b-rock Posted January 22, 2003 Posted January 22, 2003 What is the most versitile picket length for Cascades snow? Somehow I ended up with two 3 foot MSRs, and that seems way overkill in my limited experience for the hard snow we get here. I was thinking about cutting one in half to make two 18 inch pickets. Too short? Too short to use as a deadman in softer snow? Thx. Quote
iain Posted January 22, 2003 Posted January 22, 2003 whatever the short MSR length is seems to be good and strong Quote
b-rock Posted January 22, 2003 Author Posted January 22, 2003 That be 2 feet. Maybe I should just cut a foot off to make a two footer and throw the rest away.... Quote
Dru Posted January 22, 2003 Posted January 22, 2003 just get some 2 footers and save the 3 footers for chimney pro. Quote
mattp Posted January 22, 2003 Posted January 22, 2003 (edited) I state this just about every time this topic comes up and just about every time I state this I get flames for it, but I have found pickets to rarely be useful in the Cascades because for the most part the snow is too soft for me to really think I could rely on a picket and if it is technical ground I'm looking for rock pro or ice instead. Occasonally there is some good harpack of some kind or maybe rime but I usually don't belay on that kind of surface and, if I do, I am hesitant to trust a picket alone. I carry pickets on most winter outings, and in summer snow they sometimes make a pretty good anchor if buried sideways like a deadman. Oh yes, and I like the two footers. Edited January 22, 2003 by mattp Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 22, 2003 Posted January 22, 2003 I think pickets are great in the summer on volcanoes when crossing sketchy shit. I have even used them on technical ground when trying simul climb and dump them on the guy following mostly so I didn't have to carry them any more One time while climbing on the Kautz glacier and my partner was alt sick. I was happy to have 2 when descending in fear that he would drag my ass into a crevasse so we belayed on one section. Â 2-3 feet should be fine for many uses. I think in winter they are more valuable for staking down a tent but hey you can use other things to do that as well... Quote
iain Posted January 22, 2003 Posted January 22, 2003 I agree on volcanos, find them pretty useful on hood and you definitely place them quickly to get your second to carry the cowbells. Quote
CascadeClimber Posted January 22, 2003 Posted January 22, 2003 I only have 24" pickets. In my experience, I can't think of a time when a 24 didn't work well, but a 36 would have. Â YMMV Quote
plexus Posted January 22, 2003 Posted January 22, 2003 Don't know why you would cut off a foot from your 3' pickets. It's not like they are that heavy, so you'd save what 6 ounces on each picket? Â Just keep them as they are, who knows you might need that extra foot one day. Â Capt. agree with the need for pickets on the volcanos...or any glacier that has suspect parts or with newbies. Maybe I'm a little gunshy since falling through a snowbridge Quote
genepires Posted January 22, 2003 Posted January 22, 2003 I have done lots of placing and pulling on pickets in the cascades summer snow. Pulled many a man and woman out of slots here. IMO, the 18" picket is very adequate for crevase rescue. You will have two of these 18" pickets equalized for the anchor I assume. 2 of these 18" pickets equalized is stronger than one 3' picket alone, as there is more snow holding the picket in place. (buried deadman style) The snow that holds the deadman is not only the snow directly in front but a bit to the sides as well. For fun (???) we bury various crazy things and see if we can yank it out. Even with three big guys and a static cord we couldn't get Nalgenes and softball sized rocks out of GOOD HARD snow. So if these things will work, why not a short picket? For summer use, cut one 3' picket up and save the other 3' for crazy winter use. Quote
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