Training for winter climbing

[B Deleted_Beck]

howdy

 

breaking through pow, heavy packs, plastic boots... ugh. what are you guys doing to condition this fall?

 

thanks

 

-ben

[genepires]

define "winter climbing"

 

I would say hanging for time from ice tools, hitting the rock gym and doing calf work. Me thinks you want to climb mtns not icicles.

[wetslide]

He just did define it..."breaking through snow, heavy packs, plastic boots...". If you really want to suffer climb Si with loads on your back. If not, ease into it with opportunistic climbs and skis. Myself, I just climbed the West Ridge of Chair Peak.

[DPS]

I just climbed the West Ridge of Chair Peak.

I've always wondered about the west side of Chair. Can you post a TR, hopefully with some photos?

[wetslide]

How about a video? [video:youtube]

Overall, some loose rock but worth the trip. Definitely an adventure climb.

[Bronco]

howdy

 

breaking through pow, heavy packs, plastic boots... ugh. what are you guys doing to condition this fall?

 

thanks

 

-ben

 

I like ride my bike in the dark and rain without rain gear or gloves. Try box jumps and lunges wearing a pack and fogged up goggles while someone intermitantly sprays you with the garden hose and slaps you with a wet cedar bough. Get used to being discouraged/cold/wet/fatiged/miserable for a couple hours.

[DPS]

Geebus. Nice video! Ok then, the questions?

 

1) How did you approach?

 

2) Was the rock as solid as it looked?

 

3) Were you climbing an established route?

 

4) How would you grade the climb (YDS/Commmittment grade) in the conditions you climbed it?

 

you gotta know this one is coming...

 

5) What is your assessment of the potential for winter routes on this side of the Mt?

 

TIA,

 

Dan

 

6) Why have I never been to that side of Chair Peak?

Edited September 27, 2011 by DPS

[DPS]

Is this as cool as it looks or did I take too many pain meds? I'm serious, I took a lot of pain meds.

[DPS]

This looks like good training for winter climbing.

[wetslide]

1. We approached as you would for the North Face, but just kept going.

2. The rock was solid as it looked, until it wasn't. In other words there were definitely solid portions, but you had to test each hold because there was an equal amount of choss.

3. Yes, Martin Volkin (sp?) I believe put this route up. Although I think we took a variation that very well could have been a FA, but who knows.

4. 5.7, grade 3.

5. We talked about the potential for a winter route. It would be fun for sure. I would do it.

Cheers.

[DPS]

Cool, thanks.

[genepires]

He just did define it..."breaking through snow, heavy packs, plastic boots...".

 

no, it is not defined. Ice climbing in washington involves "breaking through snow, heavy packs, plastic boots...". MIxed climbing can involve "breaking through snow, heavy packs, plastic boots...". Climbing rainier in winter involves "breaking through snow, heavy packs, plastic boots...". Hell, even sport climbing can sometimes involve "breaking through snow, heavy packs, plastic boots...".

 

If anyone is really getting interested in "breaking through snow, heavy packs, plastic boots...", I sincerely hope their avi skills are fine tuned.

[Kyle_Flick]

That's funny...and true.

[B Deleted_Beck]

what makes you think i'm talking about anything BEYOND "breaking pow, heavy packs, plastic boots?"

[genepires]

what makes you think i'm talking about anything BEYOND "breaking pow, heavy packs, plastic boots?"

 

because if you want to train for "breaking pow, heavy packs, plastic boots", then go load up your pack with 80 pounds, put on your plastic boots and go stomp around in some heavy snow which should be here in a couple weeks. (on way to muir) Or at least simulate the single important aspects like wear your boots while wearing a 80# pack and hike up stadium stairs.

 

But your question had the implication that the "breaking pow, heavy pack and plastic boots" was a certain aspect of your bigger goal. Training should have a goal otherwise it is general fitness.

 

For example. If your goal is to climb rainier, the training will be different than a goal of climbing chair peak.

 

Besides "breaking pow, heavy packs, plastic boots" suck IMO.

but to each their own.

[Bronco]

howdy

 

breaking through pow, heavy packs, plastic boots... ugh. what are you guys doing to condition this fall?

 

thanks

 

-ben

 

Get an AT ski setup and learn to pack lighter?

[KaskadskyjKozak]

howdy

 

breaking through pow, heavy packs, plastic boots... ugh. what are you guys doing to condition this fall?

 

thanks

 

-ben

 

I like biking in the rain - the colder and more miserable the better. Becoming inured to the daily suffering makes winter climbing easier.

 

 

[Bronco]

Yup, builidng a resistance to demoralization is pretty valuable.

[cam yarder]

training? what is training?

[Julian]

I have a dinky little drytool training setup I put up in my gym, which is about as good as it gets for training for winter climbing in Florence, SC besides just doing stuff like weights and cardio. My friend made a little video of it today (please forgive my embarrassing technique):

 

EDIT: the video code isn't working, here's a direct link:

 

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10100140170035036

Edited September 29, 2011 by Julian

[Buckaroo]

Training for winter climbing,

breaking through pow, heavy packs, plastic boots... ugh. what are you guys doing to condition this fall?

 

thanks

 

-ben

 

carry 90 pound packs full of nitro-glycerine. Jump off cliffs and catch yourself on the edge with one tool

 

Long time ago I had a wood ice training wall made of 2x8's with holes drilled to place ice screws.

 

Now the only time I "train" is when I'm climbing.