LowLife Posted November 20, 2010 Posted November 20, 2010 Trip: Yosemite Valley, Cali - Lost Arrow, Half Dome, Da Schnoz, Others... Date: 9/8/2010 Trip Report: Been creeping around cc.com ever since I relocated back to WA from Montana a year and a half ago, figured I'd finally try posting something. These are just some pics and highlights from my fall season this year in the Valley. Mostly my partner Brett M. and I were there to get our gumby on while figurin' out how to do some big walls. I doubt I can relay a single bit of info on the climbs that isn't better expressed in the SuperTaco books and countless other places online, so I'll just try to get some photos on this thing. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1030076.jpg[/img] Brett following the pitch before the notch on Lost Arrow Direct. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1040094.jpg[/img] Jugging over the lip on the Lost Arrow summit. Wicked top out! [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1040090.jpg[/img] "Self photo" on the LA spire. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1040111.jpg[/img] Rapping back to the LA notch. The rap route back to the deck was pretty straightforward. Which was good cause we were whooped after a 4 day grudge match in the sun spent learning how to haul, penji, lower out, etc., not to mention other important wall skills like how to run out of water, how to climb/aid/flail you're way up awkward and scary granite flares while wearing the aid rack, and figure out the most comfy way to spoon with chihuahua sized wall rats. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1090147.jpg[/img] Rest day stoke a couple days after LA direct. When the water isn't running, there is a bad ass granite swimming pool at the base of the Upper Falls that is the single best place to drink cheap malt liquor whilst lounging in the sun that I have yet to find in the Valley. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1120152.jpg[/img] Took the new ledge (Thanks Russ!) for a spin on the Regular NW Face route on Half Dome. This is the plush lazy man's setup on Big Sandy Ledge at pitch 17. Note: When everybody (including the book) says not to haul on this route, listen to 'em, cause it's bloody awful. The one upside? If you can successfully get a multi-day pig to the top of this rig, you'll have earned your hauling merit badge and are ready to haul on just about anything down there. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1120155.jpg[/img] Fixing on the Zig Zags at sunset. That alpenglow shore is purdy. Just a few hours after this we got to watch Big Wall Dave and his buddy Josh (local valley badasses), fly by us at Big Sandy on a speed run. When I asked 'em when they started, they casually replied, "about an hour and a half ago". They were on their way to link Mt. Watkins that same night (all of it by starlight and headlamp) when Dave proceeded to take a 50 footer at the top of the Zig Zags and broke his ankle, and ended up sleeping on top and hobbling out the next day. Just a wicked effort. We were like sloppy junk show RV tourists stacked up next to guys of that caliber. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1120156.jpg[/img] Third and final day on Half Dome. Thank God Ledge is outrageous. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1160165.jpg[/img] Brett at pitch 5 on a free climbing day on the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. One of the most fun routes I've done in the Valley. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1190193.jpg[/img] My sorry tent during the first big storm of the season. Camp 4 was like a flooded out refugee site for the better part of a week. Nothing for a dirtbag to do but stock up on six-packs of Cobras and hide out in one of the valley's many dry and warm indoor locations usually reserved for varying types of paying customers. As a side note, I think my favorite Camp 4 moment of the trip was when we were sorting gear in the parking lot after climbing for the day and Bridwell walked by. We looked over and realized who it was just as he crushed the can he was drinking, threw it over his shoulder into the parking lot, and laughed at us while he said, "That thing is worth 5 cents, I know you want it!" We both just about died laughing. We must've looked like shit, cause we had just been called out for being dirtbags by the Bird himself! [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1160158.jpg[/img] The Cap'n from Middle Cathedral just before the storm. After the rain cleared, I teamed up with Shayd from Mammoth, who had been poaching his buddy's SAR site cabin, and we shoved off on the Nose the morning it stopped raining. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1230209.jpg[/img] Shayd starting pitch 2 on the Nose. Hmm, that's a long ways to go, sure hope we brought enough whiskey. