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Posted

Cannon Power Shot A560 can only do so much I guess...

 

As I approached I remember looking at the N Face and thinking that left around the shrund would be best also..

 

I can send you the pic if it helps.

 

d

Posted
Nastia loves the epic. She's an epicmonger... :)
That explains why she hangs w Ivan so much...
Yep, it is mutual... :)
And here I thought it was because he's such a charming and erudite Renaissance Man...
Posted

Here is the pic taken a couple of weeks earlier during our reckon of the shrund. Pretty much the same approach with a higher drop off down to the Eliot gl from Cooper Spur (at 7800') than the one marked with a cairn (at 6800').

 

The alternative approach is to start at the T-lodge and traverse across the Newton Clark gl (which can be crevassed) below the Black Spider wall to the Tie-In rock on Cooper Spur and from there to the left gully. It is less vert gain, may be faster and you dont need to shuttle the car if you are coming down the south side. I have not done it though.

 

6572157525_9d9795d126_b.jpg

 

On the upper part of the route, we veered off to the left more than needed trying to dodge the constant spindrifts coming down the upper Eliot.

 

Steve, it started dumping up there. Are you going to ski the North face? Be careful.

Posted
And here I thought it was because he's such a charming and erudite Renaissance Man...

Did you know Paul that Ivan submitted his application for the "Tsar of All Russia" position to the russian government? :)

Too many thiefs and crooks there, - just about time to start inviting vikings like in the past..

 

Greatest russian painters represent "Ivan the Terrible and His Son Ivan on November 16th, 1581", Oil on canvas, 1885. How charming is that? :)

800px-REPIN_Ivan_Terrible%26Ivan.jpg

 

 

Posted

A-

 

I have gone around the hill a couple of times, but only to get back to Cloud Cap. Crossing the Newton Clark is pretty straight forward and both times (mid October and early July) I have done it crevasses were not an issue. In fact, both times were done sans rope, the first time actually solo. However, if coming round to get on to the Elliot one needs to ascend up the Spur and then turn around and lose it again.

 

 

Posted
And here I thought it was because he's such a charming and erudite Renaissance Man...

Did you know Paul that Ivan submitted his application for the "Tsar of All Russia" position to the russian government? :)

Too many thiefs and crooks there, - just about time to start inviting vikings like in the past..

 

Greatest russian painters represent "Ivan the Terrible and His Son Ivan on November 16th, 1581", Oil on canvas, 1885. How charming is that? :)

800px-REPIN_Ivan_Terrible%26Ivan.jpg

 

looks about like our playing w/ legos scene this afternoon :)

Posted

Thanks Nastia, cool! I am thinking more of climbing it soon. Looks like the weather window just slipped away for the time being. 6 inches of new up there right now in the past few hours, and supposed to storm all week.

I never thought Ivan so much epiced as embraced epicing. If the guy can maintain his cool stuck in a cave underground in a tight little rock tube, my thought is he can keep his cool anywhere.

Posted
I have gone around the hill a couple of times, but only to get back to Cloud Cap. Crossing the Newton Clark is pretty straight forward and both times (mid October and early July) I have done it crevasses were not an issue. In fact, both times were done sans rope, the first time actually solo. However, if coming round to get on to the Elliot one needs to ascend up the Spur and then turn around and lose it again.

 

Good to know there are no crevasses on the Newton Clark. I have not done the circumnavigation so I would not know :).

 

Why however would you need to go around the Spur and drop down to the Eliot if you are heading up the left gully on the NF? The traverse from the Tie-in rock is very straightforward.

 

I do see the need to go around and down the Spur if one is to climb the right gully or Sunshine/Coe's for that matter.

Posted
Looking SW toward Jefferson @ 9000ft on the spur. Is this the Newton Clark Gl you all are referring to?

 

IMG_08803.JPG

 

Are those wind slab crowns or crevasses?? Yikes

Posted
Good to know there are no crevasses on the Newton Clark. I have not done the circumnavigation so I would not know :).

 

Slight nit - I did not say there were no crevasses, there are, just that they were not a problem when traversing back from the South Side to Cooper's Spur. The first time I when through in Oct there were cracks but they were not significant. When we went through in early July we did not cross any. Also the traverse starts high around 9400'-9200' and finally regaining the Spur at around 7500' or so. Someone doing the same from T-line is apt to be lower thus could run into crevasses issues lower down as they gain altitude on the approach.

 

 

Why however would you need to go around the Spur and drop down to the Eliot if you are heading up the left gully on the NF? The traverse from the Tie-in rock is very straightforward.

 

I did not mean to go around then up the up the Spur. But when coming from Newton Clark one is coming in perpendicular to the spur. Depending on where one gains the spur the glacier is may be 200-300 vertical feet below Spur. So to gain it one needs to climb up the side of the spur. Then as you say traverse over if high enough or drop down to the Elliot.

 

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