[TR] Mount Temple - fail! - East Ridge IV 5.7 8/15/2012

[mzamp]

Trip: Mount Temple - fail! - East Ridge IV 5.7

 

Date: 8/15/2012

 

Trip Report:

Got up at 4:30 and was on the trail by 5:45 which was supposed to be a clear forecast. Lot's of moisture in the air from the night time rain with a low layer of clouds.

We headed up the avalanche slope disregarding the 4 person minimum rule.

 

 

The slope was steep and loose.

 

 

Looking back down the slope, it looked like it would be a beautiful day.

 

 

The clouds then started to move in, but we were staying above them.

 

 

At the top of the avalanche slope we worked our way left of the butress. It got steeper from here, but at least we were off the avalanche scree.

 

 

It is mostly class 4 scrambling with maybe a few easy 5th class moves. The clouds helped eliminate the exposure factor.

 

 

At times route finding was difficult. Lots of loose ledges and you cannot tell for sure where the route heads upward. It would be easy to climb yourself into some harder 5th class moves.

 

There are lots of cairns you just need to keep an eye out for them. Holds are positive, just double check that they are solid.

 

 

Finally you make your way to the first pitch which is just a little step with some exposure to your sides. This is my partner looking at the little step.

 

 

After the little step a little more scrambling brings you to the big step. The clouds were very thick and my partner was nervous about finding the correct exit in the black towers.

 

 

So we decided to wait and see if the clouds would lift. After about an hour we made a team decision to retreat.

 

 

Of course halfway down the clouds finally cleared. :-( Here is a shot of the 4th class stuff we climbed up in the fog. Much scarier downclimbing. Luckily we found a few rap stations which we gladdly utilized.

 

 

Had some great views of Moraine Lake.

The water looks fake.

 

 

Here is a shot from further North up the highway. Temple is on the left.

 

 

And a tourist shot at Lake Louise.

 

It was dissapointing not to summit, but you just have to remind yourself that the mountain will be there next year.

 

Gear Notes:

This is a mixed route so you have to carry your ice gear (pons & axe, and a couple screws). We did not carry any pickets. Unfortunately we didn't climb high enough to use the gear we carried.

 

Approach Notes:

Bring along the route notes. I think there are several options, but we were always questioning if we were on route or just following the cairns of some other lost soul.

[genepires]

any day spent in the ca rockies is a "winning" day.

 

sure would like to get on that route someday.

[AlpineK]

Nice pictures, and you did climb some of the route.

 

On my one attempt I woke up early with a fever. My partner drove to Lake Louise went for a hike while I spent the day passed out in the back of the pickup. The Lake Louise parking lot was crowded. Folks walked by all day giving me some funny looks.

[ezra]

Awesome pics and a great TR and attempt!!!!

Success in my book!

[trainwreck]

I climbed the east ridge this year and will never do it again. it is primarily just a dangerous scramble with three short pitches of shitty climbing on the big step. compared to the east ridge of cavell it is a tottering shit heap; though the views on the summit ridge are damned impressive.

[mzamp]

I have a feeling we will be back next year. My climbing partner has wants to bag this one. Hopefully Edith Cavell will be accessible by next year as that is on our list as well. And then Skyladder on Andromeda would be the trifecta for our trip.

 

The one thing I am sure about...I need to train harder. Those routes are big and long.

[Rad]

You turned back in the face of questionable conditions. That doesn't sound like failure to me. That sounds like sound judgment. And yes, that thing looks like an ungodly pile of tottering choss. Is that the route where House had his accident?

[Buckaroo]

House was on the North face

[mattp]

You turned back in the face of questionable conditions. That doesn't sound like failure to me. That sounds like sound judgment. And yes, that thing looks like an ungodly pile of tottering choss. Is that the route where House had his accident?

 

Yes, it is an ungodly pile of tottering choss.

 

I climbed it about six or eight years ago and damn near every step of the way for - what was it? 4,000 or 5,000 feet? - was loose and featured loose debris over shattered substrate. But I thought it a great climb. I realize it is not a "hard" climb, but if you are up for the crap rock, it is full value.