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Dru

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Everything posted by Dru

  1. quote: Originally posted by verticalturtle: Any news of real ice?Anyone been up north yet?How are the frozen ice hosers...er hoses in Canadaland? Can't wait to go get some good canuk vt Rockies has ice. BASTARDS! Replicant, Nemesis etc are all in. Only moderate ice I have heard is in is R n' D. I may make an excursion this weekend to verify the rumors (its that or smith but timm@y would probably show up at smith and hit me )report back here next week same time.Lillooet doesnt. A few more weeks.
  2. Dru

    Beckeyisms

    "The route is class 4 except for a few aid moves"
  3. quote: Originally posted by jon: Back to topic. 5.12 spray spray 5.11c nerble nerble 5.8++ sandbag gimmee soft hard hangdog sport trad blah blah
  4. Those are "money shots" and they might not be in the face either, after all he's now from "Bend Ore" or is that "Bend Over"?? ! [ 11-06-2001: Message edited by: Dru ]
  5. Look out Bronco SC is trying to seduce you!! Keep that Monty half-full over there! SC, you cant send him sweet nothings by PM and the rest of us wont have to suffer through it
  6. We got more freshiez than you do right now i betcha. The hills are alive with the sound of faceshots.
  7. Dru

    Surprise!

    Ortega conceded defeat yesterday, it was on the radio courtesy of BBC World Sevice. Gues I'm putting my "NICARAGUAS REVOLUTION MUST CONTINUE -TOOLS FOR PEACE" T-shirt back in the closet
  8. I get pretty high on mountains too , usually, can I do a slide show about that 'bone?
  9. Dru

    Beckeyisms

    Do you think Fred was non-gender specific in that last phrase by accident or on purpose?
  10. Ok, a serious reply. I got the Verticals and love them. They climb great for plastics and are Ok on alpine rock especially on tiny edges (smearing, un-uh - they are plastics remember). I find them better/more comfortable for hiking in than Scarpa freney's actually (my Freneys aint fully broken in yet tho). Walk around in wet snow for 16 hrs and feet stay dry and warm, best thing about em. Can be easy to scratch up the inner pulling it in & out of the outer so unless you have to dry them leave it in all the time. I heard Degres are not as good for steep ice either alpine or waterfall, because the shell is a bit more flexible, but I never tried them so can't say. Also with the bumblebee-yellow Verticals you get to be a swingin man of mystery like Conrad Anker!!
  11. ROTC was done by Boving Yeah? Croft did Stevens Pass Motel, etc. Left Side of the Split was done by Nic Taylor of Australia (same dude there is picture of in Twilight Zone in yosemite Climber) in 1975, first 5.12 in Pacific NW even if it did get rated 10+ at the time!! Croft and Beckham did 2nd free ascent in 1980's, thought it was first free hence the other name (Grand Wazoo) rated it 11+, it was 1992 McLane guide that upgraded to 12a where it has rested ever since.
  12. quote: Originally posted by lambone: Angela rocks! She's way burlier than any of you fools. Oh and Dru, TNF doesn't need some slideshow to get "hype". They have a new Electric Blanket Coat! And the TNF edition SUV!! creating global warming and destroying the market for their electric coats...
  13. If the Capt had a brain transplant with a yeti the yeti would probably die and that would be endangerment of an endangered species!
  14. quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Well when I started this thread I was hoping to get a sense of how people viewed ratings at various areas and wasn’t attempting to start a discussion on grade inflation. Many good points have been made and I thought I’d throw my two cents in quickly without elaboration and bring up one important yet I think neglected factor in grade inflation – improvements in technology Ratings gain their real meaning thru experience. Ratings are a means of communicating this experience to one another. I believe that any rating system over time will tend to suffer grade inflation and that changes in climbing styles, equipment and an increase in the participating population will tend to speed up this trend. This grade inflation does not occur equally over the entire sport and will occur in a staccato manner. This is entirely a matter of social relations and not one of marketing, although marketing can exacerbate the underlying phenomenon. Since technology hasn’t been discussed so far here are a couple of examples to illustrate. Sticky rubber – Clearly sticky rubber made many routes easier than they were using hard rubber. As local examples think of On the Verge at Index, any route at Static Point, Slipping Clutch at Squamish or finally RPM at Snow Creek Wall. With the exception of On the Verge none of these routes have been down rated to reflect the widespread use of sticky rubber. Use of Cams – As a sidebar I should note that some considered cams unethical at first. These definitely made climbing easier and less committing. While some may argue that difficulty of placing protection or commitment shouldn’t be reflected in the YDS rating it is obvious that it is impossible to eliminate the effects of these factors. Here are some local examples: Thin Fingers at Index and ROTC at Midnight. Again these routes weren’t down rated. Good examples at Yosemite would be Pinky Paralysis or Spiderman. Slipping Clutch may have got easier with Sticky Rubber but it got harder too with the usual moss lichen and slime. Maybe you were thinking of a clean slab climb like Dream On?
  15. Dru

