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LowLife

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  1. Last minute shout out to offer a ride from Missoula to the valley on Sunday, September 29. It's just me, so just split some gas and maybe driving if you can drive a manual. Skip school, go climbing! Four oh six, 581 - two five eight one - Phil
  2. -September 29ish (I'm flexible by a few days) -Yosemite -Missoula, MT -Just me, have room for one more, could maybe do two (it'd be tight, but could probably get it done) -1988 Saab 900 Turbo, baby! Heading down one way and will be there for most of October. Back to Seattle probably no later than Oct. 25th. One of the best months in the Valley awaits, split some gas on the way, could even climb something when we get there! C'mon fellow Montuckians!
  3. I've got two separate 8 day stretches in August and am looking to hit the Bugs on one of them and the Winds on the other. Not really picky about the order. I live in Hamilton, MT south of Missoula, so could potentially pick you up in Missoula for Bugs, and Bozeman for Winds. I've got rack and ropes, just can't find anyone with that much time right now. More than happy to put up anything up to .10s/maybe low .11s, and follow/get thrashed on anything harder. Would love to get the Beckey/Chouinard, but am up for just about anything. I'll be in the Sawtooths this week, but I'll check this when I get out next week.
  4. Sawtooths anyone? Right now we've got three including Fred, who was hoping for four. Would really help with hauling gear. Heading up to Elephants Perch. Should be pretty low key, probably just aiming for mountaineers route, but would probably be able to sneak in a day or two of something harder if you were up for it. We're planning on meeting in Hamilton, MT on the evening of the 16th. C'mon, come steal some napkins with the man and hang out in the mountains. You know you want to...
  5. Ha, awesome! That reminds me of the Dirtbag Diaries bit about the Disneyland climbers who used to get paid to climb on that thing: Matterhorn
  6. Trip: Mt. Rainier - Gib Ledges Date: 2/4/2012 Trip Report: Big high pressure meant a mad dash for the mountain on Friday morning. Stayed at the shelter Friday night, left from Muir at 3:30 am and topped out at 11:30 am. The weather was damn pleasant on the upper mountain. The route was in great shape, with variable snow but predominantly nice styrofoam for most of the climb. Sure felt nice to have to throw sunscreen on in February. Pics: Sunrise from the Ledges. Dan with the Nisqually Ice Cliff on his right. The top of Gib chute. Saddle between Gib rock and the mountain. Just as the route joins the upper DC/ID, Lil' T in the background. Obligatory summit shot. Thanks to the two skiers we met up top for taking this! Also of note, I'll bet my pants in this photo look more like General Patton's than your's do. This is my "I can't believe I just slogged up this damn thing again and now I've gotta slog back down too" face. On the way back through Cadaver Gap. Looking up from Ingraham Flats. Thanks to Dan E. for a great trip. The rest of the Cascades were lookin' good dressed in their winter whites - hope everyone got out to enjoy them over the weekend! Gear Notes: Standard glacier kit. This is the second time I've brought a 2nd tool up the Ledges, and haven't used it. One axe will do ya just fine. Approach Notes: We brought slowshoes for the approach to Muir. Don't do this. Learn to ski. And if anyone catches me with those damned things on my feet again, please, slap me.
  7. The Torres are burning! What a season down there, I can barely keep up with all this. Between the events themselves and the varied reactions of several generations of climbers, this has been one helluva fascinating week. Look forward to a little time passing and hearing full disclosure from all those involved.
  8. Great tr Mark! Just awesome. So glad you had another stellar trip to the desert this year. You got some amazing shots down there! Also, you're definitely right, most often it seems to be the people you spend time with and the stories they tell that make climbing so damn hard to stay away from. Nice work!
  9. That is one sweet lookin' piece of ice. Seeing a tr like that sure makes it tough to show up at the office the next day! Strong work up there, and thanks for sharing some serious stoke!
  10. Kirkpatrick has a great site (anyone ever look through his book about pins? I've always been curious). I think Chris McNamara's online guide is also extremely helpful, at least it has been for me: How To Big Wall Climb I haven't used a silent partner (would like to, i'm usually just too much of a broke ass), but a gri-gri seems to work just fine, and is cheaper too.
