We did the '57 route back in 1982, so my memory is a little fuzzy. I think we did something non-standard to get out on the rib from the lower bit, up to the triangular snowpatch then out right on some ever so gradually increasingly difficult rock, until the last move onto the heather and I thought, "huh, coulda used a rope back there." That heather was pretty heads up, but we just kept going until the rappel point before we uncoiled the rope. As I recall, there wasn't much gear placement opportunity, and it was the accumulation of constant mild anxiety that was so wearing. That's the kind of terrain where old fashioned stiff mountain boots are really helpful. We rapped down into the couloir, which we climbed on snow, but it was partly melted out and bridged over the rock in various places, so we just kept the rope on. We invented some cockamamie descent straight down the south side, winding up with the most cush forced bivy ever - soft bed of moss and heather surrounded by dry firewood. We did that descent that heads west, over the far shoulder and straight down the steep timber to wind up near the Torment Basin trail; that descent was out of fashion even back then, but all we knew was the Beckey guide. 🙂
I thought it was a really good outing, but once was enough. This direct start looks both wild and ghastly, tip o' the cap to you gents.