tvashtarkatena Posted September 13, 2012 Posted September 13, 2012 Or a guidebook author. I know several. Quote
matt_warfield Posted September 13, 2012 Posted September 13, 2012 I agree if their name is something like Croft or McNamara or Burdo or Nelson or the like. Otherwise I would go with the extensive certification process guides go through to accomplish just about any situation on rock, snow, or ice without just writing about it. Quote
matt_warfield Posted September 14, 2012 Posted September 14, 2012 Well, like a big brown trout with a grasshopper floating by I couldn't resist. It is kind of like the assumption that you can believe everything you read on the internet. Quote
matt_warfield Posted September 16, 2012 Posted September 16, 2012 (edited) That's because you live in Utah now. If you had stayed in Seattle you would still understand black, sarcastic humor. Edited September 16, 2012 by matt_warfield Quote
genepires Posted September 16, 2012 Posted September 16, 2012 The best thing is to talk to an AMGA certified guide because they know their shit better than 99.59% of the people on this site. I am the .41%. Quote
matt_warfield Posted September 16, 2012 Posted September 16, 2012 I'll bet you are well above that. Quote
Buckaroo Posted September 16, 2012 Posted September 16, 2012 The best thing is to talk to an AMGA certified guide because they know their shit better than 99.59% of the people on this site. They are in the wilderness with no cell phone reception. They don't have a phone number for any AMGA guide The guides don't have time to answer questions over the phone, and/or they are also in the wilderness with no cell phone reception. I would guess in sheer numbers that there are just as many knowledgeable non-guide climbers as there are AMGA guides. Quote
genepires Posted September 16, 2012 Posted September 16, 2012 I'll bet you are well above that. OK you got me. I am the .65% Quote
kurthicks Posted September 16, 2012 Posted September 16, 2012 First off, don't blindly rappel over the roof! Talk to me (or other certified guides) all you want, but I'll probably tell you to call Ammon and see what they do in the Valley. Layton's idea of rapping 400', aiding up to the knot (or just above) and building an anchor sounds like a good one. I'd keep the lowest end of the rope with me, so that I can pull my partner over to my stance via a fireman's belay (and not leave me stranded when he can't get back over to me). Oh, and some of us have cell phones and aren't out in the wilderness all the time! Quote
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