[TR] Sandy - The secret wall of "the good ol' boys" club 6/26/2012

[LostCamKenny]

Trip: Sandy - The secret wall of "the good ol' boys" club

 

Date: 6/26/2012

 

Trip Report:

Desperate for some climbing, my brother and I headed off to our secret climbing location. This spot has never failed to give either of us the fear and we have always found our limits here. We were sure that we'd find something that we could clamber up and crow about after the descent, and since it is good style to report on such magnificent locations for the masses i thought it good to tell about it here.

 

We started out the climb with barely any gear. my bro, always harping on me about taking even a little too much, decided that the best idea here was to go as light as we could possibly get away with, and then climb quickly. the first few meters of climbing were fairly mellow and I followed him as he led meandering his way, to and fro, up the route. It was delicate balance climbing and thin for most of this first part of the climb. We got a little further and then it began to get a bit more difficult, and we encountered some smooth sections that we just barely stayed smeared on. My bro took the lead back and began to weave his way up until he was able to find a suitable stance. He kept telling me that "eventually we're gonna get to some harder climbing," and it was to be the very next part. We took a quick break to compose ourselves for the crux.

 

I was gripped and tired. My toes were sore from pushing hard and my fingers could barely pull. It seemed impossible that we could get thru this climb and still have something left for the descent, but we had to finish what we started. The disappointment of bailing would be too much for us to bear. My bro, pumped but ready for more, urged me to go on and I pulled myself together for the final push as he set off in the lead once again.

 

First we had to negotiate a roof that wasn't really all that long but certainly maintained its horizontal character for several meters. I slipped several times but managed to keep myself on just long enough to exit the roof onto the steeper terrain above. after pulling the roof and heading up we had to traverse slightly to avoid a blank section, but i slipped here too and caught myself as i took in the exposure and the view to the ground below. I was nearing my limit as we topped out this section and prepared to finish up on the final overhang. I wasn't sure that I could make it the rest of the way but i was damned if i didn't give it my best effort... salvation lay at the end of the climb and we were going to face the climb like soldiers going into battle. But as we got to the base of the overhang it was clear that we could not carry on and would have to bail after all - we were met with some most unfortunate news that was going to send us home early: Another damn closure!!! You mean to tell me that there are falcons here, too?!?

 

Fortunately though, they were only trying to remove the bubbles in the floor at the circuit!

 

Gear Notes:

tape for blister on heel; chalkbag; clif bar

 

Approach Notes:

drive in car. park. walk thru door. pay the dude. climb.

[JosephH]

Who knew you have as much potential as a writer as you do as a free climber.

[JasonG]

At least it won't count towards the TR giveaway, no pictures!

[billcoe]

LOL! Good stuff Kenny!

 

...and ya got a brother too?!!!! Wow!

[Plaidman]

WOW! I liked the gottcha at the end. I was really surprised at the twist in the ending. Almost as twisted as you. Good stuff man!

[geoff]

Freakin gym climbers.

[Bumkin]

Awesome!

[Nipsy]

And then you sprained your ankle?????

[Sanchez]

The real question: did you have to eat your brother in order to survive? Or did you get a protein shake at the snack bar? : )

[ivan]

Who knew you have as much potential as a writer as you do as a free climber.

this could definitely be taken two ways