[TR] Red Rock National Conservation Area - 11/25/

[Wolfgang Braun]

Trip: Red Rock National Conservation Area -

 

Date: 11/25/2008

 

Trip Report:

Took a trip down to the beautiful Red Rocks from Tuesday 11/25 to Tuesday 12/2.

 

Tuesday morning we woke up very early to catch our flight scheduled to leave at 7:30 A.M. After a short 2 hour flight we landed at McCarran Airport in Las Vegas, Nevada. We took care of our stuff and headed to our hotel. This year we decided to stay at Mandalay Bay, and soon found out that it is a very nice Casino/Hotel.

 

After getting checked in and getting our baggage to our room, we headed to the Red Robin to eat, and had a good meal. We decided that we wanted to go do a little climbing with the remaining time left in the day.

 

We headed down to Desert Rock Sports to see if we could get some beta on the best place to climb when it rains.(It was fore casted to rain for a few days). We bought a guide to the limestone around the Las Vegas area in this nice little climbing shop.

 

We decided that we were going to get in a few quick pitches at the Cannibal Boulder. It is a big boulder that lies a short 5 minutes hike from the road. It has some very fun pitches on it. We started out by warming up on the 'classic' route of the boulder called Caustic Cock. Rated at 5.11C, we figured that it would be a good warm up. It was a very fun route with fun jugs up an overhanging arete. After that I was feeling good and wanted to try a slightly overhanging 5.12a on the middle of the main face of the boulder. I was soon to find out that it was very crimpy and fun. On the onsight I made it past the crux, only to find myself stumped at a move pulling onto a slab at the end. I tried the move and whipped off. I went back up and climbed the route to the top. Next we went to a very overhanging 5.11a on the right side of the boulder. I found out that it was pretty stout for the grade, but fun nonetheless. After that it was getting dark and we decided to get in one more route. We did a very fun 5.11B to end our short day of climbing.

 

The next day (Wednesday) it was very rainy and climbing was out of the question at Red Rocks. We decided to go and check out Mount Charleston. We went to the Robber's Roost area and discovered that there was snow all over the ground. The wall looked very fun with some very cool pockets. The snow was melting and the fog was thick, so climbing was out of the question. We decided to head further up the mountain to see some of the limestone walls that it had.

 

During a short break in the clouds, we managed to get these pictures:

 

 

 

The next day (Thursday) was raining in the morning so we decided to lay low and go on a hike. We went to the Third Pullout (Sandstone Quarry), and hiked back to The Trophy. It looked like an incredible wall with lots of fun climbs. After our hike we headed back to Las Vegas and cruised the Strip that night. We walked so much that our feet were aching horribly by the time we were back at our Casino.

 

The next day (Friday) was a climbing day, the sky was finally blue and the rock was dry. We headed up to the Wall of Confusion so that I could redpoint Fear and Loathing III. We warmed up on a very fun 5.10C on the left side of the wall.

 

Here is Hans cruising it:

 

 

After that we headed to Fear and Loathing III. It is such an incredible line with super fun, pumping climbing. I got it first try hanging the draws. I was happy to send it as I had worked it on 2 different trips.

 

 

 

After that we headed over to The Gallery. I was wanting to get on The Glitch, which is 5.12c/d, as it is a very cool looking line. The first time I climbed it i made it about 1/2 the way up the wall before falling. After I figured out the crux, I made it to the top with only a few hangs. I realized that this route was one of the best that I had ever climbed.

 

Heres a picture climbing through the amazing bottom part of the route:

 

 

Heres a picture of the move getting to the hold before the crux. It's a pretty wild one and includes cutting your feet:

 

 

Heres a picture of the crux move. If only I was a little taller I would be able to skip the horrible intermediate holds:

 

 

Those were all pictures of my first try on The Glitch.

 

After resting up a while I decided to give it another go. I made it up to the crux again, and fell doing the move. After I fell i bat-manned back up and finished the route. (My mom did not take any pictures of this go at it).

 

It was getting pretty warm on The Gallery toward the hottest time of the day, so we decided to head to the Sweet Pain Wall. We had climbed on it last year and it was really fun. I needed to go back and send Sweet Pain, which is 5.12a, as I had not done it last year. I got the redpoint the first try hanging the draws. It is a really fun route.

 

Heres a picture of the Redpoint:

 

 

After that i decided to climb a newer route on the wall which is rated 5.11a. It was pretty fun, although quite sharp compared to the other routes I had been climbing that day. (No pictures of this one).

 

Next I decided to go and climb Rebel Without a Pause in the Black Corridor, which is rated 5.11a, and is quite sandbag. It was fun as always.

 

That was our last route of the day as I was getting very tired.