  11. Trip: The Cap'n - Mescalito Date: 9/7/2011 Trip Report: So, after chewing on the idea since about this time last year, I was finally able to crawl my way up Mescalito for my first solo on the Big Stone. Total time on the wall was 12 days, with a day hiking loads to the base, and a day and a half getting the loads back down. I was slow, it was scary, there were storms, and soloing 26 pitches was a ton of work, but hands down it was one of the best adventures I've ever had. 'Nuff said, here's some photos: [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GBmfVAg7pug/TouyKJSWOLI/AAAAAAAAAAs/jnwXxI-DDKU/s800/DSC_0084.jpg[/img] My dad and I in the meadow pre-climb. My folks were able to come down for a few days while I was gearing up and starting the climb. I was worried this might freak them out, but now my dad wants to do a wall next year! How cool is that? Mescalito shoots right up the wall between the Nose and North America. [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QpajIh4kZaM/TouyJUeb3xI/AAAAAAAAAAo/zdHxkrBZWN0/s800/DSC_0074.jpg[/img] Packing the bags in the meadow and getting ready to hike loads. 5 trips in all to the base, thank god this wasn't the Half Dome approach. [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hmnaH7V9Zgg/Tou03suQwoI/AAAAAAAAABk/SsUhLWmcCzo/s800/IMGP0438.jpg[/img] Mmm, wall food. I was worried the spam might get old, but it really just got better and better as the climb went on. [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pkaGq3aGefs/TouyUjNYQ5I/AAAAAAAAABY/wZDghzD5kUw/s800/DSC_0407.jpg[/img] Hauling the first pitch. 3 to 1 hauling sucks, by the way. Won't be doing that in the future. [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-NswnxMhVUKg/TouyPW1PCDI/AAAAAAAAABA/A6VSxZGpbUk/s800/IMGP1241.jpg[/img] "Hmm, what the hell am I getting myself into?" [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Fo9d8Zjob4g/TouyVRBP7XI/AAAAAAAAABc/sr_Y6aXcjmA/s800/DSC_0421.jpg[/img] I'm in the bottom left, pondering just how far I have to go. [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-OkChhoG4A2c/TouyQHvSwiI/AAAAAAAAABE/zVPbtnZkakE/s800/IMGP1258.jpg[/img] Lotta rock, lotta air. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X9BTpuAkc8M/Tou053giUhI/AAAAAAAAABw/VlpMwSvTUxA/s800/IMGP0468.jpg[/img] This is right after I finally got a piece in following a 20 foot whipper into a pendulum swing when I tried to lower out on the seagull pitch (shoulda penji-ed). Self belays are exciting! [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pxwGZrQcq9o/Tou06qfCnuI/AAAAAAAAAB0/iW8vyYUBVtk/s800/IMGP0482.jpg[/img] Lounging in the evening, the best part of wall climbing. The East wall of El Cap looms over you (and eventually under you) for the duration of Mescalito. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bTPSSqCp2uc/Tou07pS_CKI/AAAAAAAAAB4/wTzGtBp8y-c/s800/IMGP0483.jpg[/img] Mornin' light on the Dawn Wall. Helluva start to every day. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ha5LfiliMbc/Tou08iBn9MI/AAAAAAAAAB8/OBjQtktkUaA/s800/IMGP0487.jpg[/img] Flagging the ledge is sweet. So is free-hanging hauling. At this point I was back to 1 to 1 hauling for the rest of the climb. [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z9bxgLJ9rGg/Tou0-tVlkFI/AAAAAAAAACI/U71ALwxcdHU/s800/IMGP0552.jpg[/img] That wall is sheer! [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wMBrCfRZ9HY/Tou1A7IQZDI/AAAAAAAAACU/SJcc4XJcRYg/s800/IMGP0561.jpg[/img] Here it comes. Thunderstorms kept hitting me for my first week up there. It was frustrating to keep having to set up the ledge fly and take shelter, but I sure was glad to have it on several occasions. