TimL

Ahhh...the Gunks. I've heard so much about the legendary area but never figured I'd have a chance to visit the place. As fate would have it, I got an email asking if the girlfriend and I would like to join a couple of friends on a trip to the Gunks during my next visit to Toronto. S last Friday night we took off in a full on rainstorm. I’m not talking about the misty shit we get in Seattle, this was full on Noah’s Ark conditions. At the border at Buffalo, New York we met up with a group of friends and I openly hesitated on continuing on with the trip. With this rain, I saw no way it could be dry at the crags. Six hours of driving got us to the Gunks around 2am. Might I mention it was still raining. Eight rolled around to quickly, but to my surprise it was sunny. A quick drive up the road brought is to the main parking area for the Trapps. What a cool crag and very beautiful as well! Urban cragging at its best with paved trails, bathrooms and signs corresponding with the guidebook to point you to climbing areas. It seemed like the crag averaged about 90 meters in height and offered so many routes that it’s unbelievable. And might I mention, the rock was dry! Since it was Elena’s first time on outside rock, I figured we should start on an easy classic. Three Pines 5.3 was the first route we came to and it was actually open, as I understand it is a phenomenon that rarely happens at the Gunks. The climb can be broken into three pitches but its very easy to run the first two together, which equates to a very fun, long 50 meter pitch. The second pitch ascends a massive dihedral to a rightward catwalk then some scrambling to the top of the cliff. Super fun climb. I thought it was a little stiff for a 5.3, but its the Gunks and everything is supposed to be hard. It actually felt like it could be a PNW 5.6. Elena did fine on Three Pines so I figured we should step it up a little. The first route to the right is Something Interesting 5.7 PG. This is a full value 5.7 with a full 50 meters of excellent climbing. Very interesting and delicate face climbing pulling several small roofs on big holds and a top out on a big ledge. I wouldn’t recommend this route for the beginning 5.7 leader, but I thought it offered tons of fun for the grade with some areas of widely spaced protection. To finish off the day we decided to head over to Uberfall area. A friend was having problems pulling Retribution 5.10b PG and was falling at the crux roof onto the old manky pin which is the only “good” protection for the first 25 feet until you hit the ground. So I pulled the rope and jumped on it. Very interesting climbing. It took me about 5 – 10 minutes, no falling or hanging, to figure out the sequence. I eventually found a small crimp edge on the lip of the roof that allowed me to reach to a high finger lock and lay back past the roof. Once past the roof, 40 more feet of crappy gear and thin cracks lead to the anchors. We finally finished the day off with Dirty Girdie 5.8+ PG. The crux of this climb was a desperate mantle shelf. Ok climb but not for a person on their first day of climbing outside, even if they vehemently insist. The second day dawned sunny and blue. I’ve heard from many people that the route to do at the Gunks is High Exposure. After a short 10-minute hike, we were at the base. I was super surprised to find nobody in line at the base for the climb. The guidebook says you can do the climb in 3 pitches. I’d recommend running together the first pitch into a single 50-meter pitch to the ledge beneath the roof. The problem that I found at the Gunks is a lot of the climbs do not follow natural features like crack routes on granite. Even though this pitch is rated 5.5, is was fairly difficult finding the correct path. Once at the big ledge below the rook I brought Elena up. I had always heard stories about pulling massive roofs at the Guns on easy climbs, but I was impressed at what was in front of me. Pulling a big roof onto an overhanging wall and its only 5.6? Didn’t look like it to me. I was wondering what Elena was thinking. Pulling this roof 200 feet off the ground on her second day outside was an exiting occasion for her. As it turned out the pitch was spectacular. The hardest moves were pulling the roof and finding the jug holds. Once you find the correct hold, you just climb the overhanging wall like a ladder. Very easy, yet super exposed and easily protected. But of course, I pulled the roof and seeing what appeared to be a holdless face I traversed far right to a crack system and started leading up an overhanging crack that felt like 5.9 not 5.6. As I kept going up the protection became farther apart then close to nonexistent on had moves, not to mention I only brought a small rack for the weekend. At that point a party above me tossed their ropes and as they were rapping over me asked me what route I was on. I said I was on High Exposure. The guy chuckled and told me that High Exposure was about 20 feet to my left, were the piton was sticking out. So what do I get to do? Well, I down climbed the pitch then traversed over to High Exposure and then finished it off. Elena had a little problem pulling the roof but once on the headwall, she flew right up. Not bad. To finish the day off we decided to do Limelight, a 5.7 PG. The route is one long pitch, rated 5.5 that felt hard, then a second pitch of 5.7 to the top. The 5.5 pitch had a small 20 foot offwidth crack section near the top that gave Elena some problems. It also took me a while to figure out were to find the route. The second pitch was a nice 5.7 that started off slabby then went to an undercling using small features for feet and finally pulling up a short section of overhanging jugs to the top. The Gunks are a really nice place to crag. I can’t wait to go back and try some of the harder routes. I’d really like to check out the Yellow Wall. For anyone heading to the area, New Paltz offers a lot of places to eat and buy food and is home to at least one gear store, Rock and Snow. There is even a Starbucks in town. With most of my traditional experience climbing cracks on granite, I found the Gunks an interesting place to climb. Most of the routes are several pitches. The first pitch is usually 40-50 meters long. Although I loved the stiff ratings, for anyone going to the area for their first time I would take it down a couple levels from there onsight level and try leading some easier grades. I had some problems route finding because I’m not used to the type of climbing the Gunks offers. When the guidebook says the rating on a climb is PG, they mean it. Usually, I don’t take these types of ratings seriously. At the Gunks, I grew a healthy appreciation for these grades. Different form granite, on average it seems like the climbs at the Gunks are more ran out with less opportunities for protection. Bring a helmet. I usually don’t wear helmets crag climbing but I would of felt better having a helmet at the Gunks. The nature of a possible fall would be longer. As for gear, bring tri-cams. I had long ago sold mine and did not bring any to the area. I brought my usual 5.10 (set of nuts and cams to #3) rack expecting to have enough pro. I did have enough but would suggest adding more small to medium cams and tri-cams. Also, I would recommend bring a lot of slings, as the routes tend to wander a bit. The Gunks are the only place, besides alpine, were I could see double ropes being useful. It was a great experience. I can’t wait to go back. Thanks to everyone for their beta!