 

The next day (Saturday) we were thinking about going back to The Gallery, but driving by we noticed that it was a complete zoo. We decided to go to The Pier and do some routes. When we got there it was a nice, good climbing temp on the wall. We warmed up on one of the coolest 5.10B's ever, Under the Boardwalk. My dad and I climbed it.

 

Here is a picture of it midway up the route:

 

 

Here is a picture of it toward the top at the quite hard for 5.10B crux:

 

 

After that I went to a 5.11B called Basement on the left side of the Crag. It was quite stiff for the grade, yet very fun.

 

Here is a picture of it:

 

 

After that I headed to a route called Geometric Progression, which is rated 5.12B. It was very fun and had some cool moves.

 

Next was a route called cling free, which was rated 5.12B. It was very fun.

 

After that I did a route called Thirsty Quail, which was 5.12B. It was really fun as it was pretty much just a bolted crack climb. It was the last route of the day on this wall, as I did a couple laps on each route. We do not have any pictures of the 5.12's as Hans deleted them all when he was messing with the camera.

 

The next day (Sunday) was a rest day. We hung out for most of the day, and went to Circus Circus' Adventure Dome in the Evening. We rode lots of rides and played a lot of Lazer Tag whilst we were there. It was a fun night.

 

The next day (Monday) was a climbing day. We decided that we were going to go climbing at The Gallery, as it would not be as busy, being a weekday.

 

When we got there we decided to warm up on a very cool 5.10C called Running Amuck.

 

Here is a picture of it:

 

 

After that I top roped a fun 5.11a called name unknown right next to it. It was pretty fun with some cool incuts.

 

Heres a picture of Hans on the bottom part of it:

 

 

Next was time to get back on The Glitch. My first go of the day went well. I made it up through the bottom part very good up to the crux. I fell trying to grab the crux hold on this go, as i had forgot what to do with my feet, but I had made some progress.

 

Heres a picture of the go at it:

 

 

I rested up a while and decided to give The Glitch another go. This was the sending attempt. I cruised up to the crux, got my feet set, and stuck the crux hold. After the crux I managed to get a good rest in a big, really cool hueco. After I got enough back, I climbed through the upper moves to the anchor, I was absolutely excited. The send was on my fourth go.

 

Here is a picture starting the route on the send try:

 

 

Here is a picture doing the move to get to the crux:

 

 

Here is a picture sticking the crux hold:

 

 

Here is a picture after the send:

 

 

After that Hans wanted to do some leading, so he led the 5.8, Sport Climbing is Neither on The Gallery.

 

Here is a picture of Hans leading it:

 

 

Hans then led a 5.9 and a 5.10A. He did very well. (We do not have any pictures of these).

 

After I sent The Glitch, I decided that I would start to work on The Gift, which is rated 5.12D. It is a well known route, and probably one of the best at the second pullout. My first try I went easy taking it bolt to bolt, and trying to figure out the moves on my way up. When I reached the crux, which is at the last bolt, I figured it out quite quickly and climbed to the top. I realized that this route didn't have any moves harder than The Glitch, it was just an endurance thing. You have to climb 5.12a/b to get to a bad rest, right in the middle of the wall. After that you have some bouldery moves that lead to some holds right at the last bolt. Right after the last bolt, the 5.1c/d crux hits. A horrible right hand gaston to a long reach with the left hand to a horrible little two finger edge. After that you have to pull up to some sloping holds and do a big mantle/deadpoint to get to the holds at the lip.

 

Heres a picture of the first crux of The Gift, around bolt 2:

 

 

Heres a picture of a hard move up into an undercling around bolt 3:

 

 

Heres a picture of a hard move around bolt 4:

 

 

Heres a picture of a hard 2 finger lie back getting to the holds at the last bolt:

 

 

Heres a picture of the crux move above the last bolt:

 

 

After I worked it the first time Hans decided that he would give it a go on toprope. After he led some 5.10 climbs he was all jazzed and ready to try Just Do It. He hung his way up The Gift with my help of pulling him up.

 

Here is a picture of Hans on The Gift, doing the hard move into the undercling:

 

 

Next I decided to try The Gift again and try to get the Redpoint. I made it up to the rest, got a little bit back, and then climbed to the crux. I got into the gaston at the crux and fell going for the horrible little two finger edge. I then rested and climbed to the top.

 

After I tried The Gift again, I did a super fun 5.11B called A Day In The Life. It had awesome incuts and good movement.

 

Heres a picture toward the top of the route:

 

 

It was the last route of the day, as I was very tired from climbing 70 ft long overhanging 5.12's all day.