    Beckeyisms

    "Here is a fine bivouac ledge, complete with running water and trophy-sized rodents." "hey, does your boyfriend climb? want to go climbing with me sometime?"
  16. quote: Originally posted by max: A question of internet ignorance: What is trolling? Throwing a juicy outrageous statement out on the net and sitting back to see how many suckers respond to it(, like this As you would know if you weren't such a gay sport climbing Everset wannabe moondancer!
  17. quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I bet it was friggin cold up there. What next round 2 free solo it? What next - Supercrack! ROOOAR!!
  18. Where theres a Will theres a way, yo Big willie Style take it away.
  19. I think I just did 20 posts in 20 minutes or thereabouts, its these insult fests with Caveman. I don't wear Lycra in the closet I wear it out in the open!!! Usually when I am doing the Elvis and dogging on 10b sport routes at Smith Rocks. See you all there this weekend for a display of how to have an epic on a sport climb, watch me crater trying to clip 2nd bolt on BBQ The Pope again and then watch some 8 year old girl solo it.
  20. quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: I'm on the 8-ball shift lever (even if it'll be sitting on the end of an automatic shift lever). I'm also currently looking for some (here's your cue Dru) hot-purple dangly balls to go around the interior. The back windows and the one side window (no side windows except the 3 in the doors)are tinted, but not the front ones yet. It was a toss-up between chain-link and leopard-fur, at $4.99 leopard fur got the nod (plus it's getting cool out, chain-link is cold). For bumper stickers I'm looking for a "Benevolent Frateral Oder of Police" bribery system sticker to go next to the "Grass, gas, or ass..nobody rides for free" sticker.If I got the mullet-barbarian mural I'd have to get those heart or spade shaped bubble windows installed back by the rear corners, and probably would be entering an entirely higher level of pimp-style, I'm not that cool yet (need another six months to grow out the hair so I can mullet it). Hey, anybody got some Kid Rock on 8 track? My dangly balls are not for sale!!!! You got it right though they are pinky-purple most of the time. not blue like Cavey's
  21. quote: Originally posted by Courtenay: re: leg swing on pullups -- I can see "swinging" being a real problem on hanging knee raises for abdominal/core strength, but can you give me more info on body position that could cue me in to your "swinging" issue and how to correct it? I heard the body position that sexual chocolate uses while "swinging" involves getting down on all 4s!
  22. quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I picked down yo' goathomey dere and stole ha' mumy den dumped ha' out on de bridge. What it is, Mama! ah' stole mah' boots fum some wasted kinyucka' bitch. Right On! The Bridge of the 23 Camels? MMMm those Lillooet girls, they braid their armpit hairso pretty, if there was five or six of them together they might have a full set of teeth between them, sort of like Tacoma girls with class.
  23. quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: I don't know, Captain, all-around alpine stuff. Maybe a winter ascent of Rainier, some ice climbing, maybe even some mixed stuff. Hopefully, one boot will work for all of that.... I find TWO boots works a lot better than one, ya one-legged moondancer!
  24. I can't find Mt Eerie anyways anybody got GPS coordinates for that crag? Maybe its like the Bermuda triangle
  25. quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: That is where i got mine too. I was agreeing with you stoner Where you got your chicks, where you got your boots, or where you got your mumu??
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