tanstaafl Posted August 7, 2019 Posted August 7, 2019 I read Warren Harding's "Downward Bound" earlier this summer and there's an index of climbers in the back, rating them by their moral purity. Chouinard was the purest of course, and I believe that Bridwell was pretty pure but "lacks the overall pizzazz to be God." One climber I'd never heard of was mentioned, with a note that he'd found climbing too dull and had recently taken up whitewater kayaking, concluding that "we don't expect he'll be with us for long." Quote
JayB Posted August 8, 2019 Posted August 8, 2019 Wonder if the climber in question was Walt Shipley? Sadly prophetic if that was the case. Quote
tanstaafl Posted August 8, 2019 Posted August 8, 2019 16 minutes ago, JayB said: Wonder if the climber in question was Walt Shipley? Sadly prophetic if that was the case. It wasn't Shipley, *him* I'd heard of! It was Al McDonald, or a name close to that. Quote
Bronco Posted September 20 Posted September 20 From FB: Rockfall Ragged Edge, Vesper Peak. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Spooky season is upon us! For anyone looking to climb Ragged Edge, take note that there was significant rockfall last weekend between Saturday afternoon and Monday morning that altered the route significantly. @alpine_captain shared this summary of the changes: ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ A large amount of rock fell from the “edge” of the main slab, right where it becomes more of a roof (which the 5th pitch traverses above). The last 10-15 feet of the 4th pitch are now more difficult and the protection opportunities are limited. These moves are hard to protect for the second as they make the final moves to the belay and a fall for a follower here would likely involve swinging out into space. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ The belay at the top of the 4th pitch is now hanging, and the bolts are only ~4ft above the edge of the new section of roof. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ The beginning of the 5th pitch now sports a wide step-across move to small footholds, although the hands on either end of the span are good. This move is rather height/flexibility dependent. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ With more rain and drastic temperature swings expected this fall, keep those heads on a swivel! Rockfall events like this are hard to predict, but they often occur during or immediately after big weather events. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ #climbing #rockfall #pnw #vesper #update #cascademountainascents Quote
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