goatboy

A friend of mine recites this little mantra before she tackles scary pitches, or as she enters into cruxy sections...you can hear her saying oh-waaaaaa ta-gooooooo si-ammmmm Go ahead, say it out loud to yourself...it's like the "Om-mani-padme-um" chant....she says it calms her nerves....

I won't call you anything but I will beg to differ.........with a lee aspect at that elevation the Colchuck Glacier should be pretty heavily loaded just now, right on top of the ice layer. I wouldn't want to be on it until it's done a freeze thaw cycle or two to glue things together a bit No need to beg! I've been away for a month and am apparently out of touch about conditions up high (uh, if you can call Colchuck "high.") I think you're probably right, however, and I appreciate the correction. Wouldn't want to mislead some Virginian (I am one myself, originally...)

What does scar tissue between your ears do? Not much I am afraid. NANCYBOYS??? That's a new one on me . . . I like it, though. Hey Mister E, I notice that you bothered to edit your amusing message....I wonder what aspect of the final product was improved by that editing effort, in your opinion?

My wife, who is a doctor, informed me that the scar tissue one develops on the hands (due to repeated gobis) is actually weaker and more likely to re-open than the original skin -- so this bodes ill for the "leathery hands" theory, doesn't it? I didn't tape for YEARS that I inhabited the J Tree area, and I'm pretty sure I never developed the leathery hands and resistance to gobis that others have mentioned . . ..

Hmm, that can be a tough time -- there's a lot of precip. happening right now, so rock routes may be less than ideal...Colchuck Glacier would be fine, though a bit of slog to approach right now ... November seems to be "between seasons" a lot, too wet for rock, not enough consolidated snow for steeper snow routes, often high in avy hazards . . . not trying to be negative, just telling you my experience. Good luck! There's always p.s. this is where some real drinker posts to call me a light-weight.

Soooooooo, It looks like there's not a lot of opinions out there -- I'll have to buy it and see for myself. Thanks anyway... GB

Curious if any of you have checked it out, have any review of it -- is it worth buying, in your opinion? Thanks!

North Cascades Hwy is closed for the winter season.

S Ridge of Mt Dixon, Southern Alps (near Cook)

New Zealand is the place I'd most like to move -- or at least re-visit! I love the people, the fish and chips, the keas, the beer (pronounced, "beeeah!"), and the mountains...

Chuck, Thanks for the correction -- sorry about the typo -- we climbed from the East Side only.

Here's a different answer: Overtraiing in the gym, and generally over-climbing without rest days for a few years, essentially developing chronic tendinitis in the elbows which plagues me to this day . . . . don't be dumb like me.

Upper North Ridge with Gendarme, car to car, about 19 hours I think...certainly not the fastest time....we were doing well until the Gendarme, but really slowed down there . . . . the slog down the Cascadian just about sucks, too . . . . it was October a few yrs ago, no snow . . . .

Hey! Are you cyber-hitting on my wife??? Check PM's...

Went to the Bugaboos (finally) and the Pickets in the same week. Pickets included an awesome (and humbling) climb of Inspiration Peak, 21 hours tent to tent, christ...

Stylus for slide film.

Goatboy checking in from Tucson: The trip has been great -- we climbed the Wasteland on the first day, a great (thought steep for the rating!) 5.8. We spent a touristy day in Tombstone, which happened to coincide with the anniversary of the gunfight at the OK corral, which we saw reenacted -- funny stuff. Then we climbed "What's my Line," a really enjoyable 5.6 featuring a SEA of chickenheads, which serve both as pro and belay anchors on this 3-pitch route. We ended with Owl Rock and some other shorter stuff. All routes were climbed from the West Side. Great free camping just before the pay-site. More details (and photos) to come at a later date. Thanks to all for the recommendations. Note: I almost stepped on a rattlesnake descending from What's my Line, and was startled by another one on our final day . . . maybe not a great place to bring a dog! Here in Tucson, it may be halloween weekend, but the frost is definitely NOT on the pumpkin.

Thanks for the recommendations! How's What's My Line? Looks like a classic chickenhead wander. Any other words of wisdom?

Hello, I'm heading to Cochise and would appreciate suggestions for good climbs in the 5.6-5.9 range. I have a week or so to spend in the area. Also, would appreciate input regarding the West side vs. the East side camping/climbing options. Thanks! - GB

UBB36-ML-509598-ML-

I wanted to go to Sardinia for my honeymoon but my lovely wife demonstrated to me that I married the right woman by suggesting we go ice climbing in Ouray instead . . . . which we did! Anyway, it looks great and maybe we'll go there for our anniversary sometime! Thanks for the pictures...

I ascertain from your post that you're thumbing through Beckey's book trying to find routes to climb. It's a hard way to start, because his book is so comprehensive, and rarely offers judgment as to which routes are better than others. I suggest you refer to Jim Nelson's first guidebook which offers a more selective grouping of peaks, including lots of easy peaks appropriate for the climber you describe your brother to be.

To be at Vantage for 5 straight days would drive me nuts, personally. I suggest checking out other things in the area such as Tieton (not far from Vantage) or Leavenworth as well.

A year or more ago I heard about a documentary which was being made on Fred, with interviews with old partners, Helmy, etc. Anyone know updates on this? It was going to be at Telluride Film Fest, but as far as I know, it was never finished . . . .

PLEASE be sure to paint white dots on the landscape, periodically, to indicate where the "trail" goes (and distinguish it from nearby campsites and "user trails." THANK you.