Mattski

I have the Metolius Power Cams from 6+ years ago. I used them for a few seasons and I did not like them over the BD Camelots so I want to sell them, all of them as a set for $200. That is less than $30 per cam. Can meet in Ballard or Fremont for pick up. Metolius Power Cams *1-7

I have some very lightly used Russian Titanium Ice Screws that will be great for any climber looking for so leaver gear to supplement v-threads or ski mountaineering/glacier travel rack. $40 or OBO for the the lot and they are in Ballard for pick up.

Nice trip! I skied Deception last year and the East Face looked possible with more snow, and Martin looked like fun as well!

Great line, way to nail it! The upper part of your route, was that the Corkscrew route gully?

Awesome discovery and send!

I have been the Blue Mountain Grill below the Twin Sisters in Acme, this is near Bellingham, cool find!

I climbed it from the Sloan Creek TH and had a great trail almost to the glacier.

As a tool for rescue and safety, 280 should be the minimum length out of respect for any future partner your ride with. Debris is commonly 6-10 feet deep so 280 is a good basline to work with. There are many case studies regarding the failure of short and skinny probes breaking or failing to go deep enough. I have a BD 300 and find it easy to use.

I have a snow suit for that age, pm me if you want it.

It is a stellar route. I asked Jim why he took it out and he mentioned the rock quality for the first part of the ridge made him think twice about keeping it the book. The gendarmes are some the most interesting climbing on the route and in that area of the Cascades. Definitely a sandbag grade III.

Jim Mates is a professional boot fitter on 65th, done it for 20+ years and Martin at Sturnvant in Bellevue.

I have topos of the main climbing areas in town, Insubong and Dobungsan 3 to 7 pitch granite domes, accessible by bus and train. Namdaemun is the market with the climbing gear. email me if you want topos in english. Great climbing!

I would disagree, the upper part of the Quien Sabe can be steep and icey this time of year. The 4th class is easy going up and you can rappel easily down with 40-50 meter rope. You can solo, just be prepared for some ice from 7,700' to 8,500'and a few larger crevasses. There usually is an anchor at the top to rappel from.

This is an awesome way to stay motivated, you should have your own blog! I think I have a potential solution for the winter, check out crossfit http://www.crossfit.com/ they can be a good source of wintertime workouts, short and sweet! Keep it up and you will send Rainier in no time!

The bridge and most of the Whitechuck road was washed out as well. You access the Sitkum and Frostbite from that side. The Whitechuck you access from Red Pass and North Fork of the Sauk.

Boston Basin should make this list of routes with at least 3 routes on Forbidden and Sharkfin Tower. Marble Creek Cirque has the Early Morning as well as Dorado Needle and the West Arete of Eldo. There also Chimney Rock, Lemahs, Snoqualmie Pass.... If using the 5.9 yardstick, then a few routes would make it from these areas.

I heard the closure is at mile 9 out of Marblemount due to debris on the road.

I am down with Index Tomorrow or Thurs. I lead 10+ at Index and have rack and rope as well. The drive to Darrington I can pull off Sat or Sunday. I have a daughter so mid week I am fine with Exit 32 or Index. Let me know if that works for you.

Egos versus public service, looks like a job for Judge Judy or fight night. Just go climbing and stop surfing the web, it might help mellow out what happened to be an improvement to an increasingly crowded area.

I recommend emailing Hector Ponce De Leon, I worked with him Orizaba and he speaks fluent english and is a nice guy. Also getting to the mountain is the true crux as it takes 3-4 hours in a 4X4 vehicle which will cost at least 70-100 dollars US. With Secor's book, the conditions are not reliable due to agressive changes with global warming. Good luck!

Yep, lots of options but you need to send a post card to the village if you want a pick up from the ferry. It is a loooonnng skin if the cat doesn't come get you. Quick access to a lot of skiing and the village has a sauna, you need to attend Vespers to use it

Once the bolt is in the rock is defaced, but chopping it is just one person's opinion and a hassle for those who come after. I say f*** the art critics and stop beating defenseless bolts!

It is a simple answer, it is the environment you are climbing in not the type of climbing. There are sport, trad, mixed and ice routes that are alpine climbe because the area is typically above treeline, possibly glaciated and often has an approach of some length giving it a level of committment not found cragging(issues with rescue, not length of the route). If you get into the stly of climbing then you are not talking about theenvironment but the style. Red Rocks in one example where long routes have more in common with alpine routes by the difficult approaches and remote nature of the upper canyons but no one would call the Bugaboos cragging because it has all the environmental hazards of the high alpine. The summit is not what defines alpine climbing but it is what helps define the success of an alpine climb.

Thanks for all the input. For all the effort it takes to talk about chopping out there, I hope you guysare getting some climbing in. This sport is not important enough to waste time chest beating. Cheers

I heard a rumor, does anybody have confirmation that IB has been chopped? Thx