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2i-lMnYYgFE/Tou1BfAEuaI/AAAAAAAAACY/woYk5LjFmqs/s800/Nose%252520Storm%252520Panorama.jpg[/img] Right after the big one hit. The wind was blowing so hard up the face that it lifted the portaledge with me on it several times! Grab the straps and surf it out! The guys on El Cap Tower in this photo got caught out in it and had a wet and cold night as a result, but dried out in the morning and finished the Nose in good style (nice work guys!). [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cgBoa-Yd9K8/Touv-rQvmLI/AAAAAAAAAAY/1GllGo0DF4Y/s800/IMG_6509.jpg[/img] Tom Evans is a stud for taking photos of everyone up there. This is two pitches below the Bismark. [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2ilQfykrdF0/Tou1EPiH9mI/AAAAAAAAACo/N40WScdLJ_E/s800/IMGP0640.jpg[/img] Gotta love it when they're half way out of the wall. [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JZutwYwpL1I/Tou1AFb7j9I/AAAAAAAAADo/7cLotqCija4/s800/IMGP0559.jpg[/img] This pretty much sums up how I felt about standing on that and the other ones like it. [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7zMt-nAY-VE/Touv_7nX65I/AAAAAAAAAAc/FWG5zbBOoWU/s800/IMG_6661.jpg[/img] The Bismark. This is one of the best places I've ever been to. [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G_eYVH9nhuw/Tou1E4roUNI/AAAAAAAAACs/x11OwRKFymQ/s800/IMGP0664.jpg[/img] Dangling the feet off a ledge like this one just never gets old for me. Three pitches to the top from here. [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-U0k7NKUACdc/Tou1F_MTHZI/AAAAAAAAACw/94rk6arVEEo/s800/IMGP0678.jpg[/img] One of the final bag lower-outs. Gettin' close. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-IvzN1ozfKQ0/Tou1KZYYAzI/AAAAAAAAADA/7gCHBH6KsFE/s800/IMGP0693.jpg[/img] Looking down from the final pitch. Ridiculous drop. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z6NGnJ4tvh4/TouxrRIoM_I/AAAAAAAAAAg/qm-pCNz_xQg/s800/IMG_7187.jpg[/img] On the headwall, just below the top. Not a bad place to find yourself on a sunny morning. [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xZlHKL619LM/Tou1LO5kKaI/AAAAAAAAADE/gFxTrksgDao/s800/Mescalito%252520Summit%252520Panorama.jpg[/img] The view of the East wall is great from here. You can really see just how overhung that thing is. Zodiac this winter anyone? [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1ilaQfPMlIw/Tou1OR7MGeI/AAAAAAAAADQ/clPRV0502hU/s800/IMGP0705.jpg[/img] Dirty. Tired. Sore. Fired up! On top of it all, 26 pitches later. I hit the unroping spot with all the gear at 2 pm on the 12th day of climbing. Hiked loads down to a bivy spot above the fixed lines on the East Ledges and stayed there. I arrived at the 4Runner (which was thankfully unmolested by any bears after two weeks) in the early afternoon the next day, and spent the rest of the week sunning myself in the meadows and drinking beer (just in time for Facelift week and its refillable beer mug and slideshows in the evenings!), living like a marmot. Big thanks to all those who lent me gear, especially Tom, Dan E., Brett M., and Ben S. - you guys rock. Also, huge thanks to all my climbing partners and mentors, I could never have dreamed of tackling a project like this without you. Big thanks as well to Remote Medical International for letting me off the leash for a full three week window to get this done - you guys are awesome! Massive respect for the first ascensionists on this one too - Porter, Sutton, Burton, and Nelson putting this rig up in the early 70's, and in the style they did, is bad ass on a level I'll never know. All in all, it was a hell of a trip. I learned a ton, and was able to enjoy one of the best adventures I've ever had. I couldn't ask for a better way to say farewell to my 20's. Yosemite is such an inspiring and humbling place to climb, and it only seems to grow with every visit. As always, I can't wait to get back, and look forward to the future. Now who's up for the Shield?! Gear Notes: I went with the full supertopo recommended rack, but didn't touch the iron once. Don't even take a leader's hammer, just one for the second to clean with. It's a bunch of offset cams, offset nuts, and some hooks. If I can do it clean (I'm no aid master), anyone can. Approach Notes: It doesn't get any easier than the Captain. The descent still sucks though, especially if you have to double carry the whole thing.
  12. Colin, it was great meeting you, and a really fun climb. You took some awesome photos, thanks man! Phil
  13. This is hands down the best tr I've ever read on cc. Awesome! That last pic is very reminiscent of your average tabloid shot of Lindsay Yoehan, err, I mean Lohan.
