[TR] Hyalite - winds of change 12/19/2006

[John Frieh]

Trip: Hyalite - winds of change

 

Date: 12/19/2006

 

Trip Report:

Guilty Parties:

 

Mark Harro (insert favorite brokeback mtn joke here):

Marcus D (Kumbaya My Lord... Kumbaya):

 

So the plan was BBB in CO but the windstorm Thursday canceled our flights so MD and I reset and headed for Hyalite as word on the street was Narcolepsy was in... Narcolepsy was put up in 1995 and as far as anybody knows hasn't been in since then. That and Hyalite is going off this year...

 

alpine drive start:

 

mandatory stop in Hood River:

 

Daniel Harro put me in contact with his bro Mark (Daniel and Mark are the other Team Harro ) who was kind enough to let us couch surf at his place.

 

As it was so balmy

 

we opted for later starts (or alpine starts if your name is Bryan Schmitz ) on routes that catch morning sun so they would be more plastic instead of brittle. It just so turns out Narcolepsy is east facing so we headed up there on Sunday (Narc on the right):

 

We must have had the right idea as we ran into Joe Josephson (JoJo) at the base of Narc... JoJo is a funny SOB and very cool guy.

 

JoJo spouting beta :grlaf: :

 

JoJo on Narc:

 

Marcus gets his turn:

 

 

Marko:

 

While we waited for JoJo's group we gave lurking smear (another rarely formed route just CL of Narc) a go but the morning sun had delamed it so we bailed:

 

After we all earned our Narc merit badge we stopped at champagne sherbet on the way back to the car:

 

 

Monday Marcus and I snuck a quick lap on the good looking one before headed back home.

 

Marcus looking good on the good looking one:

 

 

Quotable quotes:

 

...you know... I can totally understand how disappointing it must be for you guys to not be from Alaska...

 

...well in JoJo's book he said...I AM JOJO!!!!! THAT'S ME!!!

 

...Hey! Leave some ice for the rest of us! ...I making an ice sculpture! I'm making a swan! ...Make me a dolphin!

 

...I'll just get extra cheese on my omelet... that should plug me up long enough so I don't have to dump in the woods.

 

...THE PENGUIN PUMP!

 

...oh... THAT Bryan Schmitz...

 

...that's creamy Brazilian...

 

...Hey Mr. Guidebook Author guy... where is the next tool placement? IN YOUR BUTTHOLE!

 

...my tools are definitely not limiting my climbing.

 

...the power is still out at my house so I bivyed in the Pearl

 

...cc.com?!?! Oh that website where everyone is too chickenshit to use their real name...

 

...any day I tie in is a good day. Any day I tie in and swing a tool is a great day. But any day I tie in, swing a tool and sleep in my own bed is an excellent day...

 

If you still aren't sold compare this pic to the one in your guidebook... can you say fat?

 

Gear Notes:

stumptown

 

Etc:

if the gate goes in next year this could be your last year to climb a lot of these climbs unless you own a big snowmachine

[Weekend_Climberz]

Nice , maybe Lillooet isn't looking so good now. Hmmmmm....

[pup_on_the_mountain]

Awesome John!!

WTF am I doing sitting in my office...

[billcoe]

Damn it's nice to see someone else getting on something! I think the rest of the board is going stir crazy either worrying about the climbers on Mt Hood, or all the shitheads showing up with 1 or 2 posts which are unbeliveably stupid and or arrogant.

 

BTW, in keeping with the boards current groove and attitude: you misspelled Phat, asshole. ie.

can you say fat?

[billcoe]

I'm working on it.

[treknclime]

Schweeet, John! Nice work...looks like you guys had some good fun!

[BillA]

Nice John! Looks awesome, we were wondering if Narc was in... My update: last night my partner drunkenly got on a snowmobile with our friend and they rolled it off an embankment and threw themselves through a barbed wire fence. His elbow is the size of a grapefruit. Now it's a beautiful bluebird day in Bozeman and no climbing. Ugh.

[Lambone]

sweet john! I wanna go with you next time!

[jimurl]

Sorry Bill A.,

 

Such is the hazard with a snow machine.

 

Pray for vehicular (coffee in the AM, Beer in the PM) access.