leakage

    trask suffered some beta leakage when he ate a block of olestra...
  11. mixed climbing is not stupid and dumb, but that a 30' route with no ice is proclaimed as the "hardest mixed route in the state" is stupid and dumb. about like calling a 1 pitch climb on some high crag the "hardest alpine route in the Cascades"
  12. 1) Cause you are bankrupting yourself with a much higher per capita total expenditure on health care, less efficiently spent, hence more money for doctors and less for patients. You are buying them with higher wages and less work and a big gov't deficit. 2) a question for a question - Why are so many Americans coming to Canada to have their prescriptions filled?
  13. but we need a place to train somewhere, don't we? most of the crag areas are too low for mixed (temps stay above freezing). who needs freezing temps for dry tooling anyway new "M12" (no ice all dry tooling in a chipped out slate quarry cave) Too Fast Too Furious in Scotland climbed in the middle of summer
  14. so good he posted it twice
  15. Hey Scrambler so what else is new? Canadian tortured not worthy of comment?
  16. I heard a story from someone who claimed to know that the "Great Arch" at Squamish is actually called "Zoo2" but the name was changed by the guidebook author because he thought the latter name was silly. I know the author lurks on this site cause he sends me emails whenever I take shots at his soft grading system Maybe he will post if I continue!!!
  17. i learned the hard way not to spot people mixed bouldering in grotto canyon. sharp points hurt spotters. BUT think of the possibilities with either 1) kevlar coated mats or 2) 8 feet of soft pow pow after all jyoti vyenne sent the FA of Svoboda 40' M9 in banff ropeless, because the cave its in had filled in with avvy debris making the route all of 8 feet off the ground i guess you missed it distel videos may be available
  18. Since my earlier post was deleted I wonder why ehmmic's saying the same thing, wasn't? But it's funny that Washington's "hardest mixed climb" is a bolted boulder problem. Where was Polish Bob anyway? Too busy sending in Canmore to put his money where his mouth is? glassgowkiss are you gonna send M12 on gear this winter in the mighty Snoqualmie Himalayan 800m savage arena?
  19. and dry for once too
  20. Dru

    U THINK I CARE?

  21. Dru

    U THINK I CARE?

  22. From end of logging road to bivy at base NF Shuksan 4 hours and minimal bush instead of 6 hours and scary bush - if you go the right way that is.
  23. actually my favorite pitch on the butt is not the crux pitch (altho it is good fun) but the one with the weird flake stricking out of the crack that you mantle on.... used to be 5.7 and suddenly got upgraded to 5.9 and hopefully will be 5.7 again in the new guide
  24. i think only off white has mentioned the variability within areas in other words for instance, Castle Rock and Midnight are hard for Lworthless while Icicle Canyon is soft like pillow. At Squamish, Smoke Bluffs and base of Grand are mostly easy... lower Malemute is hard. ( Brown Ale 5.9, Penguins in Bondage 11a etc). 5.10 sport routes at Cheakamus are soft while 5.10 sport routes (all one of em) at Pet Wall are nails. etc. Josh is hard and soft all at once and mixed together. I went soloing at Indian Cove once and after cruising a bunch of 8s and 9s, got shut TOTALLY down by a chimney described as "4th class" on the Short Wall.
  25. best moderate link up at squamish angels crest plus squamish butt plus smoke bluff connection plus as much beer as you can hold down. i'm still trying to link the 4th part to the first three successfully
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