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#667746 - 04/10/07 11:36 PM [TR] King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest 3/31/2007 *****
Sol Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1639
TRs: 30 Photos: 401
Loc: leavenworth
Trip: King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest

Date: 3/31/2007

Trip Report:
Since first reading about it, Vision Quest, a Jeff Achey first ascent classic, has been tripping around my brain for the better part of 2 years. In his guidebook to Indian Creek, David Bloom bluntly describes it as, "a burly route on the east face of the king of pain." Fast forward to Spring 2007, and the end of a much too short springbreak vacation. With 10 weeks of calculus and chemistry awaiting him in Washington, Tyree is super-hyped to end the trip memorably.

The King of Pain Spires, Vision Quest climbs the gash between the two towers:




P1: fingers in a corner to loose blocks, shitty gear, and a bad anchor, 5.10:




P2: Bloom writes, "the first slot is easier and better protected and more fun than it appears, the second is not," 5.10:




Get some you effervescent sack of Washington softness:







Wild moves lead out of the slot to the belay:






P3: A short offwidth to steep fists to wild overhanging flared hands, 5.10+:




P4: Crazy: a steep groove leads to loco stemming between the two spires, and a spicy loose topout, 5.9+. Here's Ty just past the flare:




Looking up at the loco stemming:




The summit was rad, with great views of Indian Creek and the Six Shooters. Lucky for us we ran into wide crack aficianondo Ari Menitove on the way down and he guided us away from these notorious rope-eating grooves, thanks Ari! Beware:




Overall, the route was great. The climbing was good, sustained, and challenging. As with most desert tower climbing there is a bit of crappy gear and spicy climbing, but as long as the 700 pound loose blocks and chockstones stay in place you'll be fine.

Gear Notes:
Rack of doubles from green alien to #4 camalots, extra #3's and 3.5's, single BD #5 and #6. Two ropes to rap. For more info and discussion visit: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/indian_creek/105717655

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#667804 - 04/11/07 08:20 AM Re: [TR] King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest 3/31/20 [Re: Sol]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11676
TRs: 4 Photos: 871
Loc: pdx
Holy shit thats a spicy meatball!

Thanks for doing that one so I can vicariously enjoy it from the comfort of home and thus save my weak ass for something more sane:-)

GRREEEEAAATTTTT TR and love that photo sequence Frosty!

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#667815 - 04/11/07 08:50 AM Re: [TR] King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest 3/31/2007 [Re: Sol]
fgw Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/15/04
Posts: 553
TRs: 19 Photos: 90
Loc: Portland, OR
Nice! Been wanting to try that one.

If you liked the loco stemming pitch, you'd love the final pitch of Window Route on Echo Pinnalce.

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#667829 - 04/11/07 09:21 AM Re: [TR] King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest 3/31/2007 [Re: fgw]
kevbone Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 12/31/04
Posts: 15364
TRs: 3 Photos: 292
Loc: land of the little people.
_________________________
All you need is love.....

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#667831 - 04/11/07 09:27 AM Re: [TR] King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest 3/31/2007 [Re: kevbone]
DirtyHarry Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 07/28/04
Posts: 3571
TRs: 5 Photos: 44
Nice guys. That one looks rad!
_________________________
Watch yer top knot.

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#667936 - 04/11/07 01:01 PM Re: [TR] King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest 3/31/20 [Re: Sol]
samc Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/02/06
Posts: 4
TRs: 2 Photos: 0
Loc: Seattle, WA
So what was ari's beta for the descent? Did you guys rap off the bolts on the north King of Pain tower to the notch between the Butte and the rest of the Bridger Jacks?


Edited by samc (04/11/07 01:01 PM)
_________________________
"I can climb 5.10 with me brush" - Heavy Duty on establishing new routes in SE Utah.

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#667941 - 04/11/07 01:15 PM Re: [TR] King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest 3/31/20 [Re: samc]
Weekend_Climberz Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 08/04/02
Posts: 3403
TRs: 4 Photos: 139
Loc: Overlooking Elliot Bay
Cool Pics

The desert is the place to be.
_________________________
Weekday Sprayer

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#668023 - 04/11/07 04:17 PM Re: [TR] King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest 3/31/20 [Re: samc]
Sol Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1639
TRs: 30 Photos: 401
Loc: leavenworth
Originally Posted By: samc
So what was ari's beta for the descent? Did you guys rap off the bolts on the north King of Pain tower to the notch between the Butte and the rest of the Bridger Jacks?


yep, rapped off the north tower into the notch. the beta from ari was to not get our ropes stuck on the first Wild Flower rappel from the notch. not only was there the first set of grooves in the picture to get you knot past, but there was also a second set of grooves a bit lower. i got to watch ari do a knot moving technique in which instead of feeding both ropes on the rappel he locked off one strand and fed the other, effectively moving the knot with him until it had cleared both sets of grooves. never seen that technique before, good beta, just watch the ends of your ropes.

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#668433 - 04/12/07 01:47 PM Re: [TR] King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest 3/31/20 [Re: Sol]
Adventureboy Offline
journeyman

Registered: 08/04/05
Posts: 72
TRs: 2 Photos: 5
Loc: Earth
Awesome to see youre pics.
Congrats gentlemen, looks like you both earned it in the wide.
It's always satisfying when you have to do battle with bigness. Just adds that much more to the memory.
_________________________
May the Dark Master be with you.

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#668840 - 04/13/07 09:04 AM Re: [TR] King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest 3/31/20 [Re: Sol]
bgagosian Offline
stranger

Registered: 10/13/06
Posts: 6
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Nice trip report. I did this route last spring around this same time. It is a very spicy but fun route. I didn't realize how big the OW got. Only brought to 3.5. Sure could have used one of those #5's. Gotta love the bridger jack towers!

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#669040 - 04/13/07 02:03 PM Re: [TR] King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest 3/31/20 [Re: bgagosian]
tyree Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/11/02
Posts: 285
TRs: 10 Photos: 68
Sure the 5 would have been nice but it was of no real use on route. I placed it behind this flake/chock stone that if called upon to catch a fall would have almost certainly blown out of the crack, but your right it was better than nothing. Nice TR Sol- thanks for the good times! sickie

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#674912 - 04/29/07 10:12 PM Re: [TR] King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest 3/31/20 [Re: tyree]
EWolfe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 04/21/03
Posts: 10567
TRs: 3 Photos: 559
bad ass.

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