  14. Good work up there. Sweet photos, too. Had fun hiking up there with you guys on saturday!
  15. Is that the REI warehouse in Sumner?
  16. Awesome! This story always cracked me up, glad to see some actual photos of that damned lawn chair. Not a much of a convenient fold-up size or shape, was it? Hilarious! Great pics, and solid work guys.
  17. Those are some great shots. Way to rock the hyalite cabin, love that place! Good work gettin' after it.
  18. Solid work and sweet pics! Way to push through the tough conditions, looks like santa got ya some steep postholin' for x-mas! Makes my lump of coal seem kinda nice...
  19. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/PB030085.jpg[/img] With Mito up on Adams. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/PC070064.jpg[/img] With Emily M. on Forbidden.
  20. Gotta throw it out there for Alex Lowe - every time I go to Hyalite I'm amazed at what he accomplished in that canyon alone (with leashes, dammit!). The guy also had just about the best attitude in the history of climbing. Others: -Pat Callis, and the rest of the Dirty Sox Club (I think Fred gets a nod here too), the old-school Montana guys were tough as nails -Stan Price, still tearin' it up too, especially in the 'Tooths -Mark Twight, I still love his writing and his drive -Barry Blanchard -Steve House -Also, Michael Kennedy and George Lowe, I always thought Infinite Spur and Latok I were just unbelievable.
  21. And, who knows, those could be the best two, five, ten, and so on years of your life. You can never know where an adventure will take you, that's what makes it an adventure. Whatever you do, don't stick around here just because it's "what you're supposed to do", or from fear of losing security now or later on. I think one of the greatest legacies that Chouinard and the rest of his generation of climbers left us is the idea that you can still find true adventure in today's world. It's actually pretty darn accessible, you just gotta sack up and go get it. And yup, something bad could happen along the way (like not making any money, ha!), just like something bad might happen if you choose to stick around here and go to school. But it sure sounds like you're itchin' to "feed the rat", so make a plan and commit, get after it, and send some photos and some stoke back to the rest of us stuck up here in traffic on I-5!
  22. Here's to that, Mark! Couldn't have asked for a better partner to introduce me to WA climbing. You've been a great mentor. Looking forward to many trips to come!
  23. Trip: Yosemite Valley, Cali - Lost Arrow, Half Dome, Da Schnoz, Others... Date: 9/8/2010 Trip Report: Been creeping around cc.com ever since I relocated back to WA from Montana a year and a half ago, figured I'd finally try posting something. These are just some pics and highlights from my fall season this year in the Valley. Mostly my partner Brett M. and I were there to get our gumby on while figurin' out how to do some big walls. I doubt I can relay a single bit of info on the climbs that isn't better expressed in the SuperTaco books and countless other places online, so I'll just try to get some photos on this thing. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1030076.jpg[/img] Brett following the pitch before the notch on Lost Arrow Direct. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1040094.jpg[/img] Jugging over the lip on the Lost Arrow summit. Wicked top out! [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1040090.jpg[/img] "Self photo" on the LA spire. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1040111.jpg[/img] Rapping back to the LA notch. The rap route back to the deck was pretty straightforward. Which was good cause we were whooped after a 4 day grudge match in the sun spent learning how to haul, penji, lower out, etc., not to mention other important wall skills like how to run out of water, how to climb/aid/flail you're way up awkward and scary granite flares while wearing the aid rack, and figure out the most comfy way to spoon with chihuahua sized wall rats. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1090147.jpg[/img] Rest day stoke a couple days after LA direct. When the water isn't running, there is a bad ass granite swimming pool at the base of the Upper Falls that is the single best place to drink cheap malt liquor whilst lounging in the sun that I have yet to find in the Valley. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1120152.jpg[/img] Took the new ledge (Thanks Russ!) for a spin on the Regular NW Face route on Half Dome. This is the plush lazy man's setup on Big Sandy Ledge at pitch 17. Note: When everybody (including the book) says not to haul on this route, listen to 'em, cause it's bloody awful. The one upside? If you can successfully get a multi-day pig to the top of this rig, you'll have earned your hauling merit badge and are ready to haul on just about anything down there. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1120155.jpg[/img] Fixing on the Zig Zags at sunset. That alpenglow shore is purdy. Just a few hours after this we got to watch Big Wall Dave and his buddy Josh (local valley badasses), fly by us at Big Sandy on a speed run. When I asked 'em when they started, they casually replied, "about an hour and a half ago". They were on their way to link Mt. Watkins that same night (all of it by starlight and headlamp) when Dave proceeded to take a 50 footer at the top of the Zig Zags and broke his ankle, and ended up sleeping on top and hobbling out the next day. Just a wicked effort. We were like sloppy junk show RV tourists stacked up next to guys of that caliber. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1120156.jpg[/img] Third and final day on Half Dome. Thank God Ledge is outrageous. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1160165.jpg[/img] Brett at pitch 5 on a free climbing day on the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. One of the most fun routes I've done in the Valley. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1190193.jpg[/img] My sorry tent during the first big storm of the season. Camp 4 was like a flooded out refugee site for the better part of a week. Nothing for a dirtbag to do but stock up on six-packs of Cobras and hide out in one of the valley's many dry and warm indoor locations usually reserved for varying types of paying customers. As a side note, I think my favorite Camp 4 moment of the trip was when we were sorting gear in the parking lot after climbing for the day and Bridwell walked by. We looked over and realized who it was just as he crushed the can he was drinking, threw it over his shoulder into the parking lot, and laughed at us while he said, "That thing is worth 5 cents, I know you want it!" We both just about died laughing. We must've looked like shit, cause we had just been called out for being dirtbags by the Bird himself! [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1160158.jpg[/img] The Cap'n from Middle Cathedral just before the storm. After the rain cleared, I teamed up with Shayd from Mammoth, who had been poaching his buddy's SAR site cabin, and we shoved off on the Nose the morning it stopped raining. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1230209.jpg[/img] Shayd starting pitch 2 on the Nose. Hmm, that's a long ways to go, sure hope we brought enough whiskey. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/173581_9969_L.jpg[/img] Ledge party on El Cap Tower. Three parties of two shared the ledge that night. We were able to fix all the way through the King Swing before we bivied here, which I thought worked out pretty well. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/IMG_3562.jpg[/img] This is a Tom Evans shot of us in the Grey Bands. That man is lethal with a zoom lens. Thanks Tom! [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1260220.jpg[/img] Kickin' off the Great Roof pitch. Gotta love that lightweight alpine rack. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1260223.jpg[/img] Da Roof. We had just been passed by the only NIAD party that we would see. Brave Aussies, cause I think they busted thru about 10 parties by the time they got to us. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1260241.jpg[/img] The poop tube watches over the human zoo converging in the gray bands below. For about 5 days after the storm, the Nose roughly resembled one of the battle scenes in Braveheart. Fortunately, we were able to stay one step ahead of the hoards for the duration of the climb. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1260227.jpg[/img] Shayd on the Pancake Flake. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1260259.jpg[/img] Just before Camp V. We ended up hanging the ledge at the Glowering Spot that night (a pitch below camp VI), which ended up being a pretty sweet bivy. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1270287.jpg[/img] Shayd stoked to be close to the top on day 4. Those cars are gettin' pretty small. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1270291.jpg[/img] Aider flappin' in the breeze on the final bolt ladder pitch. Long ways down. [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1270303.jpg[/img] Shayd jugging over the lip. Now all we have to do is ride the chairlift back to the valley. Wait, what, there's actually no chairlift? East ledges descent with heavy bags?! Was this in the Park brochure? Aww, f@#% me! [img:center]http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy320/philwesseler/Climbing%202010/P1270305.jpg[/img] Looking up river towards Half Dome from the top of the Captain. Topped out a little after two on our fourth day on the wall, and made it back for beer and chili at the Mountain Room Bar just before nine. Sweet! All in all, had a great fall bouncing off the walls in Yosemite. Our monkey asses had a blast livin' dirty, climbing in the sunshine, swoopin' leftovers from the cafeteria (oops, did I say that out loud? I mean that never happened...), and learning a ton. We stayed healthy, and I was even able to walk away with three walls and a bunch of great free climbing - bonus! Huge thanks to all the people that mentored us along the way, all the friends who shared climbing, campfires, and cheap beer, and all the rest of the characters who make the Valley such a great place to hang out and climb rocks! Gear Notes: Many, many sixers of King Cobras. Oh yeah, and a couple haul bags worth of way-too-expensive nylon and metal crap. Approach Notes: 1990 4Runner from Missoula, MT
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