Trent Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 Trip: Repulse Peak - South Ridge Date: 6/20/2011 Trip Report: I was way behind. In the seemingly never ending quest for the Repulsive 69, I had been losing ground for the past two years to the crew. For the uninitiated, the Repulsive 69 are the top 69 most obscure and unaesthetic peaks the Cascade Range has to offer. If it is in a selected climbs guide, the peak is automatically rejected from the list for principles sake. I needed to reverse this disturbing trend and get back into the chase. At the annual peak bagging slide show, my talk of bolts, warm granite, and cragging had brought a round of snickers from the crowd. I needed to regain some semblance of authority and boost my self-worth a bit. What better peak to bag to show them that I was back than the namesake of the list, Repulse! The crew (Jason, AKA Snafflebait; Gord, AKA Alberto Tomba; Scott, AKA The Moatmaster; and Tim, AKA Perro Rapido), had bagged the peak in excellent style, nabbing the second ascent of the original route. See link . Their verdict; it deserved to be part of the list, being very repulsive. To regain some stature and put myself back in the running, I needed that peak! I had to put myself in the Repulse club! A wet crossing would have been better An early wake-up put me at Swamp Creek at 0700; it was still misting. Repulsive weather, appropriate! A quick stumble down to Granite Creek, and I found a log to cross at the perfect spot. Too convenient, this would not make a good repulsive story. Postholing through the timber was not so bad; at least the brush was under the snow. Initially, I climbed up into the overcast, but then it lifted as I proceeded up the valley. Not so repulsive. Starting to look promising The climb to gain the South Ridge was actually sort of enjoyable, all on snow with minimal postholing. Too straight forward Fisher Peak: Once on the ridge, I did a self-belay to cross a wet-snow filled gulley; somewhat repulsive but not enough. It might finish strong! The finish was all on rock, which was not even that loose and was somewhat dry. Fun! The original summit register was still on the peak, signed by the Fireys back in 1971. Pretty cool actually. The descent was actually sort of fun; a few rappels and a lot of boot skiing, with the unavoidable post holing back to the car. Over all, this peak was not that repulsive! I was somewhat disappointed, but since I had climbed it, I was not going to let on to the crew that I actually had fun doing so. The official story: It was a horror fest. I am lucky to be alive telling you this story. I will have to do some creative editing for the slideshow. Take that, crew! I am back! Repulse Peak: (not so repulsive) Gear Notes: Class 3/4, take the appropriate pro. Approach Notes: Follow the true right side of the un-named creek across the highway from Swamp Creek. Early season is nice to avoid brush in the upper valley. Quote
Tyson.g Posted June 21, 2011 Posted June 21, 2011 That is the best sounding repulsive trip I have ever heard. You could have made it sound like it was at least a little crappy. Nice job! Tyson Quote
Otto Posted June 22, 2011 Posted June 22, 2011 Mmmm, Repulsive 69 is a great idea, very nice TR. Thanks for posting it. I may have done a few that qualify. I understand the requirement for total exclusion from "selected climbs" books, natch. Also, I would guess, no "stars" in any route descriptions. Do you have some more specific definitions? Quote
Tom_Sjolseth Posted June 22, 2011 Posted June 22, 2011 What a great.. err I meant lousy and repulsive.. peak. That summit register has seen a lot of action in the past few years. Quote
sepultura Posted June 22, 2011 Posted June 22, 2011 Word travels fast even here in AK....What a way to get back in the game! at the slide show we are going to want to see the pictures of you wallowing in devils club and gnawing through slide alder.....Nice work Bro! Quote
JasonG Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!! I swear the other side is VERY repulsive, in every sense of the word . .. But you have piqued my interest- I might just have to see this other, sweeter, side of the hill. Nice work there Mr. Flyboy, you are well on your way to catching the MoatMaster! Now that he is fishing for the summer, I see you have made your move. Too bad with the interwebs, he is watching your every move. Is it over ten ascents yet? Quote
JasonG Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 Otto- PM Trent, and he can email the list. I am sure you have done a few . . . Quote
wbk Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 Nice work Steve. Look forward to getting out there with you one of these days! I ended up clipping bolts at E32! Ha! Quote
therunningdog Posted June 23, 2011 Posted June 23, 2011 Holy CRAP, Steve! That sounds really, really traumatic! I'm glad you're OK and I have the number of a good therapist if you need one. Hang in there, buddy! Nice work getting up that eponymous dirty girl! Quote
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