[TR] The Tooth - SW Face 6/22/2013

[willrock79]

Trip: The Tooth - SW Face

 

Date: 6/22/2013

 

Trip Report:

I lost a Garmin Cx60 (I think) GPS this past Saturday on a hike starting at the Snow Lake trailhead and then pushing east just above Source Lake and ending at the base of the SW face of The Tooth. I realized it was missing at the top of the slot gully just to the right of Pineapple Pass. If you found it, please return it. I am willing to give a cash reward. My email is willcornwell@gmail.com and phone number is 334-294-9245. Thank you!

 

Also, the route (actually, every route on the whole rock), was extremely crowded. There was a group of 3 in front of us that we had to wait over an hour to get past the first belay at a tree. We ended up bailing after sitting on the side of the rock in the scorching sun for two or three hours waiting on all the groups. It basically sucked, and the climbing wasn't good enough to justify all the hassle. Either one needs to be first on the rock or come late in the day when the traffic has thinned out.

[chris]

Don't be so frustrated - with its proximity to Seattle/Tacoma, easy access, and low difficulties The Tooth is many people's first alpine climb. So you should be prepared for crowds and well-intentioned gumbies on the weekend.

 

What we really need to do is develop alternative climbs nearby. I'm curious about traversing Denny Mountain along the ridge top from Pineapple Pass to the top of Chair 2, and finding more technical lines up Hemlock and Bryant. A friend told me that the traverse from Kaleetan to Roosevelt was a mini-Torment-Forbidden Traverse too.

Edited June 27, 2013 by chris

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

Forgo a joint and get up earlier. Climb Das Toof before the other f-ers then relax and celebrate :-)

 

[DPS]

I'm curious about traversing Denny Mountain along the ridge top from Pineapple Pass to the top of Chair 2,

 

I've done it. Right about 11 years ago I went up for a quick solo of Der Tooth and ran into friends Peter and Kim Chapman and Michael and Kris Stanton. Michael wanted to climb more, everyone else was heading home, so we ran the ridge to the top of Denny then bombed down the ski area right to the parking lot. High fun factor, very novel with a few fifth class pitches on good rock. There is a lot of route latitude, the technical pitches can prolly be avoided, but where's the fun in that?

 

http://www.mountainwerks.org/cma/2002/datoof.htm

Edited June 27, 2013 by DPS

[genepires]

been up das toof 4 times, all times it was empty. (relative, one other group on route)

1X summer on a bad forecast but dry day

3X winter but sunny day in a 4 day sunny streak

 

If you want relative isolation, don't go on good weather summer days. the winter time is very nice for das toof.

Or do some other line on the peak.

[yikes]

What we really need to do is develop alternative climbs nearby. ... A friend told me that the traverse from Kaleetan to Roosevelt was a mini-Torment-Forbidden Traverse too.

 

I haven't done the TFT yet but I have done the RKT. I don't think it will ever make it into any "50 best" lists. There is only a little 5th class for a move or two and the rock quality is subpar. I didn't have a rope but I don't remember seeing much in the way of opportunities for gear. The Roosevelt section was forgettable and required some sketchy down climbing followed by some sketchy climbing up to gain the N Ridge of Kaleetan. However, walking along the knife edge N Ridge of Kaleetan is a pretty sweet treat. One might be able to get to it by going over Melakwa pass and skirting Chair Lake; though, the consequences of a slip would be a swim in the semi-frozen lake. The Gem lake approach is very scenic but requires that you go up and over Roosevelt.

[DPS]

Or do some other line on the peak.

The West Face is good. 5 pitches, 5.10, only one slightly dirty/loose pitch that is not worse than anything on the North Ridge of Thomson. The 5.10 section is short and can be aided via an in-situ piton ladder.

[bigeo]

The NE Buttress of Chair provides pretty good bang for your buck as a rock climb/scramble.

[dfrost]

The East face of the Tooth is a good time also; make sure you wear a helmet.

[twobananas]

I didn't enjoy hearing the substantial rocks whizzing by our heads from the climbers above us on this climb. Several landed within three feet of me.

 

I'm particularly glad for the loud helicopter noise from the largest of these rocks. The impact on the snow next to us was like a meteor. I don't know if the climbers above us shouted 'rock!', since the rock itself was too loud and grabbed my full attention. The other rocks just sort of fell quietly and landed within a foot of me twice. One hit my shoulder.

 

It was a good reminder of how much we shouldn't trust the climbers above us to be careful or watch our collective butts.

[CascadeClimber]

The East face of the Tooth is a good time also; make sure you wear a helmet.

 

And don't carry a big rack; there isn't much gear on that route.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

The NE Buttress of Chair provides pretty good bang for your buck as a rock climb/scramble.

 

[chris]

I didn't enjoy hearing the substantial rocks whizzing by our heads from the climbers above us on this climb. Several landed within three feet of me...It was a good reminder of how much we shouldn't trust the climbers above us to be careful or watch our collective butts.

 

Its also a good reminder that you probably shouldn't be climbing below another team on routes that are known to have loose rock. One of the reasons The Tooth gets multiple parties is its slanted nature deflects rock fall to the side. That's not the case on the West or East Faces. I think the NE Buttress on Chair and the Improbable Traverse on Guye have this propensity as well.

 

[matt_warfield]

Another major issue is when the rappel route matches the ascent route on moderate alpine routes with plenty of newbies. Go early or go late. or in bad weather. Think about moderate crag routes also with solid rock.

Edited July 21, 2013 by matt_warfield