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Dru

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Everything posted by Dru

  1. I only have one winter ale left too ---> Now or later I read today that Kelowna uses even more than West Van. Must be to put out all those fires
  2. Yeah...you can't see bolts from the road - especially if they're powder coated, but you can see the cleaned off rock "trail" and ensuing chalk marks. To me the visual impact of all are related. exactly. so why not try to minimalize where we can? i do not use chalk ever because of this very reason. every activity has an impact to some extent (especially in nature) and it is our responsibility to minimalize this in every way we can. i am drinking beer in order to consume less freshwater
  3. well you have kept most of your replies in the last 4 pages to one paragraph, see, maybe you are learning!
  4. Dru

    Turkey Day...

    Turkey Day was Rope Up
  5. maybe while taking the time to put together that well-thought-out post you can look up Concise and Brevity in the dictionary too
  6. HEY THE BOLT IS OVER THERE!!!!! your belayer yells. Maybe Piep-Bolts are the solution. The pinging would indicate your proximity.
  7. well there weren't any gear placements in the caves were there? so they didnt get the opportunity to complain about trad climbers
  8. I'm with you on the self-centered and self-serving nature of many climbers, Scott, but most non-climbers see nothing wrong with bolts -- the people who get bent out of shape about this issue are almost exclusively climbers. And pretty much the only time it ever becomes an issue for land managers is when some climbers get into a row over it. That doesn't mean it is not a real issue, but your statement here is damn near 100% wrong. Like RuMR says - some of the peripheral impacts associated with sport climbing are real issues to folks other than climbers, but the bolts themselves are generally not. there are plenty of areas near Las Vegas where it was hikers who complained to the authorities because of the sudden proliferation of fixed draws, trails, landscaping, lawn chairs etc as remote limestone amphiteaters werre manicured into the next outdoor sport gym and wasn't it CAVERS who complained about the lava tubes near bend? or are they just a type of climber but different climate- different impact - not saying that hikers are complaining about Exit 38, they are probably unable to see the bolts under the curtain of moss and slugs anyway
  9. the hole is rock damage a good argument for keeping bolt counts low by placing gear wherever possible i would like to see someone argue now that a route with 6 bolts bolted drilling by hand on lead, is better than the same route put up on rappel - i haven't seen that argument regurgitated pro and con for a while! Well, it goes like this: Given that any pussy can drill on rappel, those 6 bolt holes get multiplied by the scores of jokers who think that bolting on rap creates a lead. Now instead, if we agree that "leads" must be established on lead, and that bolts must be drilled by hand, just how often are those six holes going to appear? Answer me this, oh clever boy! not the question i was asking - two six bolt routes - bolts in same places - one drilled on lead one drilled on rap - argue merits of one over the other. it is just as easy to rap bolt a runout if you are a cheap bastard like me
  10. you said they didnt cause ANY environmental impact i pointed out that a small hole is not "nothing", it is a very very small "something" but the main impact is visual, and even that is not so much the bolt itself (on granite slab they can be hard to see from 10 feet away) as it is fixed draws on sport routes and lines of chalked holds, and cracks get chalked just as bad but on the wider ones the chalk is hidden inside.... I don't think either pope or RumR has said anything new yet today and i wonder who thinks they are convincing who??? maybe mattp can make another 15-paragraph long post and put everyone to sleep
  11. the hole is rock damage a good argument for keeping bolt counts low by placing gear wherever possible i would like to see someone argue now that a route with 6 bolts bolted drilling by hand on lead, is better than the same route put up on rappel - i haven't seen that argument regurgitated pro and con for a while!
  12. what if you moved to Layton, Ut., and everyone in the town was named Mike or Michelle Anderson, and they all looked just like you
  13. if you broke both your feet, would you go to the hospital or your chiropractor first?
  14. Actually, there was one (CBS?), and the climber in the picture was flamed for "sewing it up". I think it was dryad's trip report. That was dryad's first alpine trad lead and she did well to sew it up. The person who ridiculed her was properly chastized by others, if I recall correctly. here is the tr in question I wouldn't call it a TR. It is more like a picture, Caveman style. Catbirdseat made the post. that villainous, evil KLENKE did the horrble flaming!!!
  15. Dru

