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flashclimber

New Routes at Exit 38?

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Never trust your life to one bolt! Every winter water penetrates rock and freezes..Eventfully over time all routes will be rubble at the base!

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You guys pissed me off so much, that I went to Exit 38 today with my pry bar....

 

rock_fall.JPG

 

That's not even a real rock. Check out the tiny flake feature photoshopped 8 times in the image.

 

Regardless, I have seen good bolts and questionable bolts at a variety of crags. People need to look carefully and decide what can be trusted and what cannot. Matt's right that it's generally not good practice to belay or rap off a single bolt, at least not when there are other good options available. I understand Alex's point that everyone should find their own comfort level without interference, but sometimes we need to try to keep the kids from killing themselves, even if it sounds annoying. If it prevents an accident it's worthwhile.

 

Lucky, we appreciate the work you and others have done on new routes. While I won't go as far as Raindude, I do feel that placing a bolt is a permanent act of intrusion that should only be done after careful consideration. Does the line merit bolting? Will the bolt protect the moves intended? Is the bolt in solid rock away from cracks or other failure points? Is it placed so the direction of pull is in line with the strongest axis of the hanger? Does the placement minimize ropedrag? Does the bolt put rope, biner, or quickdraws in danger at a sharp edge? Is there a decent clipping stance? Will the route be too closely bolted? Too run out? Is there a good opportunity for natural gear nearby. And on and on.

 

There is no magic formula. I've seen very experienced bolters put bolts in stupid places, and unfortunately, it brings down the quality of the resulting route.

 

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Due to our jobs my son and I have placed thousands of bolts, glued or wedge anchors on the job that are inspected after placement, I think we have it down...when placing a bolt on a route many factors are taken in ...rock quality, fall factor,in line with the climb or fall, if RAINDAWG would approve :lmao: you get what you get.

I have climbed just about all the routes in north bend area, the rock quality of the new routes is no different than that the rest of the area, in fact better than some of the other new climbs going in.

Bail'n off a route would be the only reason to trust your life to one bolt...so Visually evaluate the bolt before you commit your life to it.

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Anyone know anything about the route to the right of Endless Bliss on the right margin of the main slab? Below and right of EB are 3 routes (10d,12a,11c). Then to the right of these is a line that goes up a right leading ramp to a jug haul above - 5.7/8? After looking back at the rock from the trail, I think the route I'm talking about may go off the top of this one. But we didn't know that at the time, so didn't look up to explore. (the 10c is just to the right of the 7/8.) TIA.

 

showphoto.php?photo=70528&title=gun-show&cat=500 approx line in blue..

why isn't the photo displayed??

Edited by russ

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Right of EB is a 10d that is short but fun. Just right of that is an 11d that is short with a bouldery thin crux. I think the 7/8 you're mentioning is just a bit right of the 11d. This joins the ramp of the 10c. Then down the hill a bit is the 10c (more like 10a), which trends left on a ramp before jogging back right and up to the anchors. There is an excellent 11c that starts at the same spot as the 10c but goes straight up into the hanging corner and then up overhanging jugs. The 10c and 11c share the same anchor so you can toprope the 11c after climbing the 10c, though there is a bit of ropedrag. Right of that is a relatively new line that is 11a/b. It's short but high quality (thanks Jens!).

 

The 10a/10d two pitch line starts quite a bit down and right at the bottom of the formation. It looks OK (I haven't done it yet) but rarely gets climbed.

 

So the photo you linked is out of date and has several errors. Not sure whether Garth is doing any more updates to the website or book. Has anyone heard form him in recent years?

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PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT

 

I went up to x38 and glued this hold/block back in place and tightened up the hanger.

 

All should be good now.

 

Climb on!

 

You guys pissed me off so much, that I went to Exit 38 today with my pry bar.

 

Just to prove a point that all the rock there is "crap" I pried off that section of rock with the bolt the chick repeatedly fell on. It pulled with little effort.

 

Suck on that!

 

rock_fall.JPG

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Not sure whether Garth is doing any more updates to the website or book. Has anyone heard form him in recent years?

 

Garth and I try and climb together once a week and he is working on updating his website. I do know it will be a totally new format. Not sure when that will be completed because he runs his own business and that is his priority. A new book is not planned for at least a year or more.

 

There has been a lot of development since the last book came out and there are a few other walls that are in the planning stages. I have offered to assist him in gathering all the new route activity and I am just in the beginning stages. So the first step would be to ask all the route setters to provide accurate information on any new development they would like to make public. After that it would just be a matter of getting out there and photographing the walls, marking the routes on the photos and then confirming that the information is correct before it is put on the new web site.

If anyone has any new info or any contact info for persons who have put up any new routes please PM me and I will get you my email address. With all the new routes that have gone in this may take some time to compile.

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

 

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Garth being accepted by the climbers that developed the area than jack'n the beta, changing names and rateings of routes(every route on the black slab is not 5.9) and writing a guide book without First Accent information in it, is not only rude it's a smack in the face of climbing history.

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I understand where Lucky is coming from, though the routes I've done were after the last edition came out.

 

I respect that pulling together a book, even a mediocre one, is a huge amount of work. But it pales in comparison to the amount of time, effort, and money needed to put in all of the routes.

 

A new or updated guide is surely needed that contains route info and grades, approach info, first ascent/history, and any other relevant info on all the climbs. The guidebook author should obtain that info directly from the developers, otherwise important info may be missed. For this reason, the guidebook author should endeavor to build a trusting relationship with developers in order to ensure the best outcome.

 

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Lots of activity north of I-90 at 38, almost enough to lure the hardmen away from the beloved World Walls.

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We had the pleasure of climbing one of the new routes on the left side of Deception Wall last night, Derailed 10+. The one with an easy lower pitch that leads into a cool overhang. Fun moves on excellent rock up above. The upper portion was just so much fun, I give that route 4 stars! Thanks to the bolter for the new development, great addition. The 11a to the right was sweet too, just need some more time before I can send that one.

 

Rads new routes on the hill side above were all great too. We climbed those 4 last season and had a fun day. Macbeth I think is the name of one of those? Cool little crag.

 

Lucky's 5.9+ on deception wall is seeing lots of traffic too. Very popular route with people happily climbing it all the time.

 

Hats off to you guys for the hard work! Noramly we wouldn't even climb this area but these new routes all seem great. Keep on bolting fellas! These lines are neither contrived squeeze jobs nor worthless choss. They are good lines seeing lots of ascents.

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I'm with Rad. Cool, and thanks. I really appreciate feedback on my routes. And you the climbers are why we do it all. I'll be going out there soon to finish the last line on that wall that has been nearly complete since before my big trip to the Valley LAST year. And I've decided to move the anchors down on the Derailed and La Vida Locamotive. I originally thought they were better all the way up on the natural ledge stance like a gear climb, but having witnessed some trs on those routes it think its messy and hard on the rope. Also I've been hearing people say that another bolt between the first and second on La Vida would be nice, so with enough voices that may happen... Cheers to all. I hope your climbing weekend was as good as ours!

 

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I'd like to add my thanks to Quarryographer, Rad, Lucky and everyone else who has put in the time and money to bolt new routes at 38. I had a great day at Deception Wall on Saturday, and look forward to going back to finish off the remaining routes I have left to do there.

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