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Trip: Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Moses Tooth - Ham and Eggs Trip Date: 04/23/2021 Trip Report: http://www.gorobets.com/TRs/Ham_and_Eggs_2021_04_23.html Gear Notes: 2 ropes 60 m x 8.2 mm. A pair of ice tools each. 8 ice screws. 4 pickets. A set of cams from 0.2” to 3”. A set of nuts. Not used. 4 pitons. Not used. BD Spectra. Not used. V thread cord. Not used. Webbing for rappel. Not used. Approach Notes: From Root Canal air strip ascend snow slopes.

Trip: Silver Star Mountain - Silver Star Glacier via Silver Star Sno Park Trip Date: 05/16/2021 Trip Report: It was a tossup between Ruby or Silver Star Mountain this past weekend in the North Cascades. First time in the National Park, so as a Washington Native and Tacoma Born/raised you can diss on me all you want Went for Silver Star instead of Ruby Mountain. Wanting that extra elevation gain! Started at 6am from the Silver Star Sno Park trailhead. Mix of trail and snow from the start. Broke out on the first Boulder field then into the swamp! Followed good tracks. With a good 4-5 feet of snow there was little punch through in the morning. Different story on the way down! Followed a SE Approach to the Silver Star Glacier. Donned Crampons and Ice Axe "just in case." Long slog to the Burgundy Col kinda like the slog to Muir? Beautiful views though! Wind from the SW was blowing through the col so grab some protection either relaxing or gearing up for the last push to the summit. Class 3-4 with a couple route options. Either right to grab some slabs with some Northern exposure or stay left and shimmy up the Chimney which I did. Easy little push through, trust the rock and a beautiful view on the summit! Some pictures around the journey. Was enjoying it too much to take my camera out all the time! Came back down the same way. People were postholing to their hips on different paths. Punched through some soft snow spots with running water underneath but nothing bad occurred. Follow me on instagram @dchromey253 for more adventures and climbs! Got Adams, Baker, (maybe Whitehorse?), another Whitney trip, Rainier in July and of course spontaneous adventures! Gear Notes: Crampons, Ice Axe, Helmet "just in case" Approach Notes: Start Early. its a beauty being in the shade. Hot on the glacier around 9am

Just to be clear, this is not me or anyone I know! Just sent to me.....

Brandon Seymore and I (Cliff Agocs) climbed this line in May of 2016. We chose it because it looked a little less heady than the Ravine. At the time, the first pitch was WI 3+ or so. The upper bits were moderate mixed. We never even considered if it might be a first ascent. It's hard to imagine any particular spot on Mount Hood still being unclimbed. There are probably some WI exceptions at different parts of the year on the North Buttress and on the Black Spider. However, on a moderate feature like the Eliot Headwall, it's pretty unimaginable that someone hasn't already wandered up into whatever patch of ice you climb. It is a fun route and a proud send, but it's not an FA. It's the Eliot Headwall - one of many variations. I'm happy to attach photos later, but they are on the harddrive of another computer that I don't have access to today. Happy to attach them, if folks want.

I want boulderers off the rocks. they are dangerous.

Trip: Mclellan Peak - NE Couloir Trip Date: 05/02/2021 Trip Report: My friend Matt and I climbed the NE Couloir of Mclellan earlier this month. I've been intrigued by it since seeing an old Jens Holsten blog post a couple years ago and not being able to find anything else about it otherwise. Theres a brief mention of a route on Mclellan in the WA ice guidebook. I waffled about writing this up because I think the Stuart Range doesn't have a lot of options for solitude. I'm sure people will still flock to the usual spring classics. I settled on doing a more lazy, bare bones style trip report on this to shed some light. Social media is your best friend for seeing conditions of popular faces in the range. The route is fairly short. Similar in length and difficulty to the NW Couloir of Eldorado. Its likely to be easier early season (duh), but it seems likely to have large cornices at the snowfield/ridge at the top out. Theres two exit options, the left (hidden, except maybe from the northwest) being shorter and slightly easier. This gives a bit of contingency with route and cornice conditions. In the conditions we had I'd say it was WI3. First two pitches, taken later in the morning on the decent back to camp: Matt coming up firm snow after the first ice pitch: Second pitch: Early April 2017. The first ice pitch is completely buried: Gear Notes: Pins, screws, rock pro to 1". Emphasis on small gear. Pickets if you'd like, we didn't take any. Approach Notes: Snow Lakes. Leave the trail at the western-most footbridge above Upper Snow Lake. Decend via the standard route.

This week's installment of Slurpee Death, brought to you by Mount Shuksan..... tune in next Monday for the main event on the Coleman Headwall!