Jason_Martin Posted October 14, 2002 Posted October 14, 2002 "Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide" by Jason D. Martin and Alex Krawarik, will be available from Mountaineers Books in September of 2003. Our final deadline for all information concerning ice climbing in Washington State is in late December... Which means that we have to have any information that will be included in the guide by late November or early December so that we have time to format it and check out the beta. If you have some secret spot that you think should be included in the book, please contact us. We are also in dire need of photos. We will accept any photos that you may have of climbing on Washington Ice though that doesn't mean that we will use them for sure. Unfortunately we can't pay for photos. We are interested in both action shots of ice climbers and overview shots of areas or routes. In particular we are currently looking for any ice climbing photos of the following areas: 1) Climbs on Table Mountain 2) Cascade Pass climbs 3) Index climbs 4) Stevens Pass routes 5) Routes in the Quincy Wildlife Area 6) The little climb in Spokane 7) Frenchman Coulee 8) Chinook Pass 9) Any climbs in Mt. Rainier National Park 10) Climbs in Bluewood In addition to this request for any photos, we have specific overview photos that we are looking for. They include: 1) Dragontail Peak in the Winter 2) The Mt. Index group in the Winter 3) The NW Face of Colefax Peak in the Winter 4) The steep buttress to the right of the North Face of Chair Peak. 5) N. Face of Abiel Peak in the Winter Please let us know what you have. I can be reached at: j_dougie@yahoo.com Alex can be reached at: wastateice@yahoo.com Alex, please chime in if I missed anything in this request... Jason [ 10-14-2002, 09:38 AM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ] Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 14, 2002 Posted October 14, 2002 I'll only donate photos and info if I get a free copy of the book. Quote
Jason_Martin Posted October 14, 2002 Author Posted October 14, 2002 Captain, Sorry, our contract is very tight and we don't even have that to give away. Though a photo credit in a guidebook could lead to paying gigs with the magazines... At least you'd have a published climbing photo on your resume. Jason Quote
Lambone Posted October 14, 2002 Posted October 14, 2002 Next september [ 10-14-2002, 07:32 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote
genepires Posted October 14, 2002 Posted October 14, 2002 Have you ever published a book before lambone? Give them a break if it takes this long. Why don't you try to gather all of the info and put a book together. It is way too much work for sloths like me to do. [ 10-14-2002, 05:26 PM: Message edited by: genepires ] Quote
DavidW Posted October 14, 2002 Posted October 14, 2002 When I did books with the Mounties they gave us a sheet to fill out for people we thought deserved free copies......I found them to be relatively negotiable on contract technicalities..... you just had to know what you wanted and stick to it. And be reasonable of course..... which might, in fact preclude and books for Cavey! It's ok tho Ray....... send me a photo of your license plate and I'll buy a copy for ya! Quote
Jason_Martin Posted October 14, 2002 Author Posted October 14, 2002 Lambone, Publishing is a very slow business, so is collecting data for a guide that has never been published before. To give you an idea of what this has taken, here is a timeline. 1999 -- Winter 1999 Start Project. Many days are spent looking for ice. We originally thought this might be a very short book. 2000 -- Research is slow and some people are unwilling to provide information. Though it appears that the book will not by any means be short. 2001 -- October, sent out drafts of the book to publishers in hopes of a bite. 2001/2002 -- December and January, I'm in the field almost every day trying to verify information that people have provided -- one of the nice things about being a grad student was that I got a little time off here and there. Often I'm doing approaches to routes that are not in, simply to get the beta correct. 2002 -- March, Mountaineers Books shows some interest. 2002 -- September, finally a contract is signed. Unfortunately Mountaineers only comes out with books in the Fall. Our guide is over 150 pages long, single spaced without pictures... 2002 -- December 31st, our final deadline for all information and field checking. 2003 -- January through May, Mountaineers does their part of the work, but we are required to look at proofs and galleys throughout the publication process. We are not allowed to add any new beta, just correct small mistakes. 2003 -- June through August, Final copy-editing and publication. I truly wanted to have the guide out for this winter, that's why we submitted the book to publishing agencies a year ago... But as I've stated above, this is a very slow process. Jason Quote
