Using only 1 double rope= Suicide?

[danmcph]

I have been thinking about buying a single double rope to use by itself on easy routes where the chances of a fall are very low but possible non the less in order to save weight. Is this a really bad idea/suicidal?

 

The routes would be alpine rock in the Tetons. Single day. 5 to 8 pitches like Upper Exum, CMC on Moran etc.

[genepires]

the issue with single of the double ropes is the resistence to cutting over edges. Sounds like you are doing real rock routes with this setup. The usual terrain for single of the half ropes is routes with mostly fourth and bit of low low 5th class ground. If you are a real bad ass climber, then , maybe the 5.8 is like 4th class to mortals and the thin ropes would be ok.

 

the other common way os to have one person tie into the middle and the other to tie into both ends and use 2 strands but the pitches are short.

 

why not just get as real thin single? They got like 9.1mm singles out there.

Edited August 5, 2012 by genepires

[Buckaroo]

What Gene sez

 

The common reference is half or twin, what do you mean by double?

 

If you are going to double the rope then get a twin and climb 30M pitches. Many older routes have 30M or less pitches.

 

Also look at a rope with edge protection like Beal. The UIAA discontinued the edge test in 2004(?) but Beal still makes them. Not all their ropes are edge resistant so look at the specs.

 

The lightest single rope now is the Mammut Serenity at 8.9mm., holds 5-6 falls.

 

Other factors are climbing skill and climber weight. If you climb 5.11 then 5.7 is probably safe with any rope. Also the weight of the climbers. Lighter climbers can get away with lighter ropes.

 

The UIAA test is for 175 lbs but if you weigh 135 lbs you are better off and conversely if you weigh 210 lbs you are worse off.

[danmcph]

I meant half ropes not twin.

[danmcph]

Any idea on the best place to get a deal on a serenity?

[Buckaroo]

1/2 rope is even better for running single than a twin.

 

Pro Mountain Sports sells the Serenity, they will sometimes give you a deal, it depends.

 

Also I believe Feathered Friends has it too.

 

Serenity is not an edge rope though.

 

Beal makes several 1/2 ropes with edge resistance. Personally I think edge resistance is more important than number of falls because usually the only times ropes break is over edges.

 

the Joker is 53 gm/m

the Serenity is 52 gm/m

 

so the Joker is 2 oz heavier for a 60M, assuming the manuf weights are accurate.

 

another thing to look at is what kind of dry treatment, either treated before weaving or after. Before is better, and it makes the rope slicker when running through gear.

[kurthicks]

I used my mammut serenity for 5 years, whereas a Beal only lasts me one season. Mammut's rock for durability.

[Buckaroo]

good input. I don't climb enough to really retire ropes from wear. It's usually time that does it.

[G-spotter]

I don't climb enough to really retire ropes from wear.

 

I bet even you could wear out a New England Rope. those things fray if you just look at therm

[montypiton]

"If you climb 5.11 then 5.7 is probably safe with any rope."

 

My experience suggests this could be a dangerous way of thinking -- two buddies of mine on Serpentine arete (circa 1983) - high on the route where the climbing has eased off, buddy #1, competent on 5.11+, suggests they unrope to finish the route. buddy #2, less fit, competent to maybe 5.9, declines, so they stay roped. on the very next pitch, buddy #1 gets a bit hurried or careless, (maybe a mini-stroke? who knows?) ends up taking a forty-footer. "safe with any rope"?

 

For going ultralight, I like doubling a single twin and limiting my pitches to 30 meters. On moderate routes, the pitch length is not really an issue, since we're probably simulclimbing large portions of the route anyway. The more critical issue, with the single twin, is that it limits your rappel possibilities to 30 meters. As other posters have already noted, on most classic (older) alpine routes, this is not a deal-breaker. Using a full-size single rope presents the same limitation, unless you carry a tag-line, adding even more weight.

 

so - if you're serious about minimizing weight, buy the lightest, skinniest twin you can find, and climb on it doubled.

[layton]

I do it all the time on easy routes where weight savings really speeds things up. Not worth it if the approach or climb isn't epic, however. If pitches are short, doubling it up is safe.