chucK

Such a pompous post! Have you never had people stack up behind you?

I think it's a laudable goal to always try to climb a route in good style, especially on a classic, popular route. Having been on both ends of the stick, I can tell you first hand that: 1) it's fun to be on your game. 2) it's no fun to flail while a growing number of grumbling parties pile up below to witness your thrash and dangle. Like a freeway, a popular climb gets a lot of traffic, and all it takes is one driver/party to cause a lot of people to end up waiting. Sometimes things just don't go as you expected. One can underestimate the difficulties, overestimate one's strengths, and/or just plain weird stuff can happen. You might get stuck behind people, or you might be the plug. I guess my conclusions are no-brainers, but here goes: On a popular multipitch climb... 1. Don't expect things to go smoothly (i.e. not have to wait). 2. try to honestly estimate your ability to complete it in good style. If you're testing your limits, then everyone (including yourself) might end up happier if you test yourselves at someplace or sometime less crowded.

One thing to keep in mind is that everyone is "fast" when they are waiting behind another party. Often parties of equal or lesser ability can run up behind you at an isolated crux pitch. It's probably a good idea to sniff out for yourselves the relative competence of the party behind you. Don't just assume that some party momentarily chomping at your heels is faster. Otherwise you might be slowed down by the passing operation and then also be stuck behind a slower party! Also, if you see four parties waiting up at the ledge, you have seriously miscalculated if you think that it's gonna clear up by the time you arrive! Remember that there's only four plus pitches to the top from there! That is, that party now at the crux will basically need to be topping out before you get to climb.

That thread Tomtom linked to is slightly dated. The current configuration allows only moderators to post to the events forum (but anybody can reply to existing threads). If you want something new on the events forum (which will go on the front page too) PM a moderator.

The UWCC Picnic is today at the UW Rock going from 4:30 till however long it lasts (probably at least 7:00 PM). Everyone is invited, though priority for free food is for club members or other friends of the club. Chances are there will be some free food for you to munch on though! From Gary Yngve, fearless leader of UWCC

You might have been on Dark Rhythm topo

Speaking of Neutrinos, I was in Nelson's shop the other day and he showed me all sorts of new biners that are better (lighter, bigger gate opening) and cheaper than Neutrinos! Also some that better, but more expensive . Jim Nelson opened my eyes!!! Praise the Lord Too bad I already own a ton of neutrinos

Lost Charms is a fun and moderate route at Static Point. I would not say Lost Charms is not runout. There are not unlimited gear-placement options, and many of the placements are for the smallest gear. If you feel fairly confident on Static 5.7 and below, you should be fine. If you're constantly jonesin' for a piece at every 5.6 move, you are not going to have a good time. The climbing on Lost Charms is not as predominantly no-holds friction climbing as most of the other Static routes. Because of that, many find it less intimidating. Bring a lot of small cams and nuts. Plus a couple cams and/or nuts in the 1-2" range for a couple of the belays. You might want a screamer for the single bolt, which is not very inspiring and at a cruxy spot. Routefinding is an issue. The first two pitches are somewhat undefined. The "hidden" belay bolts indicated in the Cramer guide are, I believe, non-existent. If you stray just a bit too far right, lured by the bolts out there, you will be on Shock Treatment, a great route, but significantly harder. For the descent you can rap over to Online from the top, so leave your stuff at the base of Online. You can also forgo the last pitch by traversing directly left to the anchors at the top of the Online crux. "Great Flake" pitch on Lost Charms I have not done the 10b extension. I backed off right at the start due to hard climbing, bad well-spaced bolts, and bad anchors! So anyway, I wouldn't recommend that part to you.

... or just make sure you do them one at a time, keeping the correctly-laced one as a guide.

That would fit my schedule quite well. Keep me in mind. Though my finger is hurt right now If there's a reasonable amount of interest it would be cool to set up a weekly morning (Index Tuesdays?) where cc.commies and whomever can just show up and have a good chance of hooking up with a partner or three. Whattaya you think (and I talking to YOU, not just Choss cRawler here)? Tuesdays or Thursdays would be best for me once July rolls around, but any morning is probably about the same until then.

Hopefully your climb leader's not planning this kind of rapping off of Whitehorse.

Well someone is winning in the war on terror.

Mexicans are cool. You are not.

Today is Cinco De Mayo, the day when Mexican soldiers and militia, outnumbered 2-1, kicked France's butt!!! They did it while the US was embroiled in our civil war, possibly saving our butts! (although you might see this a bit differently if you're a confederate sympathizer). Fascinating stuff. Search "cinco de mayo" on Google.

Dangermouse Theme

Doesn't Pugh have a corniced knife-edged ridge this time of year? I was turned back a couple of times in early season at the knob above Stujack Pass by the exposure of that ridge. Though that was a while ago, my mind's eye does not remember that as an optimal kid hike. However, once the snow's all gone, things are much different (good trail to the summit).

Since the "crux" is a traverse above overhanging terrain also consider the ability of your second. And what about that move topping out onto the pedestal? That one seems like it should be easier but it always sketches me out a little (sneaks up on you). That's probably the place where that guy who died last year initially fell and hurt himself (i.e. be sure to sew that part up).

#6 is where you want to be at 7 on 5/5/5

Just goes to show you that if you want to get anything done on a.com all you gotta do is whine on cc.com

Maybe it's that filter program your Mom put on your computer.

I would guess that it clearly details rules of engagement at checkpoints, which of course would be very useful to people who wanted to attack checkpoints or smuggle stuff through them. Don't know if you'll have much use for that info though Klenke. I hope

10b's at Index that are called "10b" (at least in the guide that I have), and people actually climb. Lovin' Arms p1 NAD p2 Terminator City Park p2 Zipper p1 (10b on topo, 10a in text) I guess I'd go with the 10c for Thin Fingers, but I've only toproped it (but I have toproped it about a jillion times! ).

possible new Simpson's episode?

If you're in a convexity* (on steeper ground with a less steep section below you) the sliding on all fours (weight on feet, hands for balance) technique has a good chance of stopping your fall as you grind into the lower-angled part. Don't give up right away! If you're on a concavity* (gets steeper below you) like the top of bulge, then all bets are off. I might try one of those sketchy running tactics, depending on how much rope is out. Whatever you do, make sure the rope is never behind your feet. Getting flipped over on a slab is serious bad news. * I could be mixing up these technical math-geek terms