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chucK

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Everything posted by chucK

  1. H.P. Lovecraft "The Beast in the Cave"
  2. There were a few stories on the news right after the tsunami about that area in Iran hit by the huge earthquake. People were still living in tent cities funded by the red crescent, but aid monies were drying up because it wasn't current news anymore. Coming back from devastation like that is a long-term process.
  3. chucK

    more costs of war

    Most of these guys are even listed in the official casualty figures. PI story about returning guard units Must be some sort of hotlink denying issue. Just try cutting and pasting this URL: http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/local/214804_ephratafolo07.html There, all fixed now. Either link works now. ?
  4. Or AlpineK and krew
  5. I mean the top of the top pitch (p5?) of 10%. There is a 5.9 slab up there with two bolts. Both are 1/4"ers or smaller (?). The first one (the important one in terms of protecting more probable fall) is pretty rusty. The other one is small but not rusty. The anchor at the top of the pitch has one big bolt and one buttonhead. Are buttonheads basically suspect and replacement candidates? If so, there are two buttonheads on Terminator (a short sorta-fun climb between Winky Dink and the Shield), one of which could see a pretty good whipper on it. Also the top anchor (which this climb shares with another dinky climb) is three buttonheads.
  6. That Purell hand-santizer and various copies are mostly rubbing alcohol. If those are poison, there's some serious poisoning going on! Rubbing acetone or xylene or ... [CBS please add to this list ] all over your hands would probably be bad.
  7. Iran and DPRK can wait. We needed to take out Iraq first. They were the true danger. Mushroom clouds!!
  8. How does getting arrested help fund a climbing trip?
  9. With respect to that bolt of City Park p2 (the pitch between Godzilla and Slow Children), you can get a good nut in, in a much better place than that bolt is. You can even double up with more tiny wires. The only thing that bolt is really good for is for a foothold for those who can't make that first hard move. Though that bolt is sorta small, it is surely good enough for a body-weight foothold. I'd say just leave that one alone, or even pull it and patch the hole. Or if you really want to stir up a hornet's nest, pull it and place a new bolt up higher in a place that actually makes sense for pro. There's another bolt on that pitch that was replaced just a few years ago. Bomber. I don't remember any bolts on Slow Children, except at the belays.
  10. Top pitch of 10% could use stand some bolts replaced last time I checked (2 years ago). In case you aren't trying to start a flame war, a better term would be "bolt replacement" (there is still probably time to edit the title of your post). But if you want a lot of views for this thread, your current title will probably do the job!
  11. Post deleted by chucK
  12. Is caving climbing? Man that claustrophobia shit freaks me out. check this out
  13. Post deleted by chucK
  14. Good Covers: Kotton Krown - Two Nice Girls Search and Destroy - Red Hot Chili Peppers Kill the Police - Mudhoney Phantom 309 - Tom Waits California Uber Alles - Disposable Heroes of Hiphoprisy Bad Covers: Pinball Machine - The Fall Lake of Fire - Nirvana
  15. whole lotta gu, err... cliff shots
  16. That was sorta fun (as much fun as taking a survey goes). There's a good dreaming-about-climbing-while-at-work-section where you allocate climbing days to different choice of types of climbing. I'm not sure how in hell they are going to make sense of the data they get from that section, but it was sorta fun to daydream about your climbin druthers.
  17. chucK

    Dead

    Climbed Columbia Peak this last summer and was leafing through the summit register. Read an entry from some years back from some guy chestbeating about how he'd trashed the Beckey time estimate ... and it was me .
  18. So with a Reverso (or any of these other devices) can you still bring in one rope while the other rope is locked off?
  19. Whatever you do, use great caution if you decide to bring two seconds up with a non-locking device like an ATC. I did this a couple of years back on an easier climb with two dialed-in partners and we made short work of it. We had the security of a rope and noone fell or hung, and all was cool and quick. Then I applied this technique on the Split Pillar and one guy was pumped out of his mind (had taken a big fall trying to lead it, then lowered). So anyway, I'm belaying both of them from the top with an ATC. The not-pumped guy in front, then the pumped guy. The pumped guy falls, of course, and he's dangling. So I've got the ATC locked off, but the other guy doesn't realize the implication of this and is still climbing. Soon he's got a big loop of slack on his rope and he starts screaming, "up rope". Not good.
  20. I think this picture relates to both Dru's and Bob's comments:
  21. Yeah. CBS screwed up. He shoulda bought a #4
  22. I noticed yesterday that they were still in the bright sunshine an hour after the sun had gone down at Index.
  23. 1. Guide 30 mounties to the top of the GNS in 8 hours during a sunny weekend in May. Extra points for each climber you tell, "this route is reserved." 2. Let Klenke "hold on" to your credit cards.
  24. Cool man Now everyone but Klenke has climbed Whitechuck!
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