Dru

I heard a story from someone who claimed to know that the "Great Arch" at Squamish is actually called "Zoo2" but the name was changed by the guidebook author because he thought the latter name was silly. I know the author lurks on this site cause he sends me emails whenever I take shots at his soft grading system Maybe he will post if I continue!!!

i learned the hard way not to spot people mixed bouldering in grotto canyon. sharp points hurt spotters. BUT think of the possibilities with either 1) kevlar coated mats or 2) 8 feet of soft pow pow after all jyoti vyenne sent the FA of Svoboda 40' M9 in banff ropeless, because the cave its in had filled in with avvy debris making the route all of 8 feet off the ground i guess you missed it distel videos may be available

Since my earlier post was deleted I wonder why ehmmic's saying the same thing, wasn't? But it's funny that Washington's "hardest mixed climb" is a bolted boulder problem. Where was Polish Bob anyway? Too busy sending in Canmore to put his money where his mouth is? glassgowkiss are you gonna send M12 on gear this winter in the mighty Snoqualmie Himalayan 800m savage arena?

and dry for once too

From end of logging road to bivy at base NF Shuksan 4 hours and minimal bush instead of 6 hours and scary bush - if you go the right way that is.

actually my favorite pitch on the butt is not the crux pitch (altho it is good fun) but the one with the weird flake stricking out of the crack that you mantle on.... used to be 5.7 and suddenly got upgraded to 5.9 and hopefully will be 5.7 again in the new guide

i think only off white has mentioned the variability within areas in other words for instance, Castle Rock and Midnight are hard for Lworthless while Icicle Canyon is soft like pillow. At Squamish, Smoke Bluffs and base of Grand are mostly easy... lower Malemute is hard. ( Brown Ale 5.9, Penguins in Bondage 11a etc). 5.10 sport routes at Cheakamus are soft while 5.10 sport routes (all one of em) at Pet Wall are nails. etc. Josh is hard and soft all at once and mixed together. I went soloing at Indian Cove once and after cruising a bunch of 8s and 9s, got shut TOTALLY down by a chimney described as "4th class" on the Short Wall.

best moderate link up at squamish angels crest plus squamish butt plus smoke bluff connection plus as much beer as you can hold down. i'm still trying to link the 4th part to the first three successfully

there is a route called "Payanoia" at Easter Island craglet in the Smoke Bluffs. real soft and easy for 5.9. Kevin told me he is going to rate it 5.7 in the next guidebook so go do it now!!!

This isnt this weekend but I wish it was.

klenke - there's a little trogdor in all of us I guess we like to BURNINATE

i dont think this is tex... where is the duct tape? where are the carhartts? nice try tho.

Your post reveals either a desire to spray or complete ignorance on the history of “Islam” and current political thought as publicly expressed by Iranian leaders. For example, Hashemi Rafsanjani, the powerful chairman of Iran's Guidance Council, has talked of "the elimination of the Israel problem with the use of one nuclear bomb." PP Sounds very similar to Ronald Reagan "My friends, I have passed legislation outlawing Russia forever. We begin bombing in 5 minutes. Wait a sec, is this mike on?"

like you wouldve driven 11 hours from portland anyhow.

no S over P? isnt that one of the 50 essentials? shock horror!!! putting lives at risk!

dox - building gear anchors on the ground, and on a ledge, works the same. mostly the difference is on the ground you have your whole rack to choose from but on the ledge you've placed half of it. as i recall saber has bolted anchors anyway. martian diagonal at peshastin, or r&d route on icicle buttress would be other good first multi pitch leads for the new leader.

if u already do a bunch of scrambling and glacier climbing i think you'd learn more doing a session with a rock guide or with a couple of friends who already lead, than with a big group course like the mountaineers offer.

what's agonizing? it sounds like being bit by razor sharp teeth should be pretty painless. being bit by DULL BLUNT teeth would hurt a lot more. like if you covered yourself in p-nut butter and were attacked by a snafflehound

dox did you have enough trust in your gear you felt confident falling on it? if yes then skip those pre practiced 5.4-5.6s and go directly to SABER at castle rock. do not pass go - do not collect $200...

Hey what about RURP is he banned or not?

I read a lot of Dwayner TR's. They all go "I am in (insert name of far away place lacking bolts) and I'm DRUNK!"