[TR] Mt. Deception + peak 7638' - east face, ne chute + east face 4/1/2013

[danhelmstadter]

Trip: Mt. Deception + peak 7638' - east face, ne chute + east face

 

Date: 3/31-4/2/2013

 

Trip Report:

I left Sunday afternoon with plans to explore Royal Basin, stocked with several days worth of food an gas, a guitar, and plenty of stoke.

 

I got there as the day was fading, and eyed a potential line on the East face of Mt. Deception. Got started around dawn and was happy to find good consolidated spring conditions low down, the snow got deeper with elevation. I was tempted to ski linked turns off the summit, but sluff management was necessary. The crux came in a gully low on the face. I first tried to ski the way I had climbed, but found it too awkward and icy so I climbed back up a little and went skiers left over a ice bulge, it was steeper but sun kissed unlike the way I had climbed.

 

I skied down to the floor of the basin and was so stoked I decided to climb and ski the NE chute. Conditions were a little crusty in spots but not bad, it is a beautiful line and was very fun to ski.

 

That night was cold and windy and I didn't get much sleep. In the morning I half dozed in my sun warmed sleeping bag for a while enjoying the sounds of the wind through the trees. My plan was to slog out that day. On the way out I saw an alluring east face and decided to go for it. It was awesome, a little shorter and steeper than the east face route I skied on Deception.

 

On my drive in, I came across a stranded couple walking down the road, they had listened to their radio too long roadside camping and killed their battery. I didn't have jumper cables but I obliged to letting them swap out my truck battery for a few minutes.

IMG_0010 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

 

Mt. Deception

east face by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

 

IMG_0031 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

 

IMG_0046 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

 

crux, icy neve in the shade.

IMG_0049 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

 

IMG_0039 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

 

East face of Needles peak 7638' on left

IMG_0081 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

 

needles by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

 

View south to Deception

IMG_0097 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

 

IMG_0104 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

 

7638' from lower down

IMG_0114 by danhelmstadter, on Flickr

 

 

 

 

 

[Pete_H]

Nice Dan. I've been wanting to get back there for a while.

[Lowell_Skoog]

I believe Peak 7638' is called Martin Peak in the Olympic climbing guide.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

I keep meaning to get up in there to ski! Looks like fun! And Lowell is right, Martin peak is the last peak of the Needles, just before Deception.

[Mattski]

Nice trip! I skied Deception last year and the East Face looked possible with more snow, and Martin looked like fun as well!

[Bronco]

Anyone know what Dan's up to these days? Really enjoyed seeing his stoke filled TRs and photos.

[RonLester]

Bump

[Water]

I'd bump this too.. Dan probably would downplay but just within the last week I was going over his summit post climb/ski log and marveling. Tell me this guy was sponsored by someone..please