Dru

I saw John Miller pick up Lillooet girls in "Mugs and Jugs" and he was wearing a mumu! Whats your point Cavey??

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Dirt is hard! As I mentioned before..... Until it is frozen up then it is M2!!!

Bumper sticker saying "if this vans rockin dont come knockin", airbrush art on the side of some barbarian with a mullet riding a polar bear with naked women at his feet, and an 8-ball for a gearshift knob.

you can always tape a shake-n-heat chemical handwarmer pad or two to the canister if you are leery of the wire wrap making it explode.

INTERNATIONAL MAN OF MYSTERY Conrad Anker wears plastic boots and gets the chicks according to the Koflach ads. Seems good to me!

Some grades are harder than others (sounds like a U2 song line ). Case in point, when 5.12 was the upper limit of the YDS a lot of routes that would get rated 5.12 today got rated 11+. For instance the last pitch of Daily Planet (crux, 12b) was given 11+ by Perry Beckham, as was the first pitch of u wall (12a today) by Hamish Frasert and im certain there are more well known examples in washington. these days when everybody wants to pad their resume looks like its going the other way, 'grading for the onsight' and soft grades in general. funny at squamish, mclane keeps bumping things up a grade, lots of soft grades now. when howie richardson took over the skaha guidebook he bumped a lot of 10as down to 5.9s and a lot of 11as diown to 10ds and so on and now the grades seem spot on.

This site is run by my buddy "Ard Arvin". He takes submissions (hint hint).If legally pressed I woulds have to testify that I do not know anyone by the name of Ard Arvin. www.buildering.net

seems to me the area you start climbing always has the correct ratings and every other area you visit is either hard or soft for the grade. or both at once like at j-tree where the 5.9s on shorter wall are easier than the 5.7s on DQ wall never did figure out what up with that!

Saturday - did some hiking and smoking and skipped rocks on some subalpine lakes, and a little bit of bouldering. Unfortunately on the Chilliwack limestone crags at Slesse Creek it is fishing season and there are piles of fishermen's shit under all the pocketed limestone boulder traverses! Makes it bad news if you bail, more like soloing. sunday - went to the CoOp and bought some BD Express screws since now is the only time all year they will have them in stock! Also looked at some Grivel 360s at CMS but the 75 dollar price tag did not seem motivating. The funky coffe grinder wire lever seems like it would be easy to bend or break while beating on the screw with a tool trying to remove it or clear ice.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I'm thinking about installing a shark fin on top of my helmet this winter. Route shark! !!

Hell will pay? "Say I hear you got a good deal on some gear on cc.com". "Yeah it was on sale for $100, I put in $25 and Satan took care of the other $75. Says he wants to make some friends with ice climbers and skiiers as he's heard a cold front is coming to his domain soon. Flying pigs have already been spotted!"

Fern - wait till you get the money then take the gear and head for Thailand

most of them started with a full set!

The Capt. needs to preserve his knuckles for dragging them on the sidewalk when he walks down the block to the liquor store.

Some things are definitely more inspirational than others, sad but true. Take Whittaker's ascent. would it have been as inspiring if he was missing a hand instead of a foot? OK then how about missing a finger instead of a foot? Little finger vs,. index finger vs. thumb? What if he was missing both legs below the knee(like Hugh Herr) instead of one foot? What if he had soloed it without oxygen with the disability he has? The inspiration comes not just from the accomplishment but from the style with which it was performed. If some quadraplegic was carried to the summit by Sherpas, it would be a "disabled ascent", but how inspiring would it be? The thing that I like about the Ancient Art ascent is the way the three of them were able to work as a team and overlap their capabilities for a successful ascent. And my gripe about the Slideshow advertised above is that it is motivational Everest hype pure and simple, USING Whittakers disability as a shill to suck you in and tap your $$$$. The slide show itself is "free" but the point is to hype the Sponsors. "Puffy Wipe - just like we used on Everist hyest in the WURLD!!!" [ 11-05-2001: Message edited by: Dru ]

And I think that clearly Rheinhold Messner's ascent was the first disabled ascent of Everest. If you read anything that guy has written you will see he is suffering from some sort of bizarre mental condition: "I went to the Himalayas and saw the Yeti. Then I ran for the European Parliament!"

The next ascent of Everest will be achieved by piling up a mound of "Everest Literature" and motivational speakers who think that climbing Everest makes them and what they have to say interesting, and steeping DOWN onto the summit of Everest from the top of the trash heap.

How many ice routes has Vadim done?

There are at least 4 or 5 different thicknesses, weights, waterproofnesses of Schoeller fabric out there now so you better think twice when comparing fabrics between different companies.

quote: Originally posted by Cracked Egg: Integral designs and Bibler used to be the same company. The material in the walls is identical and ID has the use of it in Canada, they developed it together. The workmanship on both is excellent. ID is only less expensive because of low marketing and strong U.S. dollar. From the mouth of a Black Diamond (Bibler) and Integral Designs representive. BUT.... BUT.... The ID material is called TegralTex and the Bibler material is ToddTex????

quote: Originally posted by The North Face: Angela Hawse will narrate and show slides of this fantastic achievement that demonstrates that believing in our dreams, anything is possible.... ...if we have enough money and big-ticket sponsors to put together an "expedition" and siege and fix ropes and use oxygen and blah-blah-blah. Personally I think the Erik Wiehenmayer/Hugh Herr/Mark wellman ascent of Ancient Art was about 10 times more inspiring but that is just me. I'm still waiting for the first sufferer of Frogmorton's Syndrome to summit the Big E.

Twight blows himself up on a regular basis!

True Smith story: two friends of mine (I will call them Pat & Dan )were down at smith and jonesing. So they see some skater kid hitch hiking and pick him up. "Hey skater kid where can we score some weed?" "Uh dude, I think you could go out to the house of this old hippie in Prineville - but I got some speedballs right here!" "Oh, no thanks, we're Canadian!" "What is that, some religion or something?"

I know what you mean about the cameraman problem AlpineTom. Have you ever seen the film of Catherine Destivelle on Devils Tower? She starts off by rope soloing El Matador and half way up a bight of rope catches in the gri gri she has set up to blay her. Camera zooms in on the bight of rope not pulling through and she "decides" to untie and free solo to the top. I'm sitting there thinking - "why doesn't the camera man just reach over and undo that bight?"

On the subject of climbing/drug films, what about that "El Cap" big wall film where they smash the watermelon open on the flake in slow-motion? That film has always seemed to be meant to be watched on something trippy to me