John Frieh Posted November 19, 2012 Posted November 19, 2012 Trip: Canada - Polar Circus Date: 11/17/2012 Trip Report Summary: 11/15-16: PDX -> Icefield Parkway 11/16: Laps on lower Weeping Wall 11/17: Polar Circus 11/18: Icefield Parkway -> PDX Good times kicking ice season off with Mr Schmitz up north. Until next time Some things never change... Shaking the rust off Intro Polar pitches Breaking the rope out Headed for the Pencil Pencil barely touching Turning the Pencil Upper Tier Ribbon Pitch Homestretch Gear Notes: Petzl Lynx love Approach Notes: zoom zoom Quote
RafalA Posted November 19, 2012 Posted November 19, 2012 Nice dude! Looks like the Pencil is almost in? Quote
John Frieh Posted November 19, 2012 Author Posted November 19, 2012 Pencil is close but needs at least another week. Quote
RafalA Posted November 19, 2012 Posted November 19, 2012 Sweet! Missed it last year, will have to check it out. Quote
powderhound Posted November 19, 2012 Posted November 19, 2012 Get it while the snow is minimal. Such a different experience then my previous ascent. Highly recommend the earlier season ascent when turning the pencil doesn't have the avy hazard it does the rest of the season. Thanks John, for a great partner to make it possible. Quote
genepires Posted November 20, 2012 Posted November 20, 2012 seems like the ice pitches below the pencil are just snow climbing later on in the season. Quote
Dane Posted November 20, 2012 Posted November 20, 2012 Nice early season guys! seems like the ice pitches below the pencil are just snow climbing later on in the season. Might seem that way but bad assumption. Always a lot of easy ice getting to the Pencil. Most of the gully does not get filled in and blanked out even late in the season. The ice just gets bigger. For most there is only 4 or 5 pitches of belayed climbing on the entire route. More here on the details of a moderate and truely classic water fall climb. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/12/polar-circus-route-description-photo.html Quote
genepires Posted November 21, 2012 Posted November 21, 2012 Was just commenting on the fact that according to his photos, it seemed like the there were a couple more pitches ice right around the pencil area than in the usual later seasons that I have been there. Quote
spionin Posted November 22, 2012 Posted November 22, 2012 looks great! the ribbon pitch looks cruxy! Quote
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