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Trip: Three O Clock Rock - Road to Nowhere, Mystery Tour Trip Date: 07/20/2018 Trip Report: Hey, a quick update about some new options up at 3 O’Clock Rock...for those that care. Year after year, it seems that over 95% of Washington climbers find zero appeal in hiking to easy slab climbs. But that just keeps the quiet experience for the dedicated regulars and newcomers. Andy and I added an easy (~5.3) slab climb a bit right of Silent Running that features two short pitches. Road to Nowhere has proven a fun outing for novice slab climbers. If you want more challenge, try it hands free (though the FHFA has already been done). You will need 5 draws and one 70 m rope to get up and down. If you’re up for a more difficult experience and/or other parties are lined up for Silent Running, continue another 4 pitches up Mystery Tour, which wanders to the right-hand edge of the North Buttress (topo below). The second pitch of Mystery Tour (5.9+) is the standout, featuring 58 m of very sustained slab climbing. From there, continue up the rounded buttress at 5.8 and then a shorter pitch that ties into Silent Running. More beta and gear details are below. Currently, the easiest descent is down Silent Running, though we hope to have a separate rappel route tuned up in the near future. Leah on Road to Nowhere, pitch 1 Matt approaching the rounded buttress on pitch 3 of Mystery Tour. Climbers below and left are one pitch up Road to Nowhere Route topo Gear Notes: For Mystery Tour, you'll want double 60s, a single set of cams to 2" and ~14 draws. About 80% of pro is bolts. Approach Notes: FS road #2060 to Eight-mile trailhead, then 45 minutes of easy uphill (standard 3 O Clock Rock approach)

Hey Climbers, this is Mike from Leavenworth Mountain Association. Beginning September 3 the Forest Service will enforce a permanent parking closure on Mountaineer Creek Road. Here is what you need to know. Beginning September 3rd there will be no parking along the road except in Eightmile and Stuart Lake Trailheads. There are no changes to the Enchantment permit system or any wilderness regulations. There is no restriction on how many people can enter, hike, climb or travel through the wilderness. Changing these rules would require public comment and collaboration. Campsites and parking on spur roads, like the Mountaineer Creek Bivy will remain open, and LMA will keep it's toilet there. There will be no restriction on driving on the road, shuttling, or dropping off passengers. Parking will be first-come, first served. Overnight permit holders will not be guaranteed a parking spot and will compete with other users. The Forest Service plans to educate the public, and enforce (ticket) people illegally parked as necessary. This parking ban does not effect Snow Creek Trailhead or Icicle Road. The reason given for the closure is that the toilets and garbage at the trailhead are unsanitary. Lack of access for emergency vehicles was also given as a reason. The Forest Service came to this decision in early summer but has not informed anyone until now. LMA promotes climbing access and environmental protection. We are concerned that this plan does not address these core issues in the Enchantments. We need to hear from the climbing community while we consider our response.

We climbed Magic and Mixup to celebrate our first wedding anniversary ( we did an entertaining corkscrew girdle traverse of Magic, that was...loose) and as I recall the summit registers on both peaks made for great reading. Lots of local history in there.

Kids, I was with the wife! Or maybe we were still dating....not exactly sure of the year. Need to review my slides (!).

UKC article Nice work gents!!