Cpt.Caveman Posted January 7, 2003 Share Posted January 7, 2003 (edited) http://www.climbingwashington.com/classics/freeway.htm (You can make the route 5.10 if you purposely avoid using one particularly chiseled-looking hold. Maybe the rock just broke out that way during cleaning, like some of the other nice edges along the way.) While climbing, enjoy the sounds of nearby freeway traffic, and if you're lucky, gunfire from the quarry across the valley. The route would get four stars except for the fact that it has a few too many bolts. Hopefully when the crews come to develop other routes on the slab they will make the runouts a little more sporting. Seems like it got downrated by Smoot Edited January 7, 2003 by Cpt.Caveman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 7, 2003 Author Share Posted January 7, 2003 i forgot the poll Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted January 7, 2003 Share Posted January 7, 2003 screw that, I can get all that action at Rocky Butte. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 7, 2003 Author Share Posted January 7, 2003 Yeah but it's way more classic than many other lines in the state Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted January 7, 2003 Share Posted January 7, 2003 damn... I guess I have to go climb in washington so I can partake in the poll.... I hate it when that happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted January 7, 2003 Share Posted January 7, 2003 A number of climbing areas near freeways come to mind. Rocky Butte in Portland is one of the worst I've ever encountered. When I saw the header for this post I immediately thought you were referring to a crag in Salt Lake City (can't remember the name) that is right across canyon and freeway from a gun range. Very disconcerting to hear caps popping whilst working a sketchy move. Chipping holds with a .45? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted January 7, 2003 Share Posted January 7, 2003 "Very disconcerting to hear caps popping whilst working a sketchy move." Do you ever get to Index? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted January 7, 2003 Share Posted January 7, 2003 Freeway climbing can be fun. When I lived in Oxnard, CA (town slogan: "more than just a pretty name"), I used to spend quite a few lunchbreaks cranking the two short (25') finger cracks formed between forms of a Hwy 101 onramp retaining wall. One of them had a tough tips section that always forced me to dyno for the lip; Caught a lounging lizard's skull under a fingertip one time. I ignored the squirming sensation, and pulled up eye level to the lip to see the bloody carnage. Some splatter, and a corpse that kept twitching after I was able to move my hand. There were some glued on pebbles for climbing too. Some years later, CalTrans painted over the place with graffiti-washable paint. Upped the difficulty, apparently. In San Diego, I've climbed under I15 on some pretty desperate crimpers, and in Bakersfield I've done some other glued-on traverses on bridges over the Kern river (it's humbling to be given beta by a wino). And there's supposed to be many climbs in smelLA. The spectacle of climbing on freeways highlights the absurdity that the sport can generate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted January 7, 2003 Share Posted January 7, 2003 After the hype-fest last fall I went out and climbed this route by approaching the wrong way hopefully the new guide shows the better way. My verdict: it was ok. I was expecting an over-the-top bolt mess but it wasn't so bad. Certainly some of the bolts could have been omitted but so could some of the bolts on most bolted routes. If I hadn't read critical comments about the number of bolts I wouldn't have even thought about the issue. The climbing is mostly on medium-to-large edges with a hint of friction thrown in at the crux. The hold that Smoot refers to as "possibly chipped" was certainly beat on with a hammer. The odd thing is that the route is only a bit harder when it is avoided all together, so maybe the rock was a bit decomposed there. The gun fire seems no worse the day I was there than at Index and the route is much further away from the highway than the Fun Forest. The leader can see the belayer form the top by leaning out. The sunny exposure and fun well protected climbing will make this route popular - I bet it would be fun today. To say it is the best, or even one of the best, slab pitches in Washington is an exaggeration. This claim might backfire by creating unreasonable expectations. Go to the site Northbendclimbing.com and check it out. Seems that there is a new 5.8 route nearby. I honestly don't even remember what the rock in that area looks like but if you are looking for a moderate face routes to do close to Seattle I can't think of any better ones that are easily accessible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 7, 2003 Author Share Posted January 7, 2003 Maybe I'll include it on my www.superwashingtontopo.com website. There I will be selling topos for "classic lines" in wa. I'll be having one for Outer Space complete with bivy sites etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted January 7, 2003 Share Posted January 7, 2003 Ray-I'm looking forward to seeing your topos. Maybe instead of bivvy spots, you should note party ledges and snafflehound holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 7, 2003 Author Share Posted January 7, 2003 Matt I'll be happy to have your support. You can even chime in with corrections. I'll be sure to include bivvy spots and smokeout ledges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdietsch Posted January 7, 2003 Share Posted January 7, 2003 When I lived in Oxnard, CA not to many people will admit to that ... most lie and say they live in Ventura, supposedly more "romantic" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted January 8, 2003 Share Posted January 8, 2003 Speaking of Freeway climbing, the new massive interchange they are building over I-90 in Issaquah will have some sweet after work bouldering on it. Those artsy-fartsy leaves carved into the wall will be cool to climb on and the wall is high and textured. -------------------------------------------- I walked to the base of the FWGS slab before it was bolted and should have come back for it. The slab looks very classic in my humble opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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