Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Dane

Do your crampons fit?

crampon fit  

129 members have voted

  1. 1. crampon fit

    • 2742
    • 2743


Recommended Posts

My ice setup is G12 semi with Trango Extreme 45.5.

 

One crampon that I get the best fit from on my size 45 boots (all of my single boots from La Sportiva and Scarpa) is the G12 using a Petzl front bail. Also one of the reasons I think that crampon climbs so well for me...is the exceptionally good fit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a pair of Petzl crampons that I don't think fit all that well on my Nepal Evo's because of the shape of the sole. They don't wiggle or rattle and are tight but you can see they do not match the curve of the sole. I've looked into the Asym bars but they're $45.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BD Cyborg Clips (2010) + Scarpa Charmoz = loose heel bails, with the adjuster maxed out. I'll have to improvise a fix.

 

I am running the Grivel Air Techs (New matic) with my Charmoz boots and they fit well, the heel fits very well. The front half of the crampon could match the rocker on the boot a bit better, but the pos are tight and work well.

 

I am actually thinking I may bend the front a bit to match the rocker - then the fit would be 100%.

 

Jim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Petzl offers a climbing bail and a ski boot bail. Good luck getting one to work for the other.

 

 

 

Dane,

 

I've done way more skiing than ice climbing this year, however, unless I'm not quite understanding you, my Petzl Sarkens fit on my Garmont Adrenalins without any modifications. Essentially, just adjusted the length and they could go between my adrenalins and batura's. Or did I miss your point?

 

As far as to contribute to the original question, La Sportiva Baturas + Petzl Dartwins = close but not quite fit. Regardless, my toe bail has been hammered enough to fit well and I've never had a performance issue noticable by my meager standards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"Essentially, just adjusted the length and they could go between my adrenalins and batura's. Or did I miss your point?"

 

That is the way it is suppose to work. I've not used a Garmont boot but the La Sportiva line of boots is generally easy to fit other than some in really small sizes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dane - good topic and worth discussing. It made me trawl through my memory. FWIW, here's some data points:

 

1983 - original Koflach Ultras with 1st gen clip-on Stubai Tirols: perfect fit despite the fact that the Ultras didn't even have a pronounced lip for clip-ons. This combo got me through the next 7 years and never ever came off.

 

Early-mid 90s - About 6 pairs of Asolo Expeditions or the orange 101s matched with footfangs and then Charlet Moser Black Ices. Again perfect fit.

 

Late 90s - Scarpa Vegas (aka Invernos) with Black Ices and BD Switchblades. Black Ices were perfect fit but S'blades had a bit of play but worked without any problems.

 

2000 - present

Lowa Civettas with G12s/Rambocomps. Both good fit. Not a great fit with S'blades but okay.

Trango Extremes with Rambocomps. Good fit but fiddly.

Old green Olympus Mons with old G12s. Bad fit and needed different bale.

Yellow Oly Mons with French-style G14s. Poor fit. Only time I've used the strap bale at the front and I did not like it.

Oly Mons with new Sabertooth clip-on. Good fit.

 

What this tells me is that I've had more trouble fitting crampons in the last 10 years than I had in the previous 17.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd be tempted to say the fit could be a little tighter between my Nepal Evo (43) and Petzl M10. I also think curved linkbars would do good for the overall fit. Still don't have 'em though.

 

Evo-M10.jpg

 

 

Edited by pyyno

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pyyno?! I catch your meaning on that heel fit. It's not great.

 

What this tells me is that I've had more trouble fitting crampons in the last 10 years than I had in the previous 17.

 

Glad it aint just me! Funny that..as I have had the exact same experience ;)

 

Thanks for the feed back genetlemen.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2009 BD Sabertooth with Lowa Mountain Experts 42

sorry for crappy pics

 

cfrnt_.jpgcrampbk.jpg

 

notice no rattles or shifting. Center bar firm. 2 front pegs and rear plugs are jammed against the sole with no play, though small gaps visible between sole and crampon. Next time after wearing them in-situ for a while I'll take a pic-my recollection is that the minor gaps are eliminated after a bit of walking pressure--most of the time I have to unstrap, unbail, and absolutely pry/kick them against something to get them to pop off.

to me it seems a great fit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×