[TR] Kahiltna Glacier, Alaska Range - SW ridge Mt. Francis, Radio Control, Bacon & Eggs 4/30/2014

[christophbenells 0]

Trip: Kahiltna Glacier, Alaska Range - SW ridge Mt. Francis, Radio Control, Bacon & Eggs

 

Date: 4/30/2014

 

Trip Report:

Ryan Irvin and I spent a month on the Kahiltna Glacier in perfect weather from April 23rd to May 23rd.

 

We climbed Mt. Francis by the east ridge, (with a partial snowboard descent) Radio Control Tower by a technical-seldom climbed line, snowboarded steep spines and couliors on Annie's Ridge, Southwest ridge of Mt. Francis, and bacon and eggs on the micro-moonflower.

 

It was all in all a pretty productive trip for this relative newcomer to alpine climbing. I did my first snow and ice climb (Mt. Hood's south side) not more than 4 years ago (though I grew up in the snow and charging around the Sierra Nevada year round)and my first real rock climbing experiences not more than 3 years ago.

 

Here is a bunch of pictures... ryanirvinphotography.com

 

Spantiks on the plane save on baggage fees

 

Beer by the river

 

TAT and Paul Roderick, Denali and Hunter

 

 

 

Base Camp locals

 

 

 

 

We went up a big coulior to access the east ridge of Mt. Francis, different than the normal route.

 

 

East Ridge crux

 

snow bollard rap

 

Snowboarding down the east ridge coulior

 

 

Our line on radio control tower

 

M4/5 crux

 

 

on top

 

Mt. Francis base climb

 

steep powder snowboarding

 

 

 

There were some super pro alpinists there (kyle dempster and scott adamson) and they were impressed by our snowboarding, was a nice ego boost.

 

 

 

We rode both these couliors

 

 

 

Mt Francis SW ridge (3,800', 5.8, 60 degree snow and ice)

 

 

 

We bivied half way up

 

 

rock step

 

 

 

The absolute worst part of the entire trip.

 

 

 

Almost done...but not before one more bivy

 

on the summit, not the clumping on thy boots,

 

 

Bacon and eggs

 

 

 

 

We cut our trip short 3 days on the glacier, and we got out just in time. 60 mph winds and 5 feet of snow came in over the next 5 days, our friend Bobby got stuck in the ruth. TAT gave us an hour to tear down our camp we had been in for 23 days...we barely made it in time!

 

They picked us up with two tourists, the look on their faces when they asked "whats in the plastic buckets?" was priceless. I don't think they thought they would be on vacation with 5 gallons of human feces..

 

Talkeetna was a totally different place when we got back!

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

DR> FRANKENSTEIN

 

Approach Notes:

Girlfriend drop off at pdx- dont stay at anchorage backpackers hostel- bummed ride off craigslist- TAT- splitboards w/phantoms and tlt's.

Edited July 16, 2014 by christophbenells

[CaleHoopes 0]

This was a totally amazing trip! Thanks for the awesome TR!

[mthorman 57]

Man it looks like you guys had an awesome trip! You climbed a bunch of really cool lines. Way to get after it!

[JasonG 655]

Great images as well, thanks!

[Stefan 14]

what an amazing time. jealousy!

[jrex 2]

Awesome trip, I love the luggage tag on your pack in one of the shots!!!

 

[lukeh 1]

Awesome! Especially love this image:

 

[Dave7 0]

Rad! What a trip

[Sol 3]

Nice looking trip!

 

PHANTOM SPLITBOARD BINDINGS!!

 

[denalidave 0]

Awesome! Especially love this image:

 

[christophbenells 0]

 

PHANTOM SPLITBOARD BINDINGS!!

 

 

the only way to go!!! thanks keffler!!!

 

 

 

[mountainsloth 43]

Awesome! Makes me think I could pull off a productive trip to Alaska. I dig your style of time spent out there with a bit of everything.