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Warm jacket needed


Gregory.S.
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I have pretty much every layer I need for a while (minus a general warm coat to use when belaying or hanging out around camp). I went up on adams over the summer and even at the lunch counter I was pretty uncomfortable in my thermal + softshell and an outershell I brought with me. I bought a thin performance fleece for when I am active (if it is really cold) but want to buy a warmer jacket, possibly a down jacket.

 

I know that down has some serious issues with water but I have not seen too many synthetics that I liked yet. I have a hardshell now and figured I could wear it over any down I buy but I am not sure how practical that would be? I would also possibly be wearing it around town / school as It can get pretty miserable during the winter.

 

Any recommendations or opinions on my choices would be appreciated.

 

Options so far (favorite to least favorite)

 

 

http://www.rei.com/product/802247/rei-antifreeze-down-jacket-mens

 

http://www.amazon.com/Marmot-Stockholm-Down-Jacket-Mens/dp/B002OLYBIK

 

http://www.backcountry.com/montbell-thermawrap-bc-insulation-jacket-mens

Edited by Gregory.S.
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The Montbell Thermawrap is a fantastic synthetic puffy, but it is I consider it a three-season puffy. The others you mention look like they offer enough warmth for the average bear during the winter (except for wet overnight trips and cold ice climbing belays).

 

Get a hoody. Make sure it fits over a helmet if you're doing that sort of climbing.

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Lots of hiking and mountains like adams, hood, baker, rainier during fall and summer. I do like the idea of having a coat that would just keep me supppppper warm. I am also looking at the Mountain Hardwear compressor (below). I think Its between the mountain hardwear, rei antifreeze and marmot down.

 

I know down gets wet pretty quickly but if its practical to just put under a hardshell I may get that so I can stay extra warm.

 

 

http://www.backcountry.com/mountain-hardwear-compressor-insulated-hooded-jacket-mens?CMP_SKU=MHW1910&MER=0406&CMP_ID=SH_FRO001&mv_pc=r126&mr:trackingCode=883D7A1E-27F7-E011-87D9-001B21A69EB8&mr:referralID=NA

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The Compressor is a nice jacket and more on par with the warmth of the down models.

 

Down only gets wet if you let it. Don't use it in the rain or as an outer layer in wet snow conditions (I don't use mine as an outer snow layer in the Cascades basically ever). The biggest perk of synthetic is that it dries faster than down while in the mountains. That said, a wet puffy jacket regardless of its fill material is still a wet jacket.

 

Another good option is the Patagonia DAS. Synthetic and super warm, but bulkier.

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I have the MH compressor jacket and it is great for 3 seasons, but it lacks a bit in colder winter conditions (which is why I also have a large 4 season down puffy). Still, if you really don't want to purchase a 4 season down puffy you can get a lot of mileage out of the MH compressor jacket by layering it with a warm fleece and a hard shell. Plus, I like the versatility with the layering. However, be prepared to get a little uncomfortable in cold conditions. Nothing horrible, but you may find yourself sneaking the occasional jealous look at your partner in his/her toasty big ass puffy.

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Personally I really prefer a synthetic (like the compressor) because you don't have to worry about it and manage it like you might with down. Down has its place. For overnighters in the summer you can avoid getting wet or just head home when the rain starts, but if you are gonna be out in any other season, or for multiple days in the summer, you are going to find yourself getting wet from time to time. I would never bring a down jacket on a long winter route around here because of spindrift, and because when it's really cold I might climb in it a bit, which leads to snow melting on it.

 

Hardshell over down isn't a great solution (at least for a really thick puffy) because it will compress the down and limit how much heat it can hold. Also, as the sweat evaporates from your inner layers, it will make the down damp, and the hardshell will prevent it from breathing well and drying out. Again this is not really an issue on shorter trips, but something to think about. I think about my puffy as a piece of survival equipment for unexpected weather and unplanned bivies, and when things are starting to get weird up there you don't want to be worrying about proper layering and keeping things dry.

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I'd grab the micropuff pullover here - $40, its as warm as the compressor jacket, if your a medium it fits over all your layers (no hood) and light - add a down sweater and your golden even in really cold temps

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1038849/Re_FS_Cleaning_out_the_closet_#Post1038849

 

For serious warmth I really like my EB Peak XV

Edited by robpatterson5
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Im going to do most if not all of my climbing spring / summer / fall, nothing in the winter. Right now I am leaning towards the MH Compressor (hooded). I have the MH Axial hardshell and can fit a big puffy underneath it so I think it should be okay. From what I have been reading a down puffy might not be the best choice.

 

 

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Im going to do most if not all of my climbing spring / summer / fall, nothing in the winter. Right now I am leaning towards the MH Compressor (hooded). I have the MH Axial hardshell and can fit a big puffy underneath it so I think it should be okay. From what I have been reading a down puffy might not be the best choice.

 

 

Puffy goes over the shell at belays/rest stops/cold summit days and yes in this climate synthetic is generally perfered over down.

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I second a DAS jacket and can't really speak to many others. What I can say is you can find really good deal buying one used. New is always nice but you can get a better jacket in your price range buying used. you can find them a lot on CC or mountain project.

Just a thought.

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i have a patagonia down sweater that i layer with a long sleeve base and a windpro fleece,think capalin 4, and then if necessary a light weight hard shell,which is a first ascent "rainier" shell. and for serious warmth i can add a western mountaineering "meltdown" jacket. the meltdown weighs about 18 0z. and is hooded the down sweater weighs about 9 oz. the shell is about 15 oz.you can learn more at their web sites.

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I broke and ordered the MH compressor (hooded) from REI. I am kind of torn because though it is warm I am not sure how well it would hold up on rainier during those really cold moments around camp. Back to my original dilemma.

 

I too had a similar dilemma and did some research. The MH Compressor Hooded Jacket has ~100g of Thermic Micro insulation. I wasn't able to find CLO values on the efficiency of that insulation, but it's not as warm as Primaloft One, which has a CLO value of .92. I'm guessing it's somewhere in the .8 range.

 

I think it's a great jacket for a warm day on Rainier and pretty much any 3 season climbing, but I personally would want something a little warmer for summit day on Rainier. Or, you could pair it with another lighter weight insulating piece like a nano puff.

 

My two cents.

 

EDIT: I should add that I own a Thermawrap Parka which has 80g of Montbell's proprietary insulation called Exceloft. It's CLO value is only .68, which makes it about as warm as a nano puff at 60g Primaloft One. I had this as my single insulating layer on Rainier at around freezing temps, and wished I had brought more. The Compressor is probably around 30% warmer than the Thermawrap, but I personally don't think it's enough for standing around if temps were to get quite chilly. Something along the lines of a DAS would be more of a sure bet...

Edited by whitenoise
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