Dru

quote: Originally posted by Cracked Egg: Integral designs and Bibler used to be the same company. The material in the walls is identical and ID has the use of it in Canada, they developed it together. The workmanship on both is excellent. ID is only less expensive because of low marketing and strong U.S. dollar. From the mouth of a Black Diamond (Bibler) and Integral Designs representive. BUT.... BUT.... The ID material is called TegralTex and the Bibler material is ToddTex????

quote: Originally posted by The North Face: Angela Hawse will narrate and show slides of this fantastic achievement that demonstrates that believing in our dreams, anything is possible.... ...if we have enough money and big-ticket sponsors to put together an "expedition" and siege and fix ropes and use oxygen and blah-blah-blah. Personally I think the Erik Wiehenmayer/Hugh Herr/Mark wellman ascent of Ancient Art was about 10 times more inspiring but that is just me. I'm still waiting for the first sufferer of Frogmorton's Syndrome to summit the Big E.

Twight blows himself up on a regular basis!

True Smith story: two friends of mine (I will call them Pat & Dan )were down at smith and jonesing. So they see some skater kid hitch hiking and pick him up. "Hey skater kid where can we score some weed?" "Uh dude, I think you could go out to the house of this old hippie in Prineville - but I got some speedballs right here!" "Oh, no thanks, we're Canadian!" "What is that, some religion or something?"

I know what you mean about the cameraman problem AlpineTom. Have you ever seen the film of Catherine Destivelle on Devils Tower? She starts off by rope soloing El Matador and half way up a bight of rope catches in the gri gri she has set up to blay her. Camera zooms in on the bight of rope not pulling through and she "decides" to untie and free solo to the top. I'm sitting there thinking - "why doesn't the camera man just reach over and undo that bight?"

On the subject of climbing/drug films, what about that "El Cap" big wall film where they smash the watermelon open on the flake in slow-motion? That film has always seemed to be meant to be watched on something trippy to me

quote: Originally posted by OfficeSpace: Of course it did Maybe it was Beckey's bastard child and he thought the brother's house was the orphanage?

Some friends made their own ski film once called "Man far out man". One buddy was going over a jump and managed to knee himself in the face when he landed and knock out a tooth. The best part was when they sand skiied down the cliffs above Wreck Beach. I love watching silly films where people injure themselves doing stunts. The crashes in mt bike and skating videos are always the funnes part except forseeing a $5000 carbon fiber bike with all the gizmos get totally destroyed. They should have more crashes like that in climbing videos.

i started to want to climb Cook/Aoraki after seeing three guys ski down it in a warren miller film that was shown in the high school cafeteria at lunchtime many years ago. so I guess it is thanks to warren i ended up hooting ganja out of a tinfoil pipe on a back road with a maori biker who then drove off with my wallet. Thanks warren!

which part of the cascades? it would be pretty eaasy trucking along in oregon between the volcanoes i think.

FWIW the Terminators, and I believe the M10's and Rambocomps, have versions of the same sorta t-shaped cross section on the frontpoints - vert at the front and with some horizontality at the back near the toes. so either its trendy or it works!

Jon, there should be another category, like after 10 posts you get "rope lead", after 1000 posts you should get "Spray Lord" status!

No, BC charges 7% sales tax and there is a Canadian 7% GST (goods and services tax AKA gouge and screw tax). Foreigners like Americans can get their GST refunded at the border if they save theirreciepts. So Will, you come up here, buy a bunch of loot at MEC, then at the border stop by the refund center and get 7% refunds!

It is that time of year. You go out with your puffy jacket, toque, big cushion and scrub brush. But the boulder is too wet to climb. Luckily the conditions are perfect for smoke-a-bowldering. You sit under the overhanging part of the boulder on the mat and spark some consolation. Soon you are talking shit to your spotters as the peace pipe is passed around the circle carefully spotted to make sure it doesnt go out. "Yeah, yeah, send, send, hold it" they chant as you inhale a great blue cloud and keep it down in your lungs. Another bowldering V18 is conquered! Better spray about it and have Pusher (good name, that) release video footage tomorrow to all the online spray groups and magazines!

PS - Sean Isaac is a friend of a friend. Apparently he things the "Aid Climbing Rapist" thing is pretty funny, at least funny enough to point out to Guy, who claimed he would never have known about it otherwise... Also Gord you forgot to include the beer swilling graemlin next to the phrase "having a few pints" , dock yourself some style points for that! [insert the usual disclaimer about second hand news here] [ 11-01-2001: Message edited by: Dru ]

Winer climbing ->mixed climbing -> bolts!! Heh heh. Either that or the single mindedness of the posters to this board I didnt hear Leo complaining about the bolt ladder on the Leaning Tower West Face

Leo is British and gets outraged about any bolts placed anywhere in the world he might one day want to climb. Good thing Leo doesn't swing tools much or he would get pretty upset about the Canadian Rockies right now!

If ya want to get some practice on long distance walking in a day just get out and start walking. Do Twight style Enduro pushes. A buddy of mine once left Vancouver at midnight and was north of Whistler within 24 hours. Thats over 60 miles i think...

What about Britney Spears ambitions and plenty of experience on other virgin "summits"?? I too suspect a come-on for guided hoo-ha and lots of wannabe Karakauers making daily spam webcasts back home to http://www.imgettingguidedupahimalayanmountain.com. Sorry in advance if I'm wrong. [ 11-01-2001: Message edited by: Dru ]

Hmmmm how to make your own - you are gonna get Twight and House showing up at your door with axes swinging to protect their sponsor's secret recipe! How much do you make with a batch? Can you make like a 1-liter Nalgene full of it? That would be great for non stop EXTREME ALPINE pushes [ 11-01-2001: Message edited by: Dru ]

Looks like the best screw racking thing to me.But I haven't tried one yet. CoOp doesnt carry them wah! (What up with that "fishstick?") So where is a good place to stop in and buy one as I beeline down from BC to Smith next weekend? And has anyone out there who has used em got any comments? Previously Ive just been using big ass sport bentgates with the Arcteryx ID on them. The Charlet racking system looks silly and the simond double biner thing costs $30, thats kinda pricy. Any others? I know Grivel has the condom thing but buying ten of them would get kinda pricy.

For all time long traverses, some Indian guy did the complete Himalayan range traverse as a single push over something like 400+ continuous days of walking in the late 1980's I believe. That would be the Asian Crest - no "trail".

all 3 days i was gone?

In the 2001 AAJ Leo Houlding calls SI and Larry Dolecki "Aid Climbing Rapists" for placing rivets up a blank corner on La Esfinge that Leo avoided with 5.11+R ish climbing on face holds out left.

when i make border runs they are from chilliwack lake up the river and out to glacier. but if you had a good catapault you could fire packages from the road in columbia valley across to the corresponding road on the us side, or you could just hand toss them across from zero avenue in surrey! i hear the border guards are so worried about terrorists now they are so relieved to find you are just smuggling bud they let you go with a hand shake and a kiss on the cheek