Risky Belay technique?

[wayne]

The jump off: https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2016/04/20/index-4-16-big-weekend-and-close-call/

[Bronco]

Nice save!

[layton]

reading my book wayne?

[Pete_H]

Any post game analysis as to why the gear failed?

[genepires]

If I even manage to rock climb again, I want Wayne to belay me. That is some great belay technique and analysis. I don't think most belayers would have the wherewithal to know to jump down to remove enough slack. Old school knowledge.

[ivan]

seriously, i'dve been scared i'dve spilt my damn beer :

[wayne]

Pete: Looking at the order in which the pulled pieces lay on his harness, He may have put in an over-cammed placement, then an undercammed one. He was doing a layback too, so in the blind. The crack is very solid, it was a shock to hear them pull.

[billcoe]

I want you belaying me (OK, just repeating what Gene already said). Nice catch Wayne. The classic belay story you've told is Tim Olsen catching you on Wind Mountain with his bare hands as you'd started up before he even had his harness on then pulled a rock.