YocumRidge Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Trip: Stuart - Stuart Glacier Couloir/West Ridge topout Date: 6/12/2011 Trip Report: Still being in a recovery mode after freezing my ass off in a snow cave on the Sandy HW, I bailed on Rainier and was looking for some warmer objective for a change. One of my favorite partners Phil Wesseler (LowLife) and I decided to head to Stuart and try the John Frieh’s “warm-up” route for Alaska – Stuart Glacier Couloir. None of us climbed Stuart before, so the “warm-up” (well, its extra bonus West Ridge in the current mixed conditions) turned out to be hmmm – stressful. I left PDX at 3 am on Sat, picked up Phil in Tacoma and we started at the Stuart lake TH at 9.30 am. Thanks to Kaskadsky Kazak for the north approach GPS track, we reached the Sherpa glacier basin at around 1.30 pm. Stuie from the approach: At the Sherpa basin: Next morning, still in the dark, we delivered cramponed ourselves to the Stuart glacier and got to the shrund at sunrise. Myself on the Stuart glacier: Great views: Stuart range: SGC from below the shrund: Phil approaching the shrund: The shrund is passable on the right - on rocks, snice and rime - before moving left back in the couloir. Phil soloing the crossing: The rest of the couloir was a composite of alpine ice and snice, the constriction was in decent WI shape and the topout to the summit ridge – melting snow. Lower in the couloir: Myself midway: Top out: We had soloed the entire couloir including the shrund crossing and the constriction, and so did Jens Holsten and his partner who were behind us (my apologies guys for raining ice down on you). Apparently, the couloir is supposed to be only the approach. West Ridge was up next. What a bitch, a great bonus for sure. We traversed the south side and simul soloed the snice/thin ice/rock steps to the twin horns. First 15 feet off the notch were shaky with tools blowing through the rime but things improved higher up or perhaps we became more immune to the terrain. Roping up for the north side: Phil is leading the double crack pitch: More ridge traversing follows: Phil has freed the crux. No hangs! Stoked! Finally, the rimey summit ridge and badassed dogs who will be skiing the Ullrich Couloir later: On the summit: Thanks Phil for being an awesome partner! Gear Notes: Used: Master cam #0, C4s 0.3-2, stoppers. Brought but not used: 2 ice screws, 1 picket, russian Ti pins. Approach Notes: Stuart Lake TH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 That looks FABULOUS!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 wait, where's the epic?! ya'll cruised! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain panther Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 hell yeah phil! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 wait, where's the epic?! ya'll cruised! no emergency room visits or snow cave bivy? WTF? ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted June 15, 2011 Author Share Posted June 15, 2011 I am multi-tasking, KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeShy Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Great work you two! It was great to meet you this weekend. Glad you both had a great climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spionin Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 nice! safe! much better style than the prior weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 I decided to head to Stuart and try the John Frieh's "warm-up" route for Alaska - Stuart Glacier Couloir. :laf: Well done team. Next time car to car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbcbd Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Route look dry now! Again, nice work on saving the healthcare system some money Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamelJockey Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Great work guys and nice hiking in with you on Saturday! -Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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