Wallstein Posted July 28, 2011 Posted July 28, 2011 What is up with that first 5.11+ pitch? I know Andrew Philbman has done it but he has steel fingers and he climbs 5.14. Anyone else ever actually redpoint that thing? Darryl what sort of performance enhancing drugs were you on when you put that thing up? Quote
RuMR Posted July 28, 2011 Posted July 28, 2011 That thing's first pitch is hard...really hard... Quote
Wallstein Posted July 28, 2011 Author Posted July 28, 2011 Thats what I thought Rudy. Maybe its just harder if you are a midget like us? Quote
RuMR Posted July 28, 2011 Posted July 28, 2011 Philbin's a shorty, and i'm pretty sure Ben's done it...I kinda want to unleash Drew on it and see what he does... Quote
JonNelson Posted July 28, 2011 Posted July 28, 2011 "Darryl what sort of performance enhancing drugs were you on when you put that thing up?" I don't think Darryl checks up on this site much. Try posting on RCNW.net and he'll probably reply right away. Jon Quote
DCramer Posted July 28, 2011 Posted July 28, 2011 Been working too much. Jon, I'll let you know about Saturday the negotiations are at a delicate point right now. Mike - Here is my drug of choice... Quote
Water Posted July 28, 2011 Posted July 28, 2011 that looks delicious. truth be told i ate a 7-day old McDonalds Sausage biscuit last weekend and it tasted the same as 1hr 'old'. Holds real well in the mnts Quote
Wallstein Posted July 28, 2011 Author Posted July 28, 2011 Nice Darryl. I'm going to try that tomorrow and see what happens. I sent you an email. Quote
Jens Posted July 29, 2011 Posted July 29, 2011 one hanged it on an onsight attempt about 15 years ago. Quote
RuMR Posted July 29, 2011 Posted July 29, 2011 one hanging it and sending it are two different things...same thing with me...one hung it ten times in a row including the first time... Quote
Wallstein Posted July 29, 2011 Author Posted July 29, 2011 Wow really? One hang first go? You are talking about the pitch off the ground right? Not the one off the ledge? Thats pretty impressive. Quote
Jens Posted July 29, 2011 Posted July 29, 2011 Not the one on the ground. Our topo was to come in from the left near "12 angry bees?". I didn't even know their was a pitch proper off the deck. I guess I should have looked at the guidebook better Quote
RuMR Posted July 29, 2011 Posted July 29, 2011 Wow really? One hang first go? You are talking about the pitch off the ground right? Not the one off the ledge? Thats pretty impressive. The straight up pitch off the ground...never actually sent that pitch... Quote
Wallstein Posted July 29, 2011 Author Posted July 29, 2011 Ok now that makes a bit more sense Jens. I also one hung the pitch off the ledge but couldn't even touch the pitch off the ground. Quote
bigwallben Posted August 4, 2011 Posted August 4, 2011 (edited) Philbin's a shorty, and i'm pretty sure Ben's done it...I kinda want to unleash Drew on it and see what he does... Can't say I've done it or tried it. Though, years ago after climbing the traditional swim and rapping to the base, Drew gave it a spirited onsight and came off near the end. It was an impressive show. It seemed to me like there was potential for a free variation just before the bolt ladder to the right. Not sure though; something in my memory of a small right facing corner to roof. Actually, I think it has been done on aid. Get er' done Mike. Venga. Edited August 4, 2011 by bigwallben Quote
soulreaper Posted August 4, 2011 Posted August 4, 2011 Definitely a reach issue on that one. Not that the climbing getting up to the crux isn't hard enough, but without the reachy part at the end it might be feasible at .11+ (AKA Little Si .12c). The issue is having to do an extra move or two on a blunt feature if you can't reach a juggy hold above from a decent stance. Oh wait. Actually there's a pretty thin move getting over that first little roof too, but I never fell there. Hmm... I would bet that Darryl, Greg et al were/are really, really good at that ultra technical edgy stuff. I still think overhanging 5.13 is easier than some of those hair-under-vertical Index sport routes of lesser grades. Much less mentally taxing, at least and often less physically taxing as well. Quote
soulreaper Posted August 4, 2011 Posted August 4, 2011 The first pitch of Swim (from the ground) is easily as hard as that pitch and the other crux pitches on Rise and Fall...and just as good! But, IMHO, the pitch in your picture is believable at .12b...at Index...on a nice cool day...and whoops, I meant .12a/b! Quote
RuMR Posted August 4, 2011 Posted August 4, 2011 gotta love index..."Maam, i'd like another helping of humble pie, please" Quote
boadman Posted August 4, 2011 Posted August 4, 2011 The first time I went to index I was a relatively new climber, and didn't trad climb very well so I was excited when I saw a multi-pitch "sport" climb that was within the realm of feasibility in terms of the grade (Swim). Boy, did I ever get shut down. I'm not sure if I even got the third bolt clipped. I didn't go back to Index for about 4 years. Quote
bigwallben Posted August 4, 2011 Posted August 4, 2011 Definitely a reach issue on that one. Not that the climbing getting up to the crux isn't hard enough, but without the reachy part at the end it might be feasible at .11+ (AKA Little Si .12c). Interesting to note that although climbing at Index vs. Si is like apples and oranges, a certain peripatetic rock crusher recently noted that Progaganda 12c at Si felt more like 13a to him. If only he could compare it to 'blue in the face' 12c at blues cliff. To me it seems more like a familiarity issue. When I was climbing lots at Index the grades didn't seem so sandbagged...well, if the conditions were good, and I happened to be on a non-reachy route...and the stars were aligned; and of course, if I had wired it on top rope. Ha ha ha. Quote
Jens Posted August 4, 2011 Posted August 4, 2011 I also remember reading mountain magazine (93?) with the article about all the new multi pitch sport routes at index upper town at "modest grades". I promptly headed up and ate some humble pie to say the least and scurried home with my tail between my legs. I love index and not that rock climbing is about numbers, but I would have to say index has the stoutest ratings of the 35 US states I've climbed in. Many of the easier routes at areas like the Gunks, etc. are super sandbagged but the higher grades are actually soft compared to out west. Quote
RuMR Posted August 5, 2011 Posted August 5, 2011 I also remember reading mountain magazine (93?) with the article about all the new multi pitch sport routes at index upper town at "modest grades". I promptly headed up and ate some humble pie to say the least and scurried home with my tail between my legs. I love index and not that rock climbing is about numbers, but I would have to say index has the stoutest ratings of the 35 US states I've climbed in. Many of the easier routes at areas like the Gunks, etc. are super sandbagged but the higher grades are actually soft compared to out west. Quote
rocketparrotlet Posted August 5, 2011 Posted August 5, 2011 I basically learned to climb at Index and have done very little sport. I actually find face climbing to be harder for the grade sometimes than some of the climbs at Index. It's definitely stiffer than the ratings at the Smoke Bluffs, but for some reason, moderate face climbing often shuts me down. Just what you're used to I guess. I've also heard that it gets stiffer as the grades increase, and I'm not good enough to have seen that firsthand. Quote
soulreaper Posted August 24, 2011 Posted August 24, 2011 As a footnote, I just climbed this pitch in the rain on Monday (with some slipping on wet footholds). I'm starting to believe it's actually .11d. Quote
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