great approach shoes Guide Tennie and Cruz

[layton]

I usually go through a pair of approach shoes about ever six months. That's been the main down-side - that and weight and bulk.

 

I can happily say that my 5.10 guide tennies have survived two years and are on their 3rd re-sole (ability to re-sole is a major plus). They are also the stickiest shoe I've ever used. They are also the lightest long approach shoe - especially with the new canvas redesign (lets see if that holds up). 5.10's other line of shoes (Camp 4 and Insight) are equally nice, but they don't fit my foot. The Guide is a great snow boot.

 

I have also been trying to find an ultra light approach shoe that has minimal bulk for climbing with on the harness and slipping on quickly on belays. My feet hurt like crazy on climbs, so I always keep my eyes open for light, chincy slippers (like karate slippers). I've experimented with Vibram 5-finger shoes which are amazingly light and low bulk, but they slip like crazy on approach scrambling. I have climbed up to 5.7 in them on approaches in the black canyon, but I was sketched big time. I was even considering re-soling on of the newer "barefoot" shoes with 5.10 sticky rubber...until I found the Evolv Cruz!

 

The Cruz isn't as light as a pair of 5-fingers, but it is really really light. And goddamn is it comfy. The heel is floppy and the shoes are designed to be worn in slipper mode. Finally finally finally a company has made a hyper-light low volume approach shoe. There hasn't been one since the "Dragonfly".

[billcoe]

...until I found the Evolv Cruz!

 

Thanks for the report Mike. Do you mean Evolv Cruzer? http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/approach-shoes/cruzer-slate/

 

I love the Evolv shoes. I have a pair of Guide Tennies and wonder why I waited so long to get them. BTW, if anyone is thinking of taking out a second mortgage and getting the LaSportiva Gandas: real good shoe but not even close to worth the $ IMO. They're very comfortable and run true to size, but they weigh more than the Guide Tennies and don't kick steps any better for the extra weight.

 

Again,. that's IMO.

 

 

Thanks for the heads up on the Evolv shoes Mike. How is the sizing? Evolv is all over the map on that. The tennis shoes they use to sell were sized wayyy wrong. For instance, a 10 would fit me, but I wear an 8-1/2 street shoe. In fact, I still have an old pair of Evolv tennis shoes (close to unworn, but ugly green) that might fit a 7 -7 1/2 foot that they called a size 8-1/2 or 9.

[dberdinka]

I've never bought Guide Tennies because I heard they always fell apart way to quicvk, so good to know....

 

I have a pair of Gandas (bought for 1/2 price) and like then A LOT. They climb very, very well in fact I think they climb as well as my stretched out Mythos. While they look like a hiking shoe the front half actually feels like a rock shoe (your muscles will notice). Perfect approach/climbing shoe. I've got a couple grade V walls on them and they've held well for that too. Heavy though, definitely heavy.

[layton]

I'm sure the Gandas are amazing if you plan on using your shoes for double duty and I'd love a pair. But they are too pricey for me at the moment.

 

The Cruzer fits snug. I measure a 9.5, but I always but size 10 to save my toenails. The cruzer fits, but not much lace left over! I think they are meant be be snug since they are incredibly soft. They will probably stretch. I can't say anything about the durability, but I'm assuming they won't last as long as a heavier shoe...probably as long as a normal approach shoes. The rubber is not as sticky as 5.10 sticky dot.

[burchey]

 

I can happily say that my 5.10 guide tennies have survived two years and are on their 3rd re-sole (ability to re-sole is a major plus). They are also the stickiest shoe I've ever used. They are also the lightest long approach shoe - especially with the new canvas redesign (lets see if that holds up). 5.10's other line of shoes (Camp 4 and Insight) are equally nice, but they don't fit my foot. The Guide is a great snow boot.

 

 

Trying to figure out if you're kidding or not. Snow boot? Long lasting? My guide tennies had great rubber, but I wore through the upper quickly (abrasive scrambling in the sierras) and they would soak out in a flash. What kind of approachin' do you do in them?

[eldiente]

IMO... I always use cheap Nike running shoes. Sure they wear out fast but they are lighter than most climbing specific shoes, and they are comfy on the hike in. If the hike in isn't too rough I'll go with a pair of flip-flops.

 

nate

[layton]

I wasn't joking and I don't think I mentioned anything about snow, although I've used them in the Tetons, Winds, Rockies, and Wasatch with many glissades and many aid walls. I emptied two tubes of seam grip all over them, maybe that helped. Water kills approach shoes. My wife's pair is holding up great with no resoles and them same purchase date and she wears them around town (much to my complaints).

 

Wayne wallace uses the 5.10 insights extensively in snow. I'm always amazed at how new his look (he also seam gripped the shit out of them).

 

Just wanted to report that since I tend to totally destroy shoes, I'm very pleased with the guide tennie.

[Tyson.g]

5.10's other line of shoes (Camp 4 and Insight) are equally nice, but they don't fit my foot. The Guide is a great snow boot.

[layton]

oh that! sorry, I started to talk about a shoes that I couldn't remember the name of I use in snow...it's like a high top camp four. I went to search what it was called (couldn't find it) and lost my place.

[G-spotter]

The old mountain master was a great shoe. The only approach shoe I could do a full day rock climb in - approach, climb, glissade, hike out. The Guide Tennie is lighter, but flimsier - I don't like it on snow at all, although it's great for stuff like Squamish. Probably because I don't use them as much because of this, my current pair has lasted three years.

 

I've also had La Sportiva Boulder X's for the last couple years. Sadly, they are durable but they also suck. Pieces fall off the sole, laces break, rubber isn't very sticky, toe hurts when walking downhill. Finally wore through the rands last week.

 

Got a pair of Camp 4's on order. These look like a really good one.

[JoshK]

I've also had La Sportiva Boulder X's for the last couple years. Sadly, they are durable but they also suck. Pieces fall off the sole, laces break, rubber isn't very sticky, toe hurts when walking downhill. Finally wore through the rands last week.

 

I have a pair of those Boulder X's as well. I find they work pretty well for rock scrambles, approaches and the like, but I've also had issues with chunks of the sole falling off. I only paid half price for them, and would probablh buy another pair at that reduced price.

[JoshK]

I've also had La Sportiva Boulder X's for the last couple years. Sadly, they are durable but they also suck. Pieces fall off the sole, laces break, rubber isn't very sticky, toe hurts when walking downhill. Finally wore through the rands last week.

 

I have a pair of those Boulder X's as well. I find they work pretty well for rock scrambles, approaches and the like, but I've also had issues with chunks of the sole falling off. I only paid half price for them, and would probablh buy another pair at that reduced price.

[G-spotter]

Correction - my crappy shoes are the B5, which was the precursor to the Boulder X.

[bearbreeder]

my tennies are still working .... 3 years now ...