Coulee Mank chain anchors

[LUCKY]

Hardware store chains attached to 25 KN stainless steel FIXE ring anchors on multiple climbs...WTF...ID ten tee: error

The chains are not KN rated

Visually unacceptable: The chains can be seen from a long distance and cheapens the appearance of the route.

They are not Stainless Steel and will rust and be hard to replace.

The climber with the first accent was not ask.

The routes have all stainless steel approved climbing hardware except the MANK chains

Remove your MANK no questions ask!!!!!

 

 

[Otto]

Thanks for reporting this, Lucky. What climbing area is this in? Also, I'd like to know what "ID ten tee: error" means, just curious.

[Quarryographer]

ID10T...=)

[bwwakaranai]

hhmm, I guess I'd have to see them but isn't it somewhat standard to use non stainless (galvanized) screw gates and chains for anchors? Its pretty dry in Vantage so I'm guessing they'll last 20+ years. Sorry not defending the tactics of whomever put them in but just speaking from my own experience and having had used plenty of galvanized screw gates and chains for routes I put up I have to ask. At around 30+ dollars per anchor for all stainless steel hardware it seems like galvanized is a reasonable alternative, especially somewhere like Vantage, unless "coulee" is somewhere different.

[bwwakaranai]

after re-reading your post, it says chains connected to a stainless fixe RING anchor. That is sort of weird

[chris]

If I understand Lucky right, this mank chain is linked to these: LINK

 

Lucky, why not just remove it - unless it was attached with cold-shut links?

[Rad]

It's generally not good to mix metals because you can get galvanic corrosion. That only occurs in the presence of electrolyte (i.e. water that conducts electricity). In this situation galvanic corrosion might be extremely slow.

 

[LUCKY]

Someone added plated steel hardware store screw gates and chains to existing routes with Stainless Steel 25 KN Fixe ring anchors visually cheapening the routes and with out contacting the climber with the first accent.I would be OK with adding a bolt for protection, but mank'n up a route..NOT

ETHICS

The person in Question should get out there and remove there mank

 

 

[num1mc]

What they did was stupid, but no one has an obligation to contact the FA

[LUCKY]

Hardware store screw gates and chains added to FIXE anchors

WTF

[Woodcutter]

[img:center][/img]

 

Tyrol declration on best practice in mountain sports. Published in 2003 American Alpine Journal.

(If the picture works)

 

It's really small:

" We aim to preserve the original character of all climbs, most especially those with historical significance. This means that climbers should not increase fixed protection on existing routes. The exception is when there is local consensus - including agreement from the 1st ascensionists - to change the level of fixed protection by placing new gear or removing fixed gear" End quote

Edited September 25, 2013 by Woodcutter