    VETRANS!

    you can have my closet, it's last occupant is "out" now
  16. i like to log-on to cc.com in the middle of the crux and focus on the lawgoddesses' whirly spiral
  17. Like any site - this site has a range of quality. Some is good some is bad. Some of the TRs posted here are very good. Some are just plain lame. A forum in which people can post TR's without recieving comments would invariably become a dumping ground for crap if only because TR's that the author thought were any good would appear in a forum where they could recieve praise. It is wrong to uniformly praise even things of low quality. It makes the good seem less good to praise the bad equally. Since many people here seem to lack the reading comprehension of, say, Ray Borbon - who is a master at it IMHO - - where did I say that all beginner TR's are bad? Ans: no where. Where did I say that all TRs of popular destinations are bad - nowhere. Where did I say that not every TR is good - right here. Where did I say that I do not enjoy poorly written TR's, of whomever, describing whatever - right here. If RuMR wrote some TR about blah blah sent 5.13 and it sucked I'd be among the first to tell him so. When someone writes a TR of their first lead and they write it well - I tell them so with a So - ScottP and Michelle and Cracked - if you guys want to see TR's WHY DONT YOU WRITE SOME MORE INSTEAD OF TELLING OTHERS HOW TO RESPOND TO THEM? and no photos of posing on a tight toprope please cracked! I write a bunch of TRs - they are on this site - if you think they suck why don't you criticize them?
  18. ...that Dwayner had this girl avatar
  19. If my past (and rather limited) experience with crack climbing is any indication, 5.4-5.6 should be just right for me difficulty-wise. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. Sounds like Icicle Creek Canyon is my best bet for now, and maybe I can go to Squamish or Vantage when I grow up. Royal Columns in Tieton sounds good too, but the only info I could find on it was a "here are a few routes, but, by all means, try any crack that looks good" in Soot. Thank you kndly, Mr. Soot, but not while I'm trying to learn new technique. Thanks again to everyone who replied! you may find that 5.4-5.6 in Washington compares to some routes rated 5.7 or even 5.8 in some areas at Squamish....
  20. Burgersling - do you ever run into Alpinfox at Mom's house
  21. After conversing with Mr. Ilgner about his book on Gripped bulletin board - I accused him of spamming and he basically admitted it and apologized - I found a copy of his book and perused it. I think the book Fern gave me called "Self Hypnosis in 2 Days" is just as effective and costs less. However, it is not as climbing specific.
  22. i have provided more beta today than you have
  23. hey michelle you are describing a person i don't recognize. what a strange view you have of me. let's see the last TR I flamed was hmmm... dberdinka for nailing a free and clean route and before that - probably wayne for what i considered to be ruining colin's TR with some chest thumping.damn, i'm a vicious, evil person as far as i can tell the only person i have ever flamed for spelling was harpell for teh posts taht nveer sepll porperly -cheif i guess you see all those spelling flames and never see the posts where i say to someone's TR or welcome a new poster instead of flaming them for say, having the temerity to say they aint going to show up at some dive of a bar why don't you try and show some evidence to back up your claims if you think i'm that bad? or it may be that you will come up short and then apologize to me i am always willing to admit i was wrong if anyone can show me i have done something i don't think was right, and i will issue an apology and retract any statements in the principled manner alpinfox did, if they are pointed out to me please do not attempt to bring up deliberate and obvious trolling like me asking a worked up and ethic-spewing Lambone how many pins he took on his glacier peak epic in the strickland nailing post. i like trolling and im not going to apologize for it. edit - oh wait i also asked hardman polish bob why he had to retreat up to the summit when attempting to descend australian gully and then go down SE ridge on Joffre
  24. ah yes another person practicing what they preach
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