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/173581_9969_L.jpg[/img] Ledge party on El Cap Tower. Three parties of two shared the ledge that night. We were able to fix all the way through the King Swing before we bivied here, which I thought worked out pretty well. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/IMG_3562.jpg[/img] This is a Tom Evans shot of us in the Grey Bands. That man is lethal with a zoom lens. Thanks Tom! [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1260220.jpg[/img] Kickin' off the Great Roof pitch. Gotta love that lightweight alpine rack. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1260223.jpg[/img] Da Roof. We had just been passed by the only NIAD party that we would see. Brave Aussies, cause I think they busted thru about 10 parties by the time they got to us. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1260241.jpg[/img] The poop tube watches over the human zoo converging in the gray bands below. For about 5 days after the storm, the Nose roughly resembled one of the battle scenes in Braveheart. Fortunately, we were able to stay one step ahead of the hoards for the duration of the climb. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1260227.jpg[/img] Shayd on the Pancake Flake. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1260259.jpg[/img] Just before Camp V. We ended up hanging the ledge at the Glowering Spot that night (a pitch below camp VI), which ended up being a pretty sweet bivy. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1270287.jpg[/img] Shayd stoked to be close to the top on day 4. Those cars are gettin' pretty small. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1270291.jpg[/img] Aider flappin' in the breeze on the final bolt ladder pitch. Long ways down. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1270303.jpg[/img] Shayd jugging over the lip. Now all we have to do is ride the chairlift back to the valley. Wait, what, there's actually no chairlift? East ledges descent with heavy bags?! Was this in the Park brochure? Aww, f@#% me! [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1270305.jpg[/img] Looking up river towards Half Dome from the top of the Captain. Topped out a little after two on our fourth day on the wall, and made it back for beer and chili at the Mountain Room Bar just before nine. Sweet! All in all, had a great fall bouncing off the walls in Yosemite. Our monkey asses had a blast livin' dirty, climbing in the sunshine, swoopin' leftovers from the cafeteria (oops, did I say that out loud? I mean that never happened...), and learning a ton. We stayed healthy, and I was even able to walk away with three walls and a bunch of great free climbing - bonus! Huge thanks to all the people that mentored us along the way, all the friends who shared climbing, campfires, and cheap beer, and all the rest of the characters who make the Valley such a great place to hang out and climb rocks! Gear Notes: Many, many sixers of King Cobras. Oh yeah, and a couple haul bags worth of way-too-expensive nylon and metal crap. Approach Notes: 1990 4Runner from Missoula, MT Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted November 20, 2010 Posted November 20, 2010 kudos! that is getting some stuff done or what! Quote
swezeyt Posted November 20, 2010 Posted November 20, 2010 Nice work. Thanks for the great trip report. Quote
danhelmstadter Posted November 20, 2010 Posted November 20, 2010 wow, cool stuff! the part about you guys being called out as dirtbags is halarious. Quote
YocumRidge Posted November 20, 2010 Posted November 20, 2010 Ha, Phil, that's awesome! High Life for sure. Thanks for the great TR. Quote
curtveld Posted November 21, 2010 Posted November 21, 2010 Awesome! Will probably get you nominated for 2010 CC.com awards in two categories: 1. Best second post, and 2. Best ‘encounter with a legend’ story. Quote
Captain panther Posted November 21, 2010 Posted November 21, 2010 fucking bitchin dude! lookin forward to swingin some tools and skiing with you this winter! Quote
markwebster Posted December 1, 2010 Posted December 1, 2010 I'd have to agree Phil, for your second post ever...amazing! I knew when I first met you a couple years ago you were going places. It's been a pleasure climbing with you around the northwest. Here's to many more trips! Quote
OlympicMtnBoy Posted December 1, 2010 Posted December 1, 2010 Sweet, sounds like fun. I'm jealous as I only got 5 days down there this year! Quote
LowLife Posted December 3, 2010 Author Posted December 3, 2010 Here's to many more trips! Here's to that, Mark! Couldn't have asked for a better partner to introduce me to WA climbing. You've been a great mentor. Looking forward to many trips to come! Quote
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