Broughton Question

[crackers]

Howdy All,

 

I gots me a question about your climbing at broughton.

 

Anybody here who's actually led OttoOpus feel it goes at 11+ R? Am I missing something? Like a sandbag?

 

Edited June 6, 2011 by crackers

[corvallisclimb]

I think you just need to work less and climb more

[billcoe]

I've never even heard of it....proving only that I need to get out of the house more and live a less sheltered life. Congrats on getting on it Graham.

 

Tyler, I have your next rebolting project....2nd ascent of the Matterhorn (Wallows), one of the longer rock climbs in Oregon. Great July/August project for you. Jeff Thomas said he thought that Dave Jenson might have used a batch of flawed Rawl bolts on the FA.

 

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/matterhorn-west-face-wall/106356964

[crackers]

I think you just need to work less and climb more

 

thet you tyler? thought you wuz in yo semite.

 

you led it?

 

i sure didn't. crap, i couldn't even pull the first real move. Bill, I'm faaaar from climbing that thing. Which does prove tyler's point.

 

Anyway it seemed much much harder than most if not all 11's i've climbed in this state. Not quite as bad as that blank section next to classic crack, but not that far off.

[corvallisclimb]

I think you just need to work less and climb more

 

thet you tyler? thought you wuz in yo semite.

 

you led it?

 

i sure didn't. crap, i couldn't even pull the first real move. Bill, I'm faaaar from climbing that thing. Which does prove tyler's point.

 

Anyway it seemed much much harder than most if not all 11's i've climbed in this state. Not quite as bad as that blank section next to classic crack, but not that far off.

 

 

hehe ya, leaving tomorrow, cuz I have to sit around and do nothing for two days before i have my blood drawn again, yippee! I'll see you hopefully sometime the second half of next week!

[Lodestone]

Howdy All,

 

I gots me a question about your climbing at broughton.

 

Anybody here who's actually led Otto feel it goes at 11+ R? Am I missing something? Like a sandbag?

 

 

I've never heard of Otto and I'm pretty familiar with Broughton Bluff. What wall is it on?

 

 

Chad

[pcg]

I've never heard of Otto...

I think he meant Opus.

[crackers]

I've never heard of Otto...

I think he meant Opus.

 

D'oh!

 

Yes. I meant Opus. 3 bolts to an anchor.

 

 

[ols]

OK...here's the clue

FFA = Dave S.

Whenever you see Dave's name as the FFA you know it will not be easier, and it will likely be hard, and perhaps even underrated (though he won't agree with that).

So now you have met the essence of Dave...before you actually have met him in person.

 

Oh yea...Broughton = slick textured rock which adds to the dimension

[billcoe]

[stevetimetravlr]

Seems like most of the stuff at Brougtons is a sandbag, for me that is!

[kevbone]

Seems like most of the stuff at Brougtons is a sandbag, for me that is!

 

And bolted poorly. Like Critical Mass is lacking the last bolt. IMO

[JosephH]

Dave just still has old school assumptions and expectations.

 

And bolted poorly. Like Critical Mass is lacking the last bolt. IMO

 

Oh, and though he may be old, one can suspect Dave is still packing a pair.

Edited June 7, 2011 by JosephH

[kevbone]

Dave just still has old school assumptions and expectations.

 

In other words big ego.

[JosephH]

In other words big ego.

No, just mad skills and a pair of balls to match.

[crackers]

OK...here's the clue

FFA = Dave S.

 

Fabulous. Thanks for the tip. seriously!

 

But is it FFA or is it ONLY FA?

 

Now that we've gotten the name right, has anybody led it?

 

I did this 10d in the gunks once. Hardest thing I've ever done at the grade at the time, and I think it still is. I fell and fell and finally got it in proper ground up style.

 

After I got it, I gave the guy who did the FA a call to ask him just what he had been thinking when he opened the route. Shouldn't he have called it 5.9+ if he was going to do that?

 

He stated that when he did the FFA, he had recently returned from Yosemite, where he had climbed this mind altering 5.11 that took everything he had in the tank and more. As such, it was provably inconceivable that he could possibly put up a 5.11 first ascent. Ergo, this climb is 5.10d(+++). Actually, (+++++) I definitely climbed 11b's in the gunks that have much easier crux moves but with more exposure. The climb stays at 10d because it's that "oh, if you can climb THAT, you're definitely ready for 11's..."

 

 

And Opus? I'd rate the move I haven't done at B2 . It's amazing movement, but I've never seen such a hard move on 11's that I can remember leading. I know I'm an incredibly weak never-was, but after watching a friend who used to do V9 and now climbs V5 onsight fall off in about the same horrific style that I do, well, at this point, I'd call Opus 5.11+ C2.

 

So ols, the rating is given by the FA? What about the community?

[JosephH]

He stated that when he did the FFA, he had recently returned from Yosemite, where he had climbed this mind altering 5.11 that took everything he had in the tank and more. As such, it was provably inconceivable that he could possibly put up a 5.11 first ascent.

Lots of hard old routes were put up when the hardest rating known was 5.10 or 5.11. We put up a few routes back in the mid 70's that we very much hesitated to call 5.11s, which in later decades were successively uprated to .12d/.13a depending on who you talked to. It's been the same at every rating break all along with no one really wanting to be the first person to claim to have upped the grade standard.

 

So ols, the rating is given by the FA? What about the community?

Maybe the community needs to man up.

[crackers]

So ols, the rating is given by the FA? What about the community?

Maybe the community needs to man up.

 

When I've actually climbed it, I'll give you my $0.02.

[kevbone]

Where is Opus at? What wall?

[hemp22]

red wall - between sheer stress and sheer energy.

 

i've never led it, but played on it on TR before, without being able to pull all the moves. I also can't do all the moves on Mr. Bentley either though, which is also "Broughton 11+".

I think Opus rarely gets any traffic...but I may know someone who's done it.

 

Graham, I think I saw you out there Saturday - how did the day go for you?

 

 

[crackers]

i've never led it, but played on it on TR before, without being able to pull all the moves. I also can't do all the moves on Mr. Bentley either though, which is also "Broughton 11+".

I think Opus rarely gets any traffic...but I may know someone who's done it.

 

I'd love to know what your friend thinks. We couldn't pull a single move, and I've done Mr Bentley. But I'm stoked to get back on it.

 

Graham, I think I saw you out there Saturday - how did the day go for you?

 

I had a good day. We split just after our Opus experience and ate a nice lunch in the sun. I hope the weather gets nice again soon.

[d_sowerby]

Is anyone saying that I didn't actually RP Opus? :-) One look at the guidebook would show that I'd led harder things around Portland. Yeah Opus is a little bouldery - it's also short - clip the first bolt with a locking 'biner and sack up. Tymun repeated it. If you think Opus is "hard" you should try "Genocide" or "Tarzan" or "Mowgli Direct". When these routes went in I was climbing at Broughton all the time and got pretty good at slippy, smooth basalt :-) I hope you have fun repeating some of my routes, I had fun putting them up.

Thanks for the "ego" comment Kevin, made me smile.

--------------dave