Who bolted the top of R&D?

[kurthicks]

I saw a pair of new rap bolts on R&D today, a ways to the left of the boulder on top. Looks like they're pretty fresh--in fact i know they are less than two months old.

 

Who wants to claim them?

[Crillz]

Not sure who put them in, but I thought it might have been some rescue thing because there was an orange flag on them.

 

Also, they've been there for more than two months. Seen them earlier in the summer. They seem pretty worthless to me.

[kurthicks]

OK, maybe three months. I know they weren't there in June when i did the route last.

 

any other insights?

[Fairweather]

I climbed it on May 28th. They were not there then.

[lancegranite]

I wonder if they are for one of the lines to the left of the last pitch?

[Dave A.]

The two rap bolts on top were placed for rescuers to access the ledge below. There are also more bolts behind the large tree on that ledge. The Chelan Co. Sheriffs office does practices there and rescues from that ledge average one per year. The large tree has become somewhat shaky and is no longer suitable for use as an anchor.

[kurthicks]

Thanks for the info Dave (although it is alarming and frustrating in a number of ways).

 

 

[genepires]

is it frustrating because it is a trip hazard, unneeded rap route when easy walk off or a rap route that doesn't go to the bottom?

 

It seems like there could be solutions to these issues. Maybe the SAR could remove the hangers and bring them up for when a rescue or training is being performed. Or place the bolts in a better location.

 

Without seeing it, I would think that the bolted anchors might be used by beginners thinking there are more bolted station going to the ground. But it sounds like there are only 2 stations so they will be forced into some unwanted situations.

[kurthicks]

They aren't a tripping hazard, but I think your other points Gene are all valid. It's also crazy because a perfectly good anchor can be built about 10' away in a horizontal crack, though it may be the case that the fall-line rap isn't quite as good.

 

Taking the hangers between missions/training seems like the best idea since I bet someone who's unaware of their purpose will take (or chop) them.

 

I will check out their usability as a rap anchor the next time I'm up there.

[chris]

I noticed them a few weeks ago, and meant to ask some of my local friends if they knew what was up. Kurt, I know the crack you're speaking of, but I don't think its really optimal for a hauling scenario from that ledge.

 

I'd be really nervous about someone beating on the bolts and damaging the threads if I took the hangers off.

[kurthicks]

It's probably not optimal, but what did they use before the bolts went in?

[JasonG]

sounded like a tree that is no longer as bomber as it once was....

[kurthicks]

I don't know if Dave is referring to the tree on top, or the tree on the ledge where the last pitch starts.

[Crillz]

I think if you rapped off that side where that bolt anchor is, you'd need two ropes (which most teams probably don't have on that wall). For sure, you need two ropes to rap from that big ass tree up above cocaine crack.

[Dave A.]

The tree would be on the ledge below, climbers left of the start of the last short pitch of R&D (and directly below the rap bolts on top). The crack between the flake and the main wall directly behind the tree is not really suitable for protecting as the flake is quite rotten. As the SAR deputies don't climb, and CCMR's limited pool of volunteers is usually climbing somewhere out of phone range bolted anchors are a reasonable solution.

[kurthicks]

Sounds good Dave.

 

I'm not in disagreement with the use of the bolts for SAR purposes; I was just hoping that all alternatives had been considered prior to the installation and it sounds like they have. I was and am primarily concerned that new convenience anchors weren't sprouting in the Icicle.