Jason_Martin Posted October 14, 2002 Author Posted October 14, 2002 We've had so many people submit to this book, it's just not possible to give every person a free copy. On my "Special Thanks" list in the back of the book over seventy people are listed. And that's people who have provided us with solid beta... We are really just starting the picture, map, and topo phase of the project. Mounties are reasonable, but not seventy plus copies reasonable. Jason Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 14, 2002 Posted October 14, 2002 Right on good luck. Just dont take any info from Smoot [ 10-14-2002, 11:00 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote
DavidW Posted October 14, 2002 Posted October 14, 2002 Just teasing Jason..... I've been thru it many times...... but after a few with the mounties I just started publishing my own. Quote
JayB Posted October 14, 2002 Posted October 14, 2002 Jason/Alex: Thanks for the effort. Looking forward to the guide. Quote
Lambone Posted October 14, 2002 Posted October 14, 2002 Interesting Jason, sory about being rude...it just seemed as if we were able to print off a rough draft from CC.com over a year ago...just wondering why the book was taking so long...nice effort! [ 10-14-2002, 11:27 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote
JayB Posted October 14, 2002 Posted October 14, 2002 One of the beta versions of the guide with a long list o' climbs can be found here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/iceinwashington.htm Quote
Alex Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 JayB, that is indeed an early (and God, how early!) draft that we posted here on cc.com to generate some buzz. But to be honest, that draft doesnt do our current work justice. Jason was not kidding when he said it would take a long time (and be a little pointless) to list an index of routes here: we have over 230 routes! The guide is going to be great. Everytime I look at the awesome contributions in pictures, beta, and most importantly climbing accomplishments that we have from many local-yet-low-key ice climbers, I get pumped to gear up and go ice climbing! We hope you will too, Alex Quote
Lambone Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 right-on, hopefully this season will allow for some new additions to that list! 230 is alot, it's kinda odd that most (myself included) only know of a handfull of ice climbs in Washington, and most of those are inconsistant at best. You're guide will be awsome, hopefully it'll generate interest for the masses to explore other areas in washington, rather than beat on the same tired ice that we read about on cc.com all winter... cheers fellas [ 10-14-2002, 07:33 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ] Quote
Jason_Martin Posted October 15, 2002 Author Posted October 15, 2002 Be aware that with our deadline coming so quickly, you should explore early. Anything that is contributed after mid-December will have to wait until the second edition. Jason Quote
j_b Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 is there a list of climbs included for all to see? Quote
Jason_Martin Posted October 15, 2002 Author Posted October 15, 2002 j_b, The index of climbs is quite long... Too long for me to type up here. If you have a question about a specific climb or area, I will answer it to the best of my ability. Jason Quote
Jason_Martin Posted October 15, 2002 Author Posted October 15, 2002 Perhaps someone can help us out with another question. I'm looking for information for the guide on the group of climbers from the eighties that called themselves "White Punks on Dope" after the punk rock tune by the Tubes. I know Doug Klewin was part of this group, but I don't know who else. Any info would be helpful. Jason Quote
Peter_Puget Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 Sorry for the thread drift but the last post reminded me of another group from the 70s or very early 80's whos ename would be sure to bring a smile to Caveman's and Mike Adams face: "The Dead Boys Mountaineering and Ammo CLub" There shirts had an ice axe crossed with a M16. Quote
Dru Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 Kevin McLane gave everyone thanked in his books a free copy.... Quote
Peter_Puget Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 You guys are a tough crowd. Think about this. McKlane had a basic framework to follow. Imagine how many people he would have had to contact had there been no previous documentation of Squamish climbing Jason and any cowriters have had to create something out of nothing. For them getting info was quite possibly much more problematic. Besides McKlane published his own guide and has total control. Jason is subject to the constraints imposed by the Mountaineers. I say three cheers for Jason et al! Hooray Hooray Hooray BTW: Buy the select guide to Squamish. A route by route comparison clearly shows its superiority. Quote
Dru Posted October 15, 2002 Posted October 15, 2002 Squamish Select is a shit pile of a guide full of errors and misinformation and topos directly stolen from Jim Campbell without attribution. The only advantage is it includes bouldering as well but is sooooo out of date now and contains V7s rated as v10 by the chestbeater guidebook author. Quote
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