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chucK

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Everything posted by chucK

  1. WHERE'S THE GAY STONED ABORTIONS BOX?????
  2. That's quite a rack for a toprope! BTW, thanks for the Index stoke!!!
  3. So what's the beta on getting past this spot (arrow)? I haven't figured that part out yet...
  4. Have you even been there? The ledge is hardly pristine. With more than a hundred bolts up there, more than a few at ledge level for securing your pack or pooch, and even a few bolted cracks, I see nothing lost from a fixed rope/chain or some well-placed rebar (better). An argument against such an installation based on preserving any sort of wilderness atmosphere is totally off-base. And "bust out a rope and belay" .
  5. chucK

    SONIC YOUTH

    Got a new album I guess. Live feed from concert tonight at 9:30 club in DC here .
  6. He's a nice enough guy in person. He just writes funny stuff online quite often and I just like to give him shit about it because I can't help myself (i.e. I'm a jerk).
  7. Were there any mosquitos?
  8. mainstream media Check out that overhanging sickness on the first pitch!
  9. I got there at 10:15 and didn't see anyone. Did I miss you guys or ARE YOU ALL LIGHTWEIGHTS!?!
  10. Yeah here's a link that'll get you started surfing on the wave of information that cc.com has to offer infinite bliss
  11. In addition to a standard rack, the West Ridge of Forbidden requires triples of #9 hexes. You could probably get by with a #6 cammed sideways in one of the placements.
  12. Snoqualmie Pass though you will probably want an axe for a while still, but no crampons probably
  13. Aftersharpening try looking at the rest of the report gary you're just sore cause nobody slobbered over your pictures like this fuckin' a great pics Zoro dude "Meatsacks" that's a goddamned flattering thing to say
  14. chucK

    New Thread

    weak
  15. Wow! Those are the best pics I've ever seen of the Tooth. Thanks!! The Tooth is the best
  16. chucK

    political thread

  17. I think the rub here is single pitch versus the whole multipitch as a unit. With respect to single pitch, right off the ground to the first anchors, these would be two distinct pitches. "New routing" as G-spot offered. However, if considering the multipitch as a whole, as is JayB's take, then this may be adding fixed pro to the route. This intrepretation is muddled though since one would actually be following a different path for this small portion of the route. Surely one would cry "foul" if someone added bolts directly on the original path. Howeever, if you take a shortcut that is easier but only possible because you chose to use technology that the FA did not feel appropriate, does this cross the line to acceptability? I guess it might be analagous a pitch high on the classic route Epinephrine. The original pitch climbed a corner/crack/roof system (no bolts). Now there is a bolt protected path up the highly featured right wall of the book which bypasses the roof moves at which point one traverses back into the corner. If climbing via the original protectable corner, the bolts will not intersect your route. Is this "retrobolting"? Or a "variation"? Both?
  18. Haven't done this in a while! Suppose we're talking a multipitch slab route, established long ago. It is climbed by people, but is not popular. The whole thing is sparsely bolted. Though easy, the first pitch takes a circuitous route to the anchors (probably to utilize available natural pro). Now say that a direct route straight up to the first anchors is not really that difficult, just proless. Say someone bolts that direct route to the first anchors. This new line in almost no fashion overlaps the original line. It's just a shorcut to the first anchors, though the number of pro bolts on this new first pitch equals or exceeds the number of pro bolts on the entire original multipitch. Would you consider this a case of retrobolting? Where would this land in your scale of ethical acceptance? I will not reveal whether or not this is "based on a true story".
  19. chucK

    God Hates Us All

    Bush is celebrating 6/6/6 by visiting Roswell. Coincidence? I think not!
  20. Are you sure you're not thinking of one of those couloirs on the West Ridge route? When I've looked down the West Ridge couloir from the notch (when I've done the West Ridge proper) the West Ridge Couloir has looked pretty rubble-filled.
  21. Remember that judges usually drive too, and they know that almost everybody will try to push the speed limit a bit by going 5mph over (or 10 or whatever). If you were actually trying to follow the speed limit but you made a little mistake, that might fly, and maybe you'll get the fine reduced or get probation or something. Doing some bullshit like making the officer come in and then lying through your teeth that your speedometer said you were going 50mph would be playing with fire. I'd just do the contest by mail thing, and give your excuse. Though you may have to admit your guilt to do the mail thing.
  22. That's cause nobody understands it. It sure looks like a condescending put-down of somebody, but how can we respond if we're not really sure which fringe of the left fringe you are maligning? I think this Canadian terror plot is a good impetus for us to send our entire WA National guard contingent to patrol our border up North. I sure has hell don't want any damn terrorists humping 3 tons of Canadian govt. supplied ammonium nitrate through the unguarded Pasayten! It would be a great way to keep our National Guardsmen closer to their families and further from Iraq! Why the hell isn't Gregoire jumping all over this?
  23. A good reason to get a piece in just before topping out at Tieton.
  24. Road is totally open now (no 4WD or high clearance required).
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