Charlie

It's about 700' tall, granite, with quality routes of varying difficulty. It can be approached in about an hour and descended by the walk off on the right.

Rosilyn; Ever see Northern exposure? There are a lot of sandstone boulders right in town (park at the Brick and head north) I went there a few times last year, it's ok. You can get some first "ascents"

J Tree!

Rosilyn

Capt Caveman is climbing with Fred Beckey this very moment.

Last winter, while in jtree- I was belaying a friend when I was overwelmed with the urge. I clenched my cheeks waiting for him to reach the belay. Finally, I ran around the corner, dropped my harness and pants, and began to let loose from both ends. Relieved, I pulled myself together and tied in. I got about 1/4 up the pitch when I reached around to chalk up- to my horror, my chalk bag was filled to the rim with urine!

OK, OK- what would you like me to write about?

There are more routes that were stripped- the 2 sport routes to the right of party in your pants just to name a couple. Also, I replaced 3 sets of anchors with hangers, slings, and rings- when I went back last weekend, someone had taken the slings and rings. I may have a suspect.

Trask- 2:44am? You were slurring up the board when I was on at 1:00- Someone needs to start giving out SWI's (spraying while intoxicated)... I would suggest just rubbing one out and passing out, it makes the nite shorter

never mind, I am an inferior computer geek [ 01-16-2002: Message edited by: Charlie ]

another vote for aliens- If I were to do it over, my rack would consist of aliens up to red, with chamelots .75 and up. (unfortunately I have some HB's and trangos mixed in) Aliens are nice in pin scars because of their narrow profile (most tcu's have dual stems on the outside, making them wider and preventing them from fitting in most scars)

I'm so proud of you- I'm fighting back the tears

geez- and I was just about to nominate capt caveman as the best alpine buddy.

it was kinda funny, one of my buddies nudges me and says "hey, isn't that the bum that always hangs around camp 4?"...he was unaware of his legend status.

how about: ifyouassholesstealanymoreofmyanchorsatvantageiwillshootyouinthefacewithmyshotgun? Kinda catchy eh?

Taping your hands before a crack climb is like having sex with a condom on. Don't cheat yourself- nothing beats admiring your 'gobes' while sitting at a desk monday morning.

I guess you haven't met Big Joe yet? I'm scared of my girlfriend.

not at all, that wasn't directed toward you. I was just joking along. I don't have any routes at vantage (except for "the 51st classic of north amerika" at the feathers)- (I noticed some new chalk on it, so it's living up to it's name.) I replaced some anchors that were stolen above some of the CRACK routes, and some fucker stole them again.

how about- "ifyouwantsomeactionI'llleaveyouintraction"?

Hemlock has been domesticated. Sad, sad. Jtree was the shhhh as usual. Quite an outragious new years party- it included a fashion show, a potluck, band, several kegs, and lots of nudity...oh and the REAL chongo even showed up. [ 01-13-2002: Message edited by: Charlie ]

When I started getting into trad- I built an anchor board...I took a 4' x 4' piece of plywood and drilled 3/8" holes all over it in a random pattern. Then, using 3/8" bolts with 2 nuts each, attach them in all the drilled holes so that the heads of the bolts are sticking out from the board a little bit. This is a good way to practice equilizing anchors- by placing wired nuts over the bolt-heads. You can simulate multipitch routes with the board as well- image you are reaching a belay stance, build an anchor on the board, belay up your imaginary follower, clip them off, and set off onto the next pitch. ( I used to get some strange looks from my roomates when I would be shouting out belay commands to my imaginary follower) The board is also good for practicing setting up hall systems (big wall climbing)

sobo- give me a call if you need a partner, I live in eburg- I'm done w/ class everyday at 10:00 and will probably be around this weekend Charlie 509-925-1403 [ 01-10-2002: Message edited by: Charlie ]

68.....I'll owe you one.

Then stay off of it- damn 206'ers bashing up my little gem, then badmouthing it. (just kidding)

I dyno'ed for one of her slopers, I then found a bomber two- finger pocket. I traversed around the backside to a greasy lieback. I then applyied a heel-hook, followed by a mantle, leading to a climactic finish. The descent was very strenuous, involving a lot of bushwacking [ 01-06-2002: Message edited by: Charlie ] [ 01-06-2002: Message edited by: Charlie ]