JasonG Posted June 17, 2012 Posted June 17, 2012 Trip: Mt. Garfield - Infinite Outrage (Bliss) to p. 20 Date: 6/15/2012 Trip Report: Curt and I finally got to go and check out what all the fuss is about. Our verdict.... much ado about nothing. Aside from people getting their panties in a wad over exact wilderness boundaries (the Middle Fork Valley is no Little Beaver), charges of over bolting are quite exaggerated. In fact, we often were scratching our heads about exactly where the line went as the bolts weren't always obvious (as I would have expected from the wailing and gnashing of teeth). The pitches 5.7 and under are minimally bolted, and those 5.8 and up, bolted comfortably but not excessively. I'd say Bravo to the Leland and Co. for putting up a fine route on an impressive feature, it's just unfortunate that I was too out of practice to finish it! Even with a start at first light from the road, we ran out of time and energy at the top of pitch 20. Part of our slowness was due to the wetness on most every pitch (is this normal in the spring, or a result of the wet June?), but part was my lack of time on the rock in recent years. Just be advised the you pretty much need to simul all the easier pitches if you want to pull this off comfortably in a day. Also, the topo is a bit confusing on the 5.0 unbolted section above p. 15. It has probably been said before on one of the many IB threads, but from the top of p.15 you diagonal up and right about 200' to a bush with many rap slings, then go straight up to the next station (~80'), and up and veer left from there ~140 feet to the next station and the start of p.18. I found the .10c pitch (19) to be quite challenging, though Curt led it in fine style. Even though we didn't get to the top, the views didn't disappoint, and were much better than I was expecting. It is a worthy climb in every sense, and to the top of p. 14 would make a great mellower day. The rock is very, very good! Side note - On the way down we saw a large, dead goat on a ledge to the skier's right of the climbing route. Interesting, I haven't seen that before. The vultures were starting to move in as we were leaving. Also, the black flies were pretty bad on the entire route, perhaps due to the wetness? Gear Notes: 20+ draws and some small nuts and cams for the runout sections. Two 60m ropes. Helmet. Approach Notes: Cairn marks the trail along Middle Fork Road, approx. 1 mile past Taylor River bridge. Quote
shaoleung Posted June 17, 2012 Posted June 17, 2012 Good effort! It stays wet through mid summer. Quote
shaoleung Posted June 17, 2012 Posted June 17, 2012 ... and it looks like your shoe lace is coming undone! Back that up with a double knot yo! Quote
curtveld Posted June 17, 2012 Posted June 17, 2012 A fine day out, Jason. Thanks for making this one happen. Loved the easy staircase pitch in photo #3! Quote
curtveld Posted June 17, 2012 Posted June 17, 2012 Yer backclipped bro! ....and this is exactly the kind of near miss you see when trad climbers attempt to sport climb without proper instruction! Quote
JasonG Posted June 17, 2012 Author Posted June 17, 2012 To Curt's credit, he did fix the draw after looking which way the route went. Thanks for the tip about the wetness, my next attempt will have to be in July! Quote
therunningdog Posted June 19, 2012 Posted June 19, 2012 I stopped reading after wadded wet panties and wailing...too much to handle. Anyways, how was the climb? Quote
Buckaroo Posted June 19, 2012 Posted June 19, 2012 I think the beta is you have to start from the base of the climbing at dawn, that and simul rap on the descent. Either that or tie some neon surveyor tape to the belays as you go up and take super bright headlamps and plan on rapping in the dark. You're right near the solstice which is good for length of day, it's just maybe a wetter year than normal. I think this climb would dry out if there were a few full sun days in a row, it is south facing. Quote
Alex Posted June 25, 2012 Posted June 25, 2012 Its a good route but you're about 10 years late for any debate. When I climbed it we had plenty of time, but you have to be reasonably fast. We simulclimbed the first 8 pitches or so as a single block. The route is great training for speed. I wouldn't climb under another party on this route! Quote
Buckaroo Posted June 25, 2012 Posted June 25, 2012 I wouldn't climb under another party on this route! Loose rock? Quote
Alex Posted June 25, 2012 Posted June 25, 2012 Yes, the first low angled section is polished granite and fantastically clean, but most exposed to rockfall. The next section all the way through the mandatory unprotected "4th" - which is a lot of pitches - can be a bit friable at times. It isn't as exposed as generally you are on the climbers left of the face, but my experience is that really there is no where to hide from rockfall from above if you are on the lower half of the route. You might not see folks who are really high up from the first slabby pitches, but I would be on high alert if it's not O-dark-30 when you are starting up the route and someone may be ahead of you! The most likely scenario is that folks rapp'ing back down the route are going to kick some stuff off. Second and third pic of this TR show that danger zone... Quote
JasonG Posted June 26, 2012 Author Posted June 26, 2012 Yes, yes, I would go someplace else if folks were above. While we didn't kick anything big off, small bit of rockfall seem unavoidable on rappel. Good point about the debate being pretty much over on this one, I didn't realize how much time has passed since it was put up. I'm getting old! @RD-sorry to tease you (though I know you like it), but the climbing was good, clean fun. Quote
Raindawg Posted July 4, 2012 Posted July 4, 2012 Good point about the debate being pretty much over on this one, I didn't realize how much time has passed since it was put up. I'm getting old! The debate ain't over yet at all. I'm glad y'all had fun but the fact is: it's an illegal, power-drilled, rap-bolted sport-climb in a wilderness area, whether the route "creators" knew it or not. Please do not further endorse it by climbing it again. Thank you. Quote
genepires Posted July 4, 2012 Posted July 4, 2012 dawg needs to sleep instead of rabid foaming at midnight. should have a hand drilled bolt addition party in IB this weekend. Quote
curtveld Posted July 4, 2012 Posted July 4, 2012 The debate ain't over yet at all. I'm glad y'all had fun but the fact is: it's an illegal, power-drilled, rap-bolted sport-climb in a wilderness area, whether the route "creators" knew it or not. Please do not further endorse it by climbing it again. Thank you. I dont know Gene, this may be the dawg's most CIVIL post to date! Posted on-topic? Yup, bolting controversy already mentioned Clear message? Pretty much A few nods of acknowledgement to those with differing views? Sorta If he keeps this pattern up, readers around here might actually find his posts useful. Quote
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