TimL

For sure the 2nd pitch of Davis Holland for 10a! When I think of a lot of PNW roock climbing I tend to think of short cruxes followed by much less sustained climbing or good rests. It doesn´t have the suustained nature of Yosemite.

Rumr...do you ever worth? Bench marks for the NW trad cliimbs....I´d call Godzilla a benchmark 5.9+, Moonshile Dihedral 5.9, Slow Children 5.10d, GNS 5.6, Clean Crack 11b, Jap Gardens 11c, GM p1 or Lions Chair 5.8, Split pilar 10b, Easter Overhang 10c, Meat Grinderr or Heart of the Country 10a, Clay 11d. I,m having problems thinkiing of a good 11a benchmark.....

the Leavenworth mafia...this could be a sequal to Good Guys.

wow, sounds like the little birdy flew up your ass and your a little upset. Take a breath, it´s a joke...no need to be so serious. Besides, it would be a seriously expensive plane ticket to come and pitch me in the talus.

It has been a great 8 years climbing in the Pacific Northwest, but like all good things, it has to come to an end. After much hard thought, the chica and I decided that Spain would be the best place to live at this time. The people are what make a place special and there are tons of great follks in the climbing community. It has been awesome over the years meeting and climbing with a number of folks on and off this site. I have too say thanks to all the people I´ve shared a rope with over the years especially Fred Rogers, Alex and JJA. If anyone makes it over this way, feel free to PM me for beta and if you guys want trip reports from a different area, I have no problems posting them. The Cascades are an awesome place and I´ll be back from time to time climbing, as well as I´ll still spray on this site. Cheers, Tim

racial slurs and bird lovers. as cc.com turns what's next............snafflehound seduction...... certainly i hope no one harms the little birdies, but we are going to have to toss the nest when the little ones fly away, and while they are there, we will just have to climb around them.

And if it is early season, bring boots on the climb for the descent and walking across snow. Depending your comfort on snow, you might want an ice axe.

The 5.7 section is a slab and alll you really need is one sling to protect it to clip a pin. I believe you can back the pin up with something, then you can get a small, maybe orange TCU in after the crux. You could bring for a rack singles from the blue TCU to a #3 camalot and a small sets of nuts and bring a lot of slings. You certainly could bring less and be fine depending on your comfort, but the above rack should be good for climb and setting up anchors.

whatever.....ha ha, I don't like birds.

Last Thursday I had the same experience on Jap Gardens. I also believe there is a nest on Godzilla. I'm not much of a nature freak, or an animal lover, so I would say climb the route anyways, as I did, and let the bird get pissed off. Maybe even give those small little birds an an early flying exam. It would be better to have less flying rats. On another note, the upper of the two rocks in the big upper section was really loose and I almost pulled it out. After a tug and a couple of pounds, I did secure it much better, but beware it is and I think always has been, a little loose.

Not a super OW but Easter Overhang was nice, as with some others at Midnight that look good. Damnation Crack.....

Thanks D!

What type of rack would you reccomend for this route considering you might solo it? How is it rapping the route. Anything special to consider?

Hey John, I think I can make it work. I'll shoot you an email.

I would call some of those routes, Dogleg, Angel Crack and Libra test pieces for the grade, but not sandbagged. Especially Libra and Angel are so short that is hard to warrent grading them any harder. If they were longer or at Squamish it wold be a different story.

Has Anybody been there in the last week or so? How are the conditons? Where is the snow level? What is it like heading up to Sahale from Cascade Pass? Thanks

A couple years ago in fall on a dry year a couple guys did the route. I think it was pretty broken but its doable. This might be the right time of year to do it. If I remember correctly, there should be enough room around the col to camp. If not there will be room on the Dome Glacier.

I would like to say that I did it on TR cause I did not have wide gear. I would like to go back and lead it with wide gear. The lower face moves felt harder. The upper wide crack is just technique and really bomber once you figure it out. I am very comfortable saying it is 10a. It didn't feel that much harder than Moby Dick at the base of El Cap. The OW on Moby Dick is 5.8 or 5.9 4-6 inches for a long way with a 5.10 finger crack crux at the bottom. Carnival Crack felt a little harder than Moby Dick, but by far not nearly as long. A lot of it has to do with wide crack technique. The day before I did CC we did Hyperspace and the 10d Pressure Chamber killed me. I free climbed a little bit of th PC but aided a lot of it. It felt 10d or harder. Granted on any OW like Moby Dick or Carnival Crack I've pulled way harder and expanded uch more effort than say a 5.12 or harder sport climb.

I guess people could be a solid single pitch 5.9 leader, but throw in some exposure and route finding and they move slow as snails. Happens to everybody as some point.

You cold knock off a bunch of good, harder crack routes at Midnight. But....Midnight is closed right now I believe, I was at Castle yesterday and I thought I saw raptor signs and I did hear a screech from one of those f*%king birds. Peter - You forgot to add Easter Overhang. I thought it was super good. Same thing with WASP and the one next to it. I think Midnight Rock, next to the Lower Town Wall at Index, is one of the best and highly concentrated crack climbing areas in Washington.

remeber A Dawg, we did Carnival Crack the day afterHS and I was really tired, but I still felt it was 10a. HS is a good route with nice hard pitches stacked on top of each other which is not common for that area, so in terms of relating it to climbs in the area it is good, but if you compare it to other areas it is slightly above the average IMHO.

or wash away all the asshole rangers

I'll be the only one to say it : there is better climbing elswhere. like Index?

The route is good. I've done it a couple of times. Every pitch is good climibng. I think you can combine the first two pitches to the base of the 11a with some rope drag. The 11a "crux" 3rd pitch is not that bad. The 4th 10a pitch is nice and straight forward. The 5th 10c pitch is nice. The 6th 10c pitch is good, but then you have to switch corner systems to the left and your faced with climibng a hard looking face on the right, which I thought was mid 5.11, or a dirty corner on the left which I have never done. this brings you to a belay at a tree and the base of the "Pressure Chamber" which is 10d but super friggin hard for the grade and I would say is is a sandbag. The Pressure Chanmer pitch looks shorts, but conserve your gear lower down because it is a long pitch and the belay at the top takes small to mid size gear. The next pitch is 10- and is dirty. I think we brought a rack of doubles to 2 o 3 with one 4. I think the 4 was not needed. The pressure chamber takes small to medium gear. Use 60 meter ropes and bring lots of slings and draws.

the lycra is in the mail