Check this out. Pretty funny.

TR soon to come. Not in town this weekend but will be next. 11worth is a good chance, so is Squish or Index. When are you going to skip school and thrash on some Index cracks with me? Plus we have that alpine climb to do that we talked about! And I promise, I'll go bouldering.

Dehydrated = Bullshit .....at least every everytime I eat it.

You going to skip work one day and come out climbing with me when I get back?

A friend of mine wll be going to Alaska for a two week climbing course and asked me what I would bring for food. I know what I would bring but I wanted to hear some suggestions on what other people would bring that would offer some variety from day-to-day. My staples would be mashed potatoes, tuna, soup and oatmeal with a bunch of candy and energy bars as well as gu. Thanks.

This past summer after doing the Ptarmigan Traverse our group found an easier way down the left hand side of the slide in the trees. I think it was about 30-45 minutes of bushwacking and then you hit the trail.

Wow, thats sucks. I hope you get better soon. Please share your experience only if you feel like it.

D - Sorry to hear about your ankle. At least it will give you time to fully plan your wedding before the summer season starts. Get well soon!

I bet I could if only I was able to figure out a little technique and foot work... Really, LC is not the hardest route in the Cascades. When considering the progression of grades, 13a really isn't that hard. The 5.13 standard was reached many years ago. There are a fair amount of people out there who are climbing at that grade. The bigger question is why are there not more hard 5.12 to 5.13 traditional routes in the mountains? Surely with all the shit talking on this board, someone should be able to go out and establish several traditional routes in the Cascades at a high standard.

What about the hardest route of each genre of climibng? crag ice , crag rock, alpine snow and ice, aline rock... Then maybe a final category of hardest to get to hardest, alpine route? Are there any cracks in Washington harder than City Park? Are there any sport pitches in the state harder than the Whore of Babylon? In terms of rock climbing, I know there are harder routes out there both in alpine and crag. Its just a matter of either doing them, or finding a person with enough talent and drive to do them.

I'm heading to the Gunks this weekend for the first time and I know a bunch of you are from the East Coast(RuMR) . I was wondering if I could get route recommendations on the classics from super easy like 5.3 for the girlfriends first time on rock to 5.12 so I can find something to monkey around on. Thanks for any and all beta.

I thought it was named "Traffic Light"?

Thanks Dan. Was that the same rope we used in the Bugs? I found a deal here in Toronto for a Beal 9.4 70m rope for $139 Canadian. Its a good deal but if the rope is shit, then I don't see a reason to buy it.

I need some opinions on ropes. I'm looking at buying a 9.4 for an all around rope. Aid, traditional, sport, alpine, etc. I know most people would go with a thicker rope, but I wanted to see if anyone has used ropes in the 9.4-9.6 range and see how quick do they wear out? Thanks for any and all beta.

dumdum - thats not the point. I'm with MisterE on this one. It sounds like a half ass job. Go Dog Go and Vision are both super mega classic routes. Its not like they are not including some obscure climb. In general, I think the fence and the erosion control measure are a good thing, but this was really stupid not extending it to Go Dog Go.

JJA - Next time we are out, we'll have to get shots of the Playboy bunny climbing team. I heard they are visiting Index soon!

AlpineK - I have to agree, Jim Bridwell's slide show wasn't the best, but he pictures were real climbing shots. Scott Burkes was pretty bad as well, but he made up for it with enthusiasm and some good pictures. He's a real nice guy, maybe crazy, but nice. Give JJA a break. He is just being good natured like always. Furthermore, taking shots at folks on the internet is bad style. Why flip shit to a climber when they are just trying to make money to do what they love? All the playa haters STFU!

Check your pm's

I think you've climbed it before, but Easter Overhang was super good and wide at the top.

Then STFU. Give the kid a break. If he keeps up with the sport, and somebody turns him to the darkside , he's going to be really good.

I have the 1996 version of the CAG and have some confusion about some of the routes on the West Face. The route mentioned in the CAG is called the West Face Direct Route. This is obviously the same route described in Cascade Select. Beckey mentions there are some variations to the West Face but it seems the topo describing the differences in routes are fairly vague. The major variation that is detailed was opened by Lee Cunningham and Monte Westlund in July of 1984 and looks to be located between the 1980 route (Cascade Select 1) and the Northwest Buttress. When looking at the face, this variation didn't seem that apparent. Could this variation be to the right of the 1980 route? Are there any variations to the right of the 1980? Besides the 1984 variation, are there any other variations that exist that are not described in the Beckey guide? I was up there a while ago and got confused. The topo in the Beckey guide does not match what the face looks like. Thanks for any and all beta.

Whats that supposed to mean catshit...Oh...I forgot...your an alpine hardman......

UTW. We were on Green Dragon. The crux pitch is really fun. I thought it was close to C1+/C2. No way is it C3. Pretty much every placement seemed bomber. I can't think of any reason why anyone should bring pins or heads on the route. It was a spectaular day.