 

The next day (Tuesday) was a climbing day, but also our last day in Las Vegas. Our flight was scheduled to leave around 9:30 P.M. We woke up early and had to pack our bags. We then headed out to Red Rocks. We were going to go back up to The Gallery, so that I could get back on The Gift, and try to send it on our last day.

 

When we got to The Gallery, Hans wanted to lead the warm up route. It was called Buck's Muscle World, and was rated 5.9. Hans is becoming a good leader.

 

Here is a picture of Hans leading the Warm Up Route:

 

 

I followed the route to clean it.

 

Here is a picture of me climbing the route:

 

 

Next we went to Running Amuck, which is rated 5.10C. Hans wanted to lead it. Hans led it no problem.

 

Heres a picture of Hans cruising it:

 

 

I followed the route and cleaned it.

 

Next I toproped the Name Unknown 5.11a again. (No Pictures of This One)

 

Hans was seeking a 5.10D redpoint, so he headed to a route on the left side of The Gallery called Range of Motion. Hans went up it the first time and worked out the moves. The next time he sent it.

 

Here is a picture of Hans getting his hardest redpoint yet:

 

 

I went back to The Gift to try and give it a redpoint burn. I made it up the the crux once again and fell off going for the horrible two finger edge.

 

I came back down and rested. After I was rested I went up to give it the last go of the trip. I made it up to the crux once again. When I pulled up and went for the little two finger edge, I realized that my right hand was not set good enough on the gaston and fell. So I did not send The Gift this trip. I will be back to get on it again!

 

Heres a picture of the crux at the second bolt:

 

 

Heres the crux at the fourth bolt:

 

 

That concluded our climbing trip to Las Vegas, Nevada.

We'll be back next year Vegas!

Edited December 4, 2008 by Wolfgang Braun

[JBo6]

Are those prehung cable draws next to The Glitch? What is the story behind those?

[JBo6]

Oh yeah, sweet pictures, way to climb stuff that looks pretty fawkin tricky.

[Wolfgang Braun]

I'm not quite sure. There was one of them on The Glitch.

[111]

After reading that I feel like I have the beta to all of the second turnout!

[marc_leclerc]

Lucky... that looks like lots of fun... all the talk of 5.12's gives me an itchin to send my project..

[cman]

Nice pics! I need a little sport climbing in the sun. I was there last year but it was too hot to climb at the gallery, looks like some fun stuff.

[Otto]

Big fun in the Sun! Way to go, and thanks for the pics.

[james_e]

Way to get after it! Nice pics!

[DirtyHarry]

The youth of today. Right on.

[Wolfgang Braun]

After reading that I feel like I have the beta to all of the second turnout!

Cool. I just liked to describe all the routes. Pretty much to tell what was happening in the pictures!

[Wolfgang Braun]

Lucky... that looks like lots of fun... all the talk of 5.12's gives me an itchin to send my project..

It was a ton of fun. Lots of good routes to climb. The weather was a little warm a couple of the days, but was very comfortable when not climbing. The weather was high 60's to mid 70's.

[Wolfgang Braun]

Nice pics! I need a little sport climbing in the sun. I was there last year but it was too hot to climb at the gallery, looks like some fun stuff.

Thanks! The Gallery can tend to be a sun trap. It is the place to be on cold days, and the place to avoid on the really hot days! All of the routes on The Gallery are great, and super fun.

[Wolfgang Braun]

Big fun in the Sun! Way to go, and thanks for the pics.

It was definitely a lot of fun in the sun! Thanks, and you are welcome for the pics. It was fun making up this trip report!

[Wolfgang Braun]

Way to get after it! Nice pics!

Thanks! I'll have to wait till next time to send The Gift though!

[Wolfgang Braun]

The youth of today. Right on.

Thanks!

 

[zoroastr]

HEY! You kids get down from there! Somebody could get hurt!

[Braydon]

geez...i wish my dad would take me out of school to go climbing.

[Sherri]

Way to go, guys! Makes me smile just thinkin' of all the fun you look like you were having.

[PhöQ]

Looks great man! I lived in Vegas for 8 years and savor every minute at Red Rocks.

But we spent most of our time in the canyons, there are alot better and more "diverse" climbing opportunities than can be found at the pullouts.

 

Trad routes and natural scenery inspire me more than repeated shots of some overworked/overbolted boulder problem.

 

I got the redpoint the first try hanging the draws.

[Wolfgang Braun]

HEY! You kids get down from there! Somebody could get hurt!

I'll be safe!

[Wolfgang Braun]

Way to go, guys! Makes me smile just thinkin' of all the fun you look like you were having.

Thanks!

[Wolfgang Braun]

Way to go, guys! Makes me smile just thinkin' of all the fun you look like you were having.

Thanks!

 

It was